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DIARY OF A PHYSICIAN 



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CALIFORNIA; 



THE EESULTS OF ACTUAL EXPEEIENCE, 



NOTES OF THE JOURNEY 

BY LAND AND WATER, 



observati(5ns on the climate, soil, resources of 
the country, etc. 



BY JAMES L. TYSON, M.D. 




NEW YOEE: 
D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 200 BROADWAY. 

PHILADELPHIA: 

G. S. APPLETON, 164 CHESNUT-STREET. 
1850. 



J. 



\- F fe.5~ 
■T97 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1850, 

By D. APPLETON & COMPANY, ^ 

In the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. 



r'\<l; 




CONTENTS. 



Introductory Ch-^pter 1 



CHAPTER I. -page 

Departure. — ^The Captain's Guess. — A Chase. — Leave the Capes. — Ludicrous 
Scenes. — Discussion of different Routes. — The Delights of California. — Deter- 
mine to go to Chagres. — A Man overboard. — Terrible Scene. — A Sabbath 
Morning. — Amusing Occurrence. — Delightful Atmosphere. — Land ho ! — Pass 
tlu-ough the "Caicos" Passage. — A Squall. — Pass through the Windward 
Passage. — Pleasant Views and Spicy Breezes. — Awful Explosion. — Delicious 
Climate. — A Demonstration. — Sharks and Nautili. — Mountains of the Isth- 
mus. — Terrible Fright. — Cast Anchor. — Dangers of the Entrance to Chagres . ] 1 

<. - CHAPTER II. 

Chagres. — Natives. — Tlieir Indolence. — Effects of Climate. — Fertility. — Start 
for Gorgona. — Native Boatmen. — Profuse Vegetation. — Beautiful Scenery. — 
Uprpar and Confusion. — Packing in Canoes. — Night Scene on Chagres River. 
— A Sick Man. — Brilliant Morning. — Alligators. — Breakfast. — Hot Ride. — 
Arrive at Gorgona. — Avaricious Natives. — Pandemonium. — Start for Pana- 
ma. — A Mule Ride across the Isthmus of Darien. — Beautiful Sunset. — Arrive 
at Panama 19 

CHAPTER III. 

Engage passage for San Francisco. — British bark "John Ritson." — -Airange- 
ments and Accommodations. — Appointed Surgeon. — Send for Friends. — De- 
vout Catholics. — Description of Panama. — Picturesque Ruins. — Romantic 
Shower-Bath. — Priests. — Effects of Separation from Spain. — Markets. — 
Fruits. — Panama Fever. — Its cause. — How avoided. — Arrival of Friends. — 
Critical Situation. — Adieu to Panama. — Pelicans. — Fishes. — Joyous Anticipa- 
tions. — Anchor off Taboga. — Beauty of the Pearl Islands 26 

CHAPTER IV. 

Passengers Ashore. — Extinct Volcano. — Fight with a Boa Constrictor. — A 
Wounded Man. — Part company with a Lady and Gentleman. — Return a 
Sick Man to Panama. — Town of Taboga. — An Enchanting Spot. — Fruits. — 
Sickness on Board. — Wliales. — Unpleasant Ihcidcnt. — Weigh Anchor. — An- 
other Man in the Hold.— English Bread- Act.— The Captain and his Mates. — 
A Sail. — Incidents. — A Calm.— Increasing Sickness. — A Death.— Intense 
Heat. — Another Death. — Awful Situation.— Burial at Sea. — Gorgeous Sun- 
set. — More Sickness. — Escape from " the Villainous Hole" , . . . . 31 



COOTTENTS. 



CHAPTER V. Page 

Tranquil Sea. — Fiery Sun and Cloudless Skies. — A Sailing-vessel not adapted to 
the Pacitio. — Change our Course. — Mpiails of Water-Fowls and Fishes. — The 
Porpoise, Grampus, Dolphin, and Devil-Fish. — Coast of Costa Rica. — Milder 
Atmosphere. — Delightful Breezes. — Amusing Licidents. — Off Realejio. — 
Fourth of March. — Shark Supper. — Increasing Heat. — BriUiant Nights. — 
A Death. — Remarkable Coincidences. — Coast of Guatemala. — Repose on the 
Pacific. — Gulf of Tehuantepec. — Coast of Oaxaca. — A Volcano. — Harbor, 
City, and Inhabitants of Acapulco. — Attempt to Sleep Ashore. — A Mexican 
Salute. — Smnptuous Repast. — Ahuost a Battle 37 



CHAPTER VI. 

Weigh Anchor. — An Omen. — Death of " the Old Man." — Calms and Head-Winds. 
— Views of the Coast. — Volcano of Colima. — Cape Corrientes. — Magnificent 
Sunset. — "'Bout Ship." — Gulf of California. — Cliilling Atmosphere. — Its 
Effects. — First View of Lower California. — Cape Pahnas. — Beautiful Scene. 
— Cape St. Lucas. — Halo of Glory. — A Steamer. — Head-Winds and Currents. 
— Cape Falso. — Rugged Coast. — Disagreeable Weather. — Discomforts on 
Board.— Short of Provisions. — Incompetency of the Captain 43 



CHAPTER VII. 

Our Sensations on a First View of Alta California. — Dismal Appearance of the 
Coast. — Fogs. — An Incident and a Luxury. — Coast between Saint Louia 
Obispo and San Miguel. — Proposition for an Enterprise. — High Sea. — A 
Beautiful Sight. — A Gale. — Liquid Fire. — Ocean in Flames. — Amusing Oc- 
currences. — Point Pinos. — Pleasant Weather. — Terrific Hail Storm. — A Para- 
dise. — Off the Bay of San Francisco. — The Chrysopyle. — Magnificent Scene. 
— ^Bird Island. — Anchor in the Bay of San Francisco 47 



CHAPTER VIII. 

A Town of Wood and Muslin. — Deserted Ships. — California Prices. — A Scuffle 
to get on Shore. — Famished Voyagers. — High-Pressiue System. — Blasphemy, 
Gold, and Gambling. — Camp on Shore. — Desertion of Crew. — Death of Cap- 
tain. — Climate of San Francisco contrasted with Benicia and Sancolito 50 



CHAPTER IX. 

Start for the Sacramento. — Packing in a Launch. — Eating One's Self — Golden 
Rock. — Adventures in Pursuit of Eggs. — Dangerous Situation. — Brothers 
and Sisters. — Straits of Pablo. — Bay of Sonoma. — Straits of Karquines. — 
Sleeping on Board. — Breakfast on Shore. — Reminiscences of Schooner Sov- 
ereign. — A Pleasant Walk. — Ben.icia. — A Naval Station. — Suisan Bay. — A 
Famous City. — Its Advantages to Miners. — Enter the Sacramento. — Appear- 
ance of the Shores. — Slouglis. — Thule jNIarshes. — Nurseries for Disease. — 
Mosquitoes. — Tramp through a California Tliicket. — Barber's Ranch. — A 
Philosopher. — Indian Rancheria. — Wild Geese and Ducks. — Sierra Nevada. — 
Suttersville. — Embarcadero 52 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER X. Page 

Sacramento City. — Overflo\v of the Rivers. — (xold- Washers. — A Curious and 
Motley Crowd. — Successful Miners. — Di.sorgauized State of Society. — A Sin- 
gular Occurrence. — Preparation for the Mines. — Ox Team. — A Start. — Sutter's 
Fort — Sandy I'lain. — Ferry at the American River. — What happened there. 
— Sinclair's Ranch. — Frenuwit's Expedition. — Brilliant Moon. — Bath in Amer- 
ican River. — Its Swiftness. — Lovely Mornuig. — OjjjJressive Heat. — Wild 
Flowers. — Desolate Landscape. — Picturesque Camp. — A Thieving Indian. — 
Coyotes. — Toil-worn Comrades. — Fine Views. — Lonely and Cheerless Scene. 
— What to believe iu California. — Arrival at the Dry Diggings 57 



CHAPTER XI. 

The Gold-Seeker — His Successes and Reverses.— Heat of the Canons. — Rugged 
and Precipitous Passages. — Wliat the Miner must Endure. — Wlio is Com- 
petent for This. — Turning the Streams. — Indians and Oregonians. — Effects 
of Misstatements. — LTnprincipled Scribblers. — Monte Tables. — Groggeries. — 
Sickness of Miners. — Queer Characters. — Roving' Parties. — Oregonians ; their 
Opinions of the Soil, Climate, and Mines of California. — Ghosts of the De- 
parted 61 



CHAPTER XII. 

Start for the Juba. — An Unfruitful Plain. — Oasis in the Desert. — A Romantic 
Dell. — Picturesque Scene. — Bear River. — Johnson's Ranch. — Civilized In- 
dians. — A White Woman. — Indian Cruelties. — Sumptuous Feast. — Bath in 
Bear River. — Intense Heat. — Camping m the Woods. — Coyotes. — Their 
Thieving Propensities. — Shores of the Juba. — Descent to the Stream. — A 
CaUfornia Character. — Disgust of Miners. — Much Gold and Great Mortality. 
— Leave the Juba. — Encounter Digger Inchans. — Camp on Bear River. — 
Animated Scene. — Delightful Morning. — Antelopes and Deer. — Return to 
Camp 65 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Determine to Establi-sh a Tent-Hospital. — Start for the Embarcadero. — Rapid 
Ride. — No Water. — Ox-teams and Miners. — Pleasant Repose. — Arrive at 
Sacramento City. — First News from Home. — Mr. C. — A Yankee Craft. — 
Stray Horse. — Cotton Duck and " Little Fixens." — Lost in the Wilds. — 
Nothing to Eat. — Coyotes. — Antelopes. — Grizzly Bears. — Secluded Passes. 
— Remarkable Rocks. — Volcanic Soil. — Find the Road. — Arrive at Dry 
Diggmgs 6» 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Breaking up Camp. — HiUy Country. — Poor Soil. — A Corral. — Pack-Mules?. — 
Mountain Traveling. — Perilous Passes. — Mulish Propensities. — Sierra Ne- 
vada. — Beautiful Plateau. — Cold Spring. — Elevated Situation. — Mountain 
Scenery. — Extended View. — Building a Hospital. — Sickness of Miner.s. — An 
Arbor. — Disappointed Miners. — Reckless Characters. — Oregonians. — 'Hieir 
Indian Strifes. — Their Gold. — Advantages to Oregon. — Utilitarian Spirit. — 
Departure of Miners. — Reward of Mming. — The Penalty 72 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XV. Page 

Departure. — Deserted Camp. — Descent of Mountain. — Difficult Passes. — A 
Forest on Fire. — Toilsome and Lonely March. — Repose. — Lost Treasure. — 
Horse turned Banker. — Separation. — Bear River. — Hospitals. — Coyotes. — 
Emigrants. — An Arid "Waste. — Feather River. — Lost. — Unpleasant Ride. — 
Agreeable Meeting. — Vernon. — Fremont. — Quails. — An-ive at Sacramento 
City. — Improvements. — Symptoms of Fever. — Ride to Dry Diggings and Re- 
turn. — Sickness. — Embark ou the Sacramento. — Arrive at Sau Francisco. — 
Kind Friends. — Convalescence '75 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Rapid Improvement of San Francisco. — Unsuccessful Miners. — Engage Passage 
on the Steamer. — Erroneous Statements corrected. — Soil, Climate, and Mines 
of California. — Start for Home. — Moonlight on the Bay. — Pleasure and Re- 
gret. — Heavy Fog. — Monterey. — Convention. — Santa Barbara. — Fruits. — 
Agreeable Anticipations. — San Diego. — Steamer California. — Great Mortality. 
— Appointed Surgeon of the Oregon. — Much Sickness. — Arrive at Mazatlan. 
— Magnificent View. — Neatness and Tlu-ift of the City. — A Death. — A Burial. 
— Campo Santo Americano 78 



CHAPTER XVII. 

San Bias. — Sentinel Rocks. — Natives. — A Man Overboard. — A Hurricane. — Sub- 
limity of the Ocean. — A Chaos. — Arrive at Acapulco. — A Mexican Dinner. — 
The Senorita. — Carried by Natives. — Licidents. — Gulf of Tehuantepec. — A 
Gale. — Interesting Occuri-ences. — Seasickness. — Deluging Rains. — A Mono- 
maniac 83 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Bay of Panama. — Beautiful Scene. — Disembarkation. — Panama in the Wet Sea- 
son. — Engage Mules. — Trouble with the Natives. — Start across tlie Isthmus. 
— Rainy Season. — Execrable Passages. — Dark Ravines. — Romantic Defiles. 
— Mountain Torrents. — Miry Beds. — Cargodores. — A Guard. — A Night on 
the Isthmus. — Arrive at Cruces. — New Granadian Honesty. — Justice. — Pun- 
ishment. — Start for Chagres. — River in the Rainy Season. — Gorgona. — Lazy 
Boatmen. — AiTive at Chagres. — A Storm. — The Empire City. — Comfortable 
Accommodations. — Railroad across the Isthmus 87 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Leave Chagres. — Port Royal. — Sunken Ruins. — Kingston. — Coffee Plantations. 
— Vicious Blacks. — " We colored population." — The City. — Its Churches. — 
Railroad. — Curiosity Shops. — Climate. — Markets. — Santa Anna. — Marmoset. 
Return on board. — Leave Jamaica. — Arrive in New York. — Home 90 



INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 



The following narrative was written witli no view to its 
publication. It is merely a compilation from hasty pencilings 
to a friend, made during a voyage to, residence in, and return 
from California. Throughout this time, opportunities were pre- 
sented of witnessing disease under the different forms in which 
it exists, not only on the Isthmus and near the latitude of the 
equator, and in the course of the voyage, but at the mines, 
where the health of so many is sacrificed in the pursuit of gold. 
To those who do not " go down to the sea in ships," and have 
little knowledge of life in California, it may possess some interest. 
It was thought that its publication at this time, might also 
be a means of conveying some hints to the emigrant to that 
distant part of our country, which might in some degree enable 
him to overcome the evils with which he is menaced, not only 
on his passage, but after he has taken up his abode at the mines. 
With this view to its utility, I will compress in as short a 
space as possible, a few directions, many of which, though 
diffused through the narrative, if presented in a separate form, 
will be more accessible, and combine brevity with perspicuity. 

In the first place, I would advise all to remain as short a time 
in Chagres as possible. The exhalations fi-om its malarious 
atmosphere, are extremely prejudicial to the health of the new- 
comer. This I noticed in various instances. Engage a canoe, 
and keep the natives at their work as long as you can, without 
overfatigue at one time. This is indispensable, or you may 
be kept on the river longer than is necessary or desirable. 
Obtain a large canoe if you can, for though your progress will 
be slower, it is infinitely more comfortable than in a smaller one. 
Take as little baggage as possible, and in packages weiglung not 
over fifty pounds. Some provisions may be necessary, sufficient 
for three or four days, though I remarked that a greater dispo- 
sition for fluids than solids is experienced in crossing the 
Isthmus. Avoid drinking much of the water, either of the 
river or mountain streams. They are highly charged with, 
decayed vegetable matter, and are liable to do mischief. Ale, 
claret, or port wine, may be mixed with the water in small 



8 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 

quantities, or substituted as a drink. Avoid brandy or highly 
stimulating liquors. Avoid also the heat of the sun as much as 
possible, and the night air as well as overfatigue while crossing. 

Having arrived at Gorgona or Cruces, which should in no in- 
stance consume more than two days, obtain a mule at once, if 
in the morning, and with your trunk on the back of another, 
start forward with a guide or in the company of others, and you 
can accomplish the journey to Panama by night. Never' at- 
tempt to walk over. Do not intrust your trunk to a native. 
Keep it with you. The dry season, as it is termed, is from the 
latter part of January till May, when the Gorgona route is pref- 
erable. At other times the Cruces road is more desirable. It 
may happen that the dry or rainy season, will occur earlier or 
later. This is sometimes the case. Keep as dry as possible. 

Arrived at Panama, lodgings are readily obtained. Hotels 
and eating-houses abound. Be careful not to indulge freely 
in the fruits of the country. Oranges may be eaten with advan- 
tage in the forepart of the day. The climate of Panama is not 
at all prejudicial to health, if the precautions I have suggested 
be adopted. Where disease has occurred, either there or on the 
way to San Francisco, it has most generally been the conse- 
quence of imprudence. A pleasant morning and evening sea- 
breeze is felt at Panama, which is any thing but inju2'ious. A 
daily bath while there will add much to health and comfort. 

Attention to these hints, will enable all who journey to Cali- 
fornia by this route, to pursue their voyage to San Francisco, 
not only without dread, but with renewed health and vigor. 
Eschew a sailing-vessel. Purchase your ticket in New York before 
starting, and if possible take a cabin passage in the steamer. If in 
the steerage, purchase some stores at Panama, or you may 
repent it. A daily or occasional bath while on the Pacific will 
be attended with much benefit. Do not indulge too freely in 
the fruits at the various stopping-places. 

If your intention be to visit the mines, conveyance can be 
readily had at San Francisco, either to Sacramento City on the 
Sacramento river, or to Stockton on the San Joaquin. I prefer 
the former. Take as little clothing or other incumbrance to the 
mines as possible. A change of underclothing, with one good 
strong suit and your blankets, are all that are necessary. The 
nights are always cool, and the latter can never be dispensed 
with. Provisions, such as the country affords, can be readily 
had at the stores distributed over the country in the vicinity of 
the mines. You may walk or ride thither, as you see proper, 
or the state of your finances will permit. If you get to the 
mines in the spring of the year, go to the " Dry Diggings." 
There is then sufficient water in the little rivulets and mountain 
streams, not only for mining purposes, but for your daily wanta. 
K you arrive in the months of August or September, select a 



INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 9 

bar on one of tlie rivers, and keep possession of it. The bars 
on the north, south, and middle forks of the American Eiver, 
which empties into the Sacramento, have heretofore been 
famous. 1 would prefer the uppei- part of the Juba, where most 
gold has been found, the Mariposa, or Trinity rivers. The two 
latter, however, are not so accessible as the former. 

Having selected your location, stay there. Proper mining 
implements can be obtained, either at Sacramento City or at the 
mines. You will soon become accustomed to the mode of pro- 
ceeding, either with a shovel, pickax, pan, or washer. 

Do not work in the heat of the day. You can accomplish 
'more by working tivo hours in the early morning and the same 
length of time late in the afternoon, and your health will not be 
so liable to suffer from the unaccustomed toil and exposure. 
This relaxation from the stooping posture of the miner is in- 
dispensable, not only to preserve bodily vigor, but as a protec- 
tion from disease. It also affords time for domestic duties in the 
preparation of food, &c., a most important branch of California 
life, as on the quality of this in a great degree depends, not 
only the comfort and health, but the life of the miner. Obtain 
a receipt for making good, not sour bread The exclusive use 
of dried and salted meats is highly prejudicial. It iires the 
blood, and prepares the system for disease, which will soon re- 
sult if its use be persisted in. Some terrible cases of scurvy I 
witnessed from this cause, and much of the sickness at the mines 
results from inattention to this matter. Stewed fruits, pickles, 
and acidulous drinks, should be freely used, if your reliance is 
on salt provisions. In most of the severe cases of disease, and 
in many of the deaths which have occurred at the mines, 
a scorbutic habit prevailed along with the existing com- 
plaint. As this bad condition of the system can be so readily 
avoided, it was strange to mc that it should be so prevalent. 
Men are apt to forget health and every thing in the pursuit of 
gold. The use of a vegetable diet and fresh meat occasionally, 
would be a protection from this scourge, but as such luxuries, 
except the latter at long intervals, could heretofore rarely be ob- 
tained in the mining districts, it becomes necessary to guard 
against it by the means suggested. Cleanliness should never be 
neglected. Frequent bathing will be found of essential benelit. 

With due regard to the foregoing hints, health will rarely 
suffer. Should sickness in ever so mild a form occur, abandon 
labor at once, and gain a higher locality, if in the canons of the 
river. Consult a physician, many of whom are in the neighbor- 
hood of the mines, and keep quiet. Above all, avoid the low, 
marshy, febrile districts on the shores of the Sacramento and 
San Joaquin rivers. 

It may be said that some have paid little regard to health, and 
•adopted no precautions for its preservation, either on the journey 

1* 



10 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 

to California, or during a residence at the mines, and have yet 
returned unscathed. Such instances are rare exceptions. The 
majority who work at the mines, rarely leave with their ac- 
customed health, while much fatal sickness has occurred there. 
I never saw so onany broken-down constitutions as during my brief 
stay in California. And this was generally owing to ignorance 
of, or inattention to, such matters as I have presented. 

The writer never enjoyed better health than while in the 
vicinity of the mines of California. It is true that he was not 
subjected to the same influences as the miner, but others under 
similar circumstances, sickened, and sometimes died. His ex- 
emption from disease, is mainly attributable to care in diet, and 
avoidance of such other influences, as prudence and a regard for 
the laws of health require, and which the miner could as readily 
adopt as any other. 

With these remarks he submits the following pages to the 
public. Should their perusal prove of utility to any of the 
thousands who are flocking to our possessions on the Pacific, he 
will be repaid. At all events they will aftbrd to him who stays 
at home, a tolerable idea of what the emigrant to California has 
to endure, not only on his passage thither, but after his arrival, 
in traversing the country, and digging in the mines of the far- 
famed El Dorado. 



DIARY OF A PHYSICIAN 



IN 



CALIFORNIA. 



CHAPTER I, 



Departure. — Tlie Captain's Guess. — A Chase. — Leave the Capes. — Ludicrous 
Scenes. — Discussion of different Routes. — The Delights of California. — Determine 
to go to Chagres. — A Man overboard. — Terrible Scene. — A Sabbath Morning. — 
Amusing Occurrence. — Delightful Atmosphere. — Land ho ! — Pass through the 
" Caicos" Passage. — A Squall. — Pass through the Windward Passage. — Plea.sant 
Views and Spicy Breezes. — Awful Explosion. — Delicious Climate. — A Demon- 
stration. — Sharks and Nautili. — Mountains of the Isthmus. — Terrible Fright. — 
Cast Anchor. — Dangers of the Entrance to Chagres. 

On the ever memorable 16th of January, 18 19, I sailed from Balti- 
more on board the schooner Sovereign, Captain Howard Peterson, master, 
bound for the Brazos, Vera Cruz, or some other yet undetermined port, 
that from thence we might be enabled to reach the distant shores of 
California in the shortest possible time. The passengers numbered fifty, 
all good men and true. Among them were two physicians and a Rev. 
Doctor of the Methodist Episcopal church. 

Before leaving the wharf, where, and on the rigging of the adjacent 
vessels, thousands were congregated to witness our departure, a reverend 
gentleman oHered a prayer for the safe and speedy guidance of our little 
craft over the trackless waters. On concluding, he turned to our captain, 
who was a regular down-easter from the " Bay state," and though a 
good fellow, was something of an original, and expressed the hope that 
he who held the winds and waves, would guide our vessel to her port. 
To this the captain, with a most serio-comic expression of face, replied, 
that he guessed there would be no danger about that I The solemnity 
which seemed to pervade the assembly vanished at this odd speech, and a 
shout of laughter arose on all sides, the reverend gentleman himself not 
being proof against the infection ; in the midst of which M'e bade adieu 
to friends, slipped our cable, and dropped down the stream. Cheer on 
cheer greeted us, as the tide bore us past the wharves, whicli of course 
was returned with due strength of lungs. We had no sooner got fairly 
under way, than a signal from the shore, and the appearance of two 
boats rapidly rowing after us, induced the captain to take in his sails, 
and cast anchor about midway between the city and Fort McHenry. 



12 DISCUSSION OF DIFFERENT ROUTES. 

We soon ascertained that two passengers, whose luggage was already 
on board, were absent, and in about half an hour the gentlemen them- 
selves climbed over the side of the vessel, nervous and excited at the 
prospect of being left, but rejoiced that they were now happily on 
board. Very little time elapsed before we were again under way, and 
sailed till two o'clock the following morning, when, owing to the slight 
wind, and the quantity of floating ice, which with the strong current 
was driving us astern, we cast anchor a second time. Towards morn- 
ing, however, we had a fine breeze from a favorable quarter, which 
carried us outside the capes in magnificent style. We passed Cape Henry 
about eleven o'clock, and that afternoon and evening, and the following 
day, the pale faces, and sad, dejected, vinegar-like visages of most of 
the passengers, told but too plainly the tale, that a heavy sea and stiff 
breeze were exacting their accustomed dues from fresh water sailors, and 
oblations, powerful, heaving and running over, were poured out at the 
shrine of Neptune ! To one, who like the writer, was so fortunate as to 
escape the inexorable grip of the old sea-dog, it was ludicrous in the 
extreme to observe the scenes around him. A group would probably be 
seen, laughing and talking most joyously at the misibrtunes of another, 
who was faithfully performing his painful duty over the side of the ves- 
sel, when suddenly a mighty wave would heave her on its crest, and as 
she plimged forward, the aforesaid group would be hurled pell-mell to the 
opposite side, and as they arose from their fallen state, hurriedly seizing 
hold «f the first object that presented, would lean forward in apparently 
the most abject and devout manner, and offer their oM-n sacrifice at the 
shrine they had hitherto ridiculed and contemned I 

We were now fairly out of sight of land, and it became an object of some 
interest and importance to know irliitJier we should go. Li the discus- 
sion which ensued among those whom exemption or recovery from sea- 
sickness permitted to take a part therein, of course, considerable diver- 
sity of opinion prevailed. It was urged by some opposed to the routes 
through Mexico, that if we went by the way of Vera Cruz, we would 
be subjected to a quarantine of fifteen or twenty days, from the fact of 
our having sailed from a port in the United States but two hundred 
miles distant from where the cholera was then prevailing, or even if we 
could be so fortunate as to evade this Mexican regulation, the authori- 
ties at Vera Cruz would never permit an armed party of fifty Americans 
to pass through their territory to the Pacific ; and if we determined 
upon the norther nor Rio Grande route, we would not only have the diffi- 
culties of bad roads, wretched accommodations, and a long travel through 
snow and almost impassable barriers in the mountains to contend with, 
but be subjected to the annoyances of roving bands of Camanches and Apa- 
ches, or predatory hordes of Mexican banditti, and that the bones of more 
than half our number would be lelt to bleach by the way. These were 
disheartening anticipations truly, but insufficient of themselves to deter 
tis from pursuing either of the routes proposed, had it not been further 
urged by those who professed to know, that it would consume much 
more time to pass through Mexico to Acapulco or Mazatlan, where pro- 
bably no vessel could be found to caiTy us up the Pacific, than it would 
to proceed to Chagres, cross the Isthmus to Panama, and there meet one 
of the steamers, which a few weeks previously had left the United States 



A MAN OVERBOARD. I3 

to ply as mail-boats between that point and Astoria, or at least be en- 
abled to charter a sailing vessel direct for San Francisco. Alter duly 
considering these different routes, and despite the dismal stories pub- 
lished in some of the New York newspapers in regard to the hazardous 
and almost impracticable passage across the Isthmus of Darieu, this 
latter was eventually determined upon as the least objectionable and most 
expeditious. This was the grand point — speed, speed ; for in the fever 
of excitement which swept through the land, following the public^ation 
of official documents in relation to the wonderful discoveries in our 
recently acquired territory of California, its magnificent agricultural re- 
sources, where nature, with a bounteous hand profusely scattered her 
rich fruits and vegetable products ; its delicious climate and bland at- 
mosphere, which always brought the roses to the cheek, where disease 
was never known, but blessed with health, man lived beyond his allot- 
ted time in less favored climes ; its vast mineral wealth, where gold and 
other precious metals were picked up with scarcely an effort, so that 
immense fortunes were accumulated in a few weeks, produced such a 
perfect furor in the public mind, that most were eager to " take the 
wings of the morning and fly to the uttermost parts," in the midst of 
this earthly Paradise. Our little band did not plead exemption from the 
prevailing fever, and as rapid change of air to this new Italian clime 
was important as a curative agent, the route by Chagres was deemed 
the shortest and best, and agreeing to pay the skipper an additional fifty 
dollars, and any extra port charges he might incur by this change of 
destination, he was directed by tlie charterers of his vessel to steer for 
Chagres, and endeavor to reach that point with as little delay as possi- 
ble. Obeying the injunction, he piled on the canvass, and as a fresh 
breeze was blowing off Hatteras, with occasional showers, we flew 
through the water at the rate of ten knots. It was a cheering sight to 
watch the graceful movements of our little craft as she bounded over 
the waves, under the additional influence thus impafned to her motions, 
and to reflect that a few days of such rapid sailing would carry us be- 
yond the influence of the rude northern blasts we were now experienc- 
ing, to the more genial meridian of sunny climes and cloudless skies. 
Soon, hov/ever, we liad to seek shelter below from a passing shower, 
where, huddled together in what we termed the "cargo part" of our 
vessel, the cabin only being large enough for about half a dozen at one 
time, pleasing thoughts were indulged, and congratulations went round, 
at the prospect that now presented of a speedy termination of our voy- 
age, when, suddenly, we were startled from our quiet and agreeable re- 
flections by the terrific cry of a tnan overboard. Ciuick as thought we 
sprang upon deck, and rushed to the side of the vessel. Eagerly and 
anxiously every man looked to see that his friend was near. All were 
there ; but it was too true that a man, a fine old jack tar belonging to 
the schooner, was overboard, for we could plainly see him grappling 
for life with the heaving billows. He was engaged in some duty on the 
bowsprit, when the vessel made a plunge, and a towering wave at the 
same moment rolled over and washed him from his inseoure and unsta- 
ble footing. Awful, indeed, was the scene, and harrowing to the. feel- 
ings, to look upon a human being in the last agonies, straining every 
muscle to sustain himself^ with his eyeballs nearly starting from their 



14 SABBATH MORNING. 

sockets, as he perceived from the wild careering of the waves, in which 
a small boat could not for a moment have lived, and our rapid flight 
from the spot, the inevitable fate that awaited him. An attempt was 
immediately made to round the vessel to, but being constructed with a 
sliding keel, which was drawn up to facilitate her progress', and under 
a heavy press of canvass, with a high sea running, she refused to obey 
the helm, and the captain shrieked, rather than called, to " put down 
that centre board," the accomplishment of which order at once brought 
her to, and we returned to the scene of the disaster, when chaii's, hen 
coops and other articles, were thrown overboard, in the hope that they 
might catch the eye of the drowning man, and be seized upon till other 
aid could be aflbrded him, but all in vain. I saw his cap Ibr a moment 
float past on the top of a wave, but its hapless owner was gone ; the 
strong man had perished and sunk to rise no more. It was a pecuharly 
sad and melancholy scene, and for a time cast a deep gloom over our 
otherwise joyous and, in some respects, rather thoughtless party. We 
had enjoyed most prosperous breezes, with nothing of import occurring^ 
to mar the pleasant memory of our voyage, till we vdtnessed the fearful 
event of a human being in full health dying before our eyes, without our 
having the power to save him. It struck me afterwards that many on 
board were deeply impressed by it, and that it was a means and a power- 
ful one, of inducing serious reflections, by exhibiting to us our helpless 
and dependent condition. The event I can never forget, nor the lesson 
it teaches. 

The morning following this melancholy event, was ushered in by 
alternate sunshine and shower, fair winds and a milder atmosphere. 
Instead of being compelled to bear the burden of two or three overcoats 
to keep off the chilling northern blasts we have felt ever since our de- 
parture, we were now glad to dispense with all ; and the succeeding 
day, which was the Sabbath, opened magnificently, the very beau ideal 
of a calm summer horning. The Avind which hitherto had been " most 
favorable for our business," as the captain termed it, had now subsided. 
The sails flapped heavily against the masts. The sun shone from a 
cloudless sky. All nature seemed hushed to repose, for all was calm, 
serene, and beautiful. Sea-sickness was no longer felt, but all lounged 
lazily on deck, thinking or speaking of the loved ones at home. 

" How sweet it is to tell the listening air 
The name beloved." 

We usually had morning and evening service on board, conducted by 
the Rev. Dr. , and to-day he favored us with a good discourse, sus- 
taining his positions with much cogent reasoning and many forcible illus- 
trations, which seemed to be appreciated by most, and apparently pro- 
duced happy results. 

During the sermon, our captain, who was not invariably very choice 
in his expressions, was an attentive listener, and in a part m_ore than 
usually interesting and pungent, he saw, or afiected to see, something 
wrong in the top-sails, and called out to one of his men in a loud whis- 
per, which, iK»t being fully understood, he repeated the order to " clew 
down that fore top-sail" in the same tone, and loud enough to be heard 
this time, when accompanied by the distinctive expletive of " darn 



LAND, IIO! 15 

your eyes." The minister was at the moment discoursing on the sin of 
swearing, and the effect produced was truly hidicrous. 

As evening approached, the wind entirely died away, and our vessel 
rolled heavily in the trough of the sea. We all sat upon deck, enjoying 
the delicious calmness of an almost tropical night. In truth the day 
and evening were of that dreamy kind I had often fancied and read of, 
as pertaining to an ocean life in southern climes, but had never realized 
till now. 

A fine breeze sprang up about nine o'clock, and the atmosphere was 
so mild and bracing, the deep azure vault with its many twinkling stars 
so pure and beautiful, and altogether the scene so enchanting, that it 
seemed a luxury to live, and I sat to a late hour enjoying it, and watch- 
ing the sparkling waters, as our little vessel fairly danced and leaped 
from wave to wave. We were now in the same track followed by Co- 
lumbus, when in 1492, with the Pinta, Nina and Santa Maria, he ex- 
plored the vasty deep for the discovery of a new world. 

The heat continued to increase as we approached Cuba, but favoring 
winds still sped us on our way. Innumerable flying fish were seen, 
sporting through the air around our vessel, and suddenly disappearing 
in their more natural element. Many flew across the deck, and occa- 
sionally would strike the masts or rigging and fall on board. Two beau- 
tiful tropical birds, denominated by sailors " skim-o'er-the-seas," were 
also observed, and a " man-of-war falcon" silently poised above, watch- 
ing intently for an opportunity to pounce upon his prey. 

On the morning of the 24th, the man at the mast-head called out 
"land, hoi" "Where away?" " Off^ the weather bow." We soon 
came near enough to have a view of it from the deck, and ran down 
the " Caicos passage," between the " Caicos banks," the land seen, and 
" Mariguana Island." The sun was intensely hot, but a pleasant breeze 
tempei'ed his fervor, and soon launched us into the Caribbean Sea. We 
were now fairly in the trade winds, which for the last few days had 
made our progress very rapid, and were literally flying through, or rather 
over the waters, for our Uttle craft rode the waves like a duck. 

It was but eight days since our departure, and in that brief time we 
had indeed come with the speed of the winds. Every thing had gone 
on prosperously without, while the utmost harmony and good fellowship 
prevailed on board. And I think it worthy of remark, that though we 
had among us persons of dissimilar tastes, of various pursuits and dispo- 
sitions, and from opposite sections of the United States and from Europe, 
most until recently strangers to each other, yet entire unanimity of sen- 
timent existed, so that the comfort and welfare of one was the comfort 
and welfare of all. A solitary event alone would occasionally intrude 
itself, casting a shadow over the otherwise agreeable picture ; but even 
the loss of the poor sailor, which at the time of its occurrence forcibly 
brought to mind the beautii'ul lines — 

" Come, mariner, down in the deep with me. 
And hie thee under the wave," dc, 

doubtless in the inscrutable providence of God was designed to effect 
some wise purpose, which our limited capacities were unable to com- 
prehend. " 



16 AWFUL EXPLOSION. 

About three o'clock in the afternoon all was confusion on deck. A 
squall was approaching, known by a peculiar sound in the air, the sin- 
gularly white appearance on the horizon and in the surrounding atmo- 
sphere, with the lurid and portentous clouds above. The captain was 
rapidly giving his orders to take in sail and be prepared to meet the 
blow. It soon came on with heavy rain, but was of brief continuance, 
as its fury was spent some distance from us on the broad ocean, and we 
felt little more than the an^ry lashing of the waves, and the thump, 
thump of the surging sea. Before evening all was stilled to nearly a 
dead calm, and a starry night appeared with the new moon just visible, 
and a few murky looking clouds went muttering by, but soon disap- 
peared, leaving a warm and delicious atmosphere. 

" 'Twas one of tho.se ambrosial eves 
A day of storm so often leaves." 

We passed the island of Ineagua during the storm, seen from the mast- 
head some distance off. 

On the morning of the 25th, by daybreak, we sailed through the 
"Windward Passage," dividing Cuba from St. Domingo, and though 
twenty miles distant fi'om the latter, such is the pure transparency of the 
atmosphere, that we could plainly perceive the bold outline of the coast 
and mountainous character of the interior, and almost distinguish objects 
on the beach. Cuba was too far to the westward to enable us to see it. 
We conthiued to sail along the west end of San Domingo most of the 
day, and approached much nearer to it, affording us a fine view of the 
rich green verdure of the island ; and as the air was occasionally wafted 
to us from the shore, it was redolent with the jDcrfume of tropical plants, 
like " spicy gales from Araby the blest." 

A terrific explosion occurred to-day, which for a time caused great 
consternation, lest the quantity of powder we had on board had taken 
fire, and would blow the " Sovereign" clear out of the water. Two 
persons were wounded by the accident, while another who was sitting 
on the " infernal machine" was blown into the air, and a fourth was 
knocked down and deluged with a vast sluice of — ale ! In other words, 
the captain's ale barrel, albeit unused to the tossing and heat we had 
latterly experienced, burst its bounds, blowing out the head and spigot, 
which touched two persons slightly, awfully frightening another who at 
the moment was sitting on the cask, and knocking another down from 
mere fright, almost drowning him in ale ! The whole scene was rich 
and amusing, and afforded us a fund of merriment for some time. 

At night most of the passengers wei'e as usual on deck, some watch- 
ing the incessant play of lightning over the rapidly receding heights of 
San Domingo, as we flew by its south-western extremity, and others 
singing, or dancing, to the inspiring strains of a violin. All was beau- 
tiful around. The soft breeze in these latitudes so truely delicious, gent- 
ly rippled the water, and the stars shone forth from the j)ure deep blue 
sky with a lustre only known in the transj)arent atmosphere of the trop- 
ics, while our little crait herself, as if in harmony with the brilliant 
scene, appeared scarcely to touch the waves, as gayly and blithely, with 
hardly a perceptible motion, she swept over the wide waste of waters. 

We passed the Island of Jamaica in the night, and in the course of 



SHARKS AND NAUTILI. ly 

the day a brig crossed our bows, but not witliin hailiiifr distance. By- 
way of a deuiouslratiou, most ot" our party armed tlicuiselves with 
swords, pistols and cuthisses, and di.sposed about the deck and on the 
ratthnt^s, presented quite a ibrmidable appearance. One redoubtable 
" Colonel," armed with an enormous rapier, was accoutred iu i'nll uni- 
form. An immense blunderbuss was now fired, which completed the 
illusion, for our neighbor, evidently apprehensive of encountering a pi- 
rate, formerly of such frequent occurrence in these latitudes, as cheer on 
cheer went up I'rom our decks and shrouds, quickly put on a heavy press 
of canvass and bore rapidly away. A short time thereafter, we had a 
view of three ships .and a brig at once, which presented a most ani- 
mated picture. We soon bade adieu to them, and were again with no ob- 
ject in view, save the unceasing roll of waters beneath and the bright 
heavens above us. 

As we approached the termination of our voyage, the daily addition 
to old Sol's rays made the heat enervating and oppressive, but the thought 
of our coming mule-ride across the Isthmus, and the sights we should 
there witness, imparted an energy and joyous anticipation, which greatly 
contributed to sustain our flagging spirits. 

The number of sharks which infest this sea is truly astonishing. They 
could be seen iu all directions, sporting around our vessel or Ibllowing 
in her wake. By way of variety, and to relieve the monotony we were 
beginning to experience, many of our party engaged in the exciting 
sport of catching these monsters of the deep. Two enormous hooks, 
with their baits, were quickly snapped asunder, but a third was more 
successful. It was interesting to watch his evolutions belbre the bait 
was seized. He would swim round it several times, gradually lessening 
the circle, till it was nearly within his grasp, when, suddenly turning 
on his side, he made a plunge at it, and was soon secured. He proved 
to be nearly eight feet long, and was if perfect monster, as the auklea 
of many could testify, when they approached too near, as he floundered 
about and lashed the deck with his tail. 

The playful little flying-fish, too, were observed in great numbers, to- 
gether with the beautiful little nautili, or Portuguese men-of-war, which, 
having the most perfect little pink sails standing above the water and 
spread to the breeze, enable them to slide along in fine style. From 
the gelatiuoitf, pellucid body of the animal, a slender fibre or cable is 
dependent, armed with minute prickles, which possessing a contractile 
power, will jar and benumb the hand, if touched, with the force of an 
electric shock, so provident is nature in furnishing means of protection 
and defence, even lor these little skimmers of the ocean. 

At twelve o'clock on the morning of the 29th, the cheering cry of 
"laud, ho !" was heard from the "look out" at the mast-head, and in 
a little time thereafter, the towering peaks and densely wooded plains 
of the far-famed but much dreaded Isthmus of Darien, were plainly visi- 
ble fiom our deck. We continued to cruise along the coast the greater 
part of the day, adnuring the magnificent landscape, 

" that mighty chain 

Of mountains, stretching on from east to west, 
So massive, jet eo ehadowy, so etherial," 



18 DAI^GERS OF THE ENTRANCE TO CHAGRES. 

and the profuse vegetation which nature here dehghts to scatter with a 
lavish hand. 

Shortening sail as evening approached, we continued in the same 
course, and as night drew on dark and lowering, we could distinctly 
hear the breakers, with a deep hollow moan, resounding along the beach, 
and felt the influence of a heavy "ground swell," which tossed, and 
pitched, and tumbled our little craft at a furious rate. Many were ter- 
ribly alarmed at the critical situation they imagined they were in, and 
life-preservers were soon brought into requisition and fastened round the 
body, to be prepared for the fatal plunge if she should strike, 

" And roll a complete wreck 
At mercy of the waves — " 

Our captain, however, who proved himself a superior sailor and a man 
of excellent judgment in nautical affairs, regardless of all around, 
steadily held his way till he arrived at a suitable position, when the 
order to "let go the anchor" was given, and our little vessel swung 
with a jerk, quivered for a moment, and stood, safely moored off the 
harbor of Chagres. 

And now a shout went up that made the welkin ring, while guns, 
pistols, rifles, and blunderbusses, were fired in such quick succession, 
that fifly lights soon gleamed from the shore, in a vain endeavor to ascer- 
tain the meaning of all this waste of breath and powder. 

In the morning we found ourselves directly opposite the town. The 
harbor itself is a small but good one, for vessels of fi-om a hundred and 
fifty to two hundred tons, being protected by hills on all sides, and to- 
ward the ocean by a bold, beetling clifi', jutting out into the sea, on the 
summit of which towers the antique, venerable and picturesque, but 
now dilapidated castle of San Lorenzo, and at its very base flows the 
channel or entrance to the town. Some who had preceded us, did not 
appear to have been aware of this important fact, and in endeavoring 
to effect a passage, had steered too far to the right of this entrance, and 
were grounded and wrecked by the breakers, which here dash furiously 
on the beach. Four vessels — two brigs and two schooners — were lying 
there stranded, from a want of this requisite knowledge on the part of 
their commanders. 

Our captain, who had never before visited Chagres, here displayed 
his superior seamanship and calm, correct judgment, for instead of 
dashing through as others had done, in what appeared the widest part 
of the entrance, thus risking the loss of his vessel and probably the lives 
of his passengers, he stood off and on for some time, till he was satisfied 
of the condition of things, and where he must steer to make a sale har- 
bor. He was on the point of entering the channel as described, when 
he observed the steamer Orus coming out directly through the passage, 
and lay to till she came alongside. The questions whether we had any 
sickness on board, M'here from, length of time out, and number of pas- 
sengers, being satisfactorily answered, we made fast to her and were 
towed in. 



CHAGllES.— NATIVES. 19 



CHAPTER II. 

Chagres.— Natives.— Tlieir Iinlolcnce.— Effects of Climate.— Fertility.— Start for 
Gorgnna. — Native Boatmen. — Profuse Vegetation. — Beautiful Scenery. — Uproar 
ami C(jiifusion. — Packing in GiUKjes. — Night Scene on Chagrcs River. — A Sick 
Man. — Brilliant Morning. — Alligators. — Breakfast. — Hot Hide. — Arrive at Gor- 
gona. — Avaricious Natives. — Pandemonium. — Start for Panama. — A Mule Hide 
across the Isthmus of Darieu. — Beautiful Sunset. — Arrive at Panama. 

The first thing -which struck our wonderiug gaze on entering Chagres, 
was its bee-hive appearance. It is a strange, fantastic, and oddish- 
looking town, situated in a deep, dark hollow or cove. It con.sis1s of 
some forty or fifty huts, with pointed palm-thatched roofs, and reed 
walls. Nor were the innumerable buzzards which were flying about 
or resting on the houses, together with the energetic gesticulation of the 
natives when in conversation, as we drew near, at all calculated to 
lessen the picturesque eflect of a first view. The surrounding country 
was any thing but devoid of interest and beauty. All had a strange, 
equatorial look ; while the green hills around, clothed with rich tropical 
verdure, and the graceful and shadowy palm' and cocoanut, with other 
strangef antastic trees, together with the ruins of the large old Spanish 
castle, on the heights above the town, gave to the scenery a very beau- 
tiful and picturesque aspect. 

Most of us were soon ashore and rambling through the town. We 
landed at the beach on some logs, which during the rainy season are 
necessary to preserve the pedestrian from a quagmire, in the midst of 
dense foliage that was here luxuriant to the water's edge, surrounded 
by about thirty canoes and some forty or fifty huge black fellows, mostly 
in the garb in which nature arrayed them. We passed on beneath a 
burning sun, which in the shade brought the thermometer to 90^^ 
of Fahrenheit. A majority of the natives are black, but some are of a 
deep copper or mulatto color. The thick lips and woolly head of the 
African ; the high cheek-bones, straight hair, and dogged look of the 
Indian ; and the more chiseled features and finely expressive eyes of the 
Spaniard, are all here, though ofien so blended, that it is difficult to say 
to.w^hieh race they chiefly owe their origin. In truth they are a mon- 
grel race, but generally have the most magnificent, large, dark, expres- 
sive eyes I have ever seen. These, when in conversation, which is almost 
continual, they use to some purpose, while the incessant rapid clatter 
of their tongues, and their violent gesticulations and grimaces, are often 
quite ludicrous. The females, some of whom have rather pretty faces 
and particularly fine eyes, were dressed out hi the most tawdry finery, 
with divers furbelows, flounces, and ruffles, encircling the shoulders, 
where the dress begins, and tei'muiating somewhere about or below the 
knee. Some of the younger ones were entirely model artiste, at least 
so far as their clothing was concerned, but the forms of most were rather 



20 START FOR GORGONA. 

indifTerent. Many were sitting or lounging about the doors or in the 
cabins, eating tamarinds, oranges, and other fruit, surrounded by hairless 
dogs, pigs, naked children, turkey-buzzards, and some other little live- 
stock, forming altogether quite a congruous and homogeneous mixture. 

In a country like this, where the temperature is so nearly alike 
throughout the year, there is a natural tendency to indolence and sloth, 
and it is remarkable what an influence the climate exerts on the char- 
acter of the people. Here nature with a bounteous hand spontaneously 
fructifies the earth, and the natives, with few wants to supply, pluck 
the fruit and are satisfied ; and with few necessities for enterprise and 
industry, such is their love of indolence, that all the charms of existence 
appear to consist in dreaming away life in quiet and repose. Basking 
beneath a tropical sun, or listlessly reclining on nature's downy couch, 
days — years — are passed in drowsy languor and supine sloth. 

But the influx of men from rougher climes and bleaker regions will 
probably exercise a salutary influence, by showing them the advantages 
of industry and patient toil. Already they begin to perceive this, to 
some extent, and though such dear lovers of money, that in closing a 
bargain they will jabber iheix -pntois or bad Spanish with uncouth ges- 
ticulations for half a day, the majority of them are unwilling to make 
any extra bodily eflbrt to procure it ; but when persuaded by liberal 
ofters to undertake a task, it is astonishing with what dogged perseve- 
rance they will often pursue it, what weights they can support, and 
what toil they can endure. 

Returning from our ramble, we were eager to pursue our journey, 
and witness the yet unknown wonders before us. "VYe therefore dis- 
pensed with all committees, and gladly availing ourselves of the propo- 
sition made by the captain of the Orus, to carry us to Gorgona, a 
distance of fifty miles up tlie Chagres river, partly on his vessel, and 
the remaining distance by canoes, at the rate of ten dollars apiece, we 
prepared for departure on the following day. 

On the 31st of January thei'efore, we started, with fourteen canoes 
fastened to the stern of the vessel, each having from three to five native 
boatmen on board, and it was truly a wild and exciting sjjectacle. 
Many of the canoes, from the I'apid motion and swell caused by the 
steamer, shipped a good deal of water occasionally, and at such times 
the savage shrieks of the boatmen, their vociferations and constant 
jabbering produced a chaos beyond the power of pen to describe. The 
whole scene was singular, strange, wild, and romantic. 

The banks of the river, as we swept around their abrupt and fre- 
quent curves, were very beautiful. Here were all the splendid and 
gorgeous tropical plants and trees to be seen, growing with all the 
luxuriance in which nature delights in this latitude. The pomegranate, 
the tamarind, the date, the plantain, the banana, the cocoanvit, the 
orange, the lime, the citron, the pineapple, were scattered around in 
rich profusion, while the air was laden with SM^eets, and the senses 
were almost oppressed by the fragrance emitted from flowers of every 
hue. At one place we noticed a grove of orange-trees, as heavily laden 
with its large luscious fruit as any apple-orchard we had seen in the 
the United States, during the past very prolific summer there. There 
was a grandeur and beauty in the scenery that was truly enchanting. 



PACKING IN CANOES. 21 

Here immense hills or mountains, rearing their summits to the clouds, 
would suddenly burst upon the view, as we swept by the short 
turns in the river ; while, on the other hand, peaceful smiling valleys 
would present, all luicultivated, but clad with a gorgeous livery of 
foliage, and with flowers of every imaginable tint. The festoons, dra- 
peries, and trellis-work of vines, as they clung from tree to tree for miles 
in extent along the margin of the stream, presented a most graceful 
and attractive sight. Birds too, of rich and varied plumage, having 
most sweet and liquid notes, made the landscape vocal with their songs ; 
while the chattering macaws, parrots, and paroquets, with an occasional 
whistle or peculiar call of the monkeys and marmosets, as they could 
be seen playing among the dense foliage, or on the tops of the tall 
and feathery palm and cocoanut trees, gave additional interest to the 
animated and truly magnificent scene. I thought of the fabled Arca- 
dian groves and bowers, where Pan and his attendant sylphs and satyrs 
reveled, and of the romantic and improbable stories of the Arabian 
Nights, which had charmed me in early boyhood ; but here were scenes 
and prospects far surpassing any, that the wildest flight of the imagi- 
nation could conceive. It was a perfect fairy-land. 

In the afternoon the Orus ran aground, and was unable to pro- 
ceed further, being entirely too long for the abrupt curvatures of the 
river. We therefore prepared for disem.barkation into the canoes, which 
were to carry us thirty-five miles higher up the stream to Gorgona, 
and such a scene of confusion and Babel-like jabbering, I never wit- 
nessed. These Granadian darkies generally speak their patois of Indian 
and Spanish so rapidly, all at once, and with such ridiculous antics 
and violent gesticulation, that the noise and turmoil created by the dis- 
embarkation of our baggage beggars all description. 

As every thing must have an end, this at length was happily 
accomplished, and now behold us about nine o'clock at night, all snugly 
packed away, baggage included, in fifteen canoes. Slowly we wended 
our course up stream, propelled by the poles of our natural but greasy- 
looking boatmen, one or more being stationed at either side of the 
bow and one at the stern. This change was agreeable in one respect, 
for we were now relieved from the ceaseless clatter of tongues to 
which for the last five hours we had been most impatient listeners. 
But though freed from that annoyance, another nearly as unbearable, 
awaited us in our canoes, for I can assure my reader, that apart 
from the fleas, which were numerous, I never passed a more uncom- 
fortable night. Four of us, with our baggage, occupied one canoe, 
and were compelled to lie down under our closely-thatched covering 
mostly on top of each other, without the ability to stretch our nether 
limbs lower than at right angles with the bod}^ while the heat would 
perhaps have boiled an egg ! Some of our party sadly complained of 
their night's lo(^ging, but most seemed to bear it cheerfully, as our 
voyage was expected to terminate by the evening of the following day. 

These canoes are of various dimensions, some being sufficiently capa- 
cious for six persons to sit down, with a little tight packing, under the 
rounded palm-leaf covering, while others are only large enough to con- 
tam two, three, or four persons. If there was the least enterprise or 
mdostrj about this peojile, tliey would have constructed better and 



22 BRILLIAITT MORNING. 

more commodious vessels before this time, and made traveling endu- 
rable on the Chagres river. 

After poling about three hours, our boatmen drew up to the shore, at 
twelve o'clock, where we remained till four in the morning, nor would 
promises, bribes, or threats, induce them to stir till then. We were soon, 
joined by many others of the party, and crawling out of our dens, we 
quickly built up a huge fire on the sand, to keep ofi' the prowling wild 
beasts and venomous serpents which abound, and to disperse the myriads 
of insects with which the air was teeming. The moon shone brilliantly, 
and the wild appearance of the sun-ounding scenery, with our compan- 
ions standing or sitting about the sparkling fire, having pistols and cut- 
lasses in their belts, presented a most startling and brigand-like look, 
which the painter's pencil alone could adequately portray. 

A worthy member of the party, having all the horror of Chagres fever, 
cholera, or some other more dire disease reveling in his fancy, presented 
himself to me, and complained of being very ill, pressing his sides with 
a most woe-begone look. I prepared him a slight palliative, which in 
his eager and terrified haste, he swallowed so quickly that it was at 
once rejected, apparently confirming his worst apprehensions. He again 
came to me and asked if I thought he could survive the attack. Find- 
ing that he was very nervnms, the effect of long abstinence, for we had 
not eaten since morning, and the prostrating heat of the canoe, a glass of 
good old cogniac and a dry biscuit, together with a hearty laugh from his 
companions at his gloomy fears, soon restored his wonted equilibrium, 
and with it liis witty but good-natured sallies. It was an instance of 
dread of disease, almost producing the thing apprehended. 

When this little matter was disposed of, I returned to the canoe, and 
imagined that 1 slept, but will not be positively certain whether it was 
imagination or reality, but when I again peeped out, we were moving 
onward, and 

" Day glimmered in the east, and the -white moon 
Hung like a vapor in tJie cloudless sky." 

Cooped up in our little pen, we were unable to witness the ushering 
in of the brilliant morning, except through the interstices of our pahn- 
leaf covering, but the hum of insects, the song of birds, and the gay pro- 
fusion of plants, flowers, and trees, absorbed cA'cry sense in admira- 
tion of the new and varied pictures constantly presenting. On the banks 
of the river less innocent objects were to be seen. I counted in the 
space of one mile, as we floated by in our canoes, six immense alligators, 
basking in the hot sun, the odd haiameriug sounds they gave forth 
strangely echoing along the shores. Some of these were at least eight 
feet in length, and truly horrid-looking creatures. When disturbed by 
our approach, or a bullet fired at their impervious coating, they would 
drag their huge and ungainly figures forward, with head erect, and at a 
slow pace, gradually slide into the M'ater. One of the party observed a 
tiger-cat, beautifully spotted, drinking at the margin of the stream, but 
before he could prepare lor a shot, it became alarmed, and quickly dis- 
appeared in the thicket. 

About ten o'clock we were urgently admonished of the necessity of at- 
tending to our creature-coinlbrts, and the patrone, as the steersman or 



ARRIVE AT GORGONA. 03 

captain is termed, gladly stopped by our direction at a hut we noticed 
on the bank. These people we I'ound always ready to pause by the 
way, but it was difficult to start them ; we therefore kept theui going 
ahead as long as possible at one time. Here we managed to procure 
coflee without milk or cream, though we saw a number of cows near by, 
which, with boiled eggs and a little addition from our own provender, 
afforded a tolerably comfortable meal. The senora who waited on us 
was rather pretty, and of a much lighter hue than most we had seen at 
Chagres, plainly revealing her Spanish origin. She was so much occu- 
pied in attei^ding to our wants, and our frequent calls for cafe, as to be 
unable to look after o^er domestic duties, and her little infant was left 
to cry most lustily in a hammock close by. I took up the naked child 
to pacify it, which I quickly succeeded in doing, and received a most gra- 
cious look from the mother, with the oft-repeated vmchas gracias, soior. 

Whilst here, we had a favorable opportunity to view and admire the 
beautiful landscape, wondering that the strange and worthless set of 
beings living here in thatched huts, should neglect the culture of such 
prolific soil, and appear so apathetic in regard to the magnificent pros- 
pects presented on every hand. 

We paid our dos reales apiece, and departed. Slowly moving for- 
ward, we passed the rest of the day beneath our awning of palms, with 
a baking sun poui-ing his fervid rays upon us, and by six o'clock in the 
evenmg welcomed the long-expected town of Gorgona. 

Most of the party arrived by ten o'clock that night, and here another 
scene of tumult and confusion arose ; I Avas glad to be rid of this by as- 
cending the high bank on which the town is situated, and walking to 
the Alcalde's who kept the American and Spanish Hotel, if the wretch- 
ed accommodations one there receives, will allow the old shanty to be 
dignified with such a title. Here I engaged a bed for the night and 
ordered supper, to which those of us who had not pitched our tents did 
ample justice, albeit we could say nothing commendatory of the knowl- 
edge these people displayed in the culinary art, garlic or onions entering 
into most of their compounds. Gorgona we found about on a par with 
Chagres, and one or two other little towns we passed on the river, 
though in a much more healthy locality. It is built in the same man- 
ner and with similar materials, while its inhabitants are " chips of the 
old block." Nor could I anywhere discover much to interest in these 
natives. Their filthy habits and obscene exhibitions, their indolence and 
ignorance, and their perfect submission to the priests, who here rule 
supreme, were calculated rather to excite the sentiments of disgust and 
pity than any other feeling. I must say, however, in extenuation, that 
they appeared in the main, to be a simple-minded, honest, and in most 
respects, a temperate people, though instances to the contrary of these 
virtues were not wanting. The number of foreigners who are now 
traveling, and will continue to pass through their territory, will have 
the eiiect of sharpening their wits, and probably present temptations to 
which they have hitherto been strangers. Already they begin to mani- 
fest considerable adroitness in driving a bargain, and occasionally have 
not scrupled to fly from it when closed, under some flimsy plea, and 
unblushingly to make more extortionate demands. An instance oi this 
came under our notice. 



g4 START FOR PANAMA. 

"We made arrangements with our host to have five mules, at six 
dollars apiece, ready for us by dayhght ou the following' morning, a 
committee of that number of persons having been appointed to proceed 
at once to Panama, and secure passage up the Pacific for the whole 
party. To recruit for the toilsome journey we retired as soon as possi- 
ble, but the horrible clatter of cracked bells and broken tin-pans, the 
barking of dogs, sqviealing of pigs, and crying of children, together with 
the untiring gabble and vociferations of the natives, kept uji the greater 
part of the night such unearthly sounds, that we seemed to be in Pa7i- 
demonium. Sleep was eflectually banished from our eyelids. 

" Thus passed the night so foul, till morning fair 
Came forth." 

We arose from cot and hammock, flea-bitten, and but little refreshed, 
though ready to start on what we deemed our perilous journey across 
the Isthmus. Hour after hour elapsed, till the most pleasant part of 
the day was gone, and the sun shone with torrid fervor ; but still our 
mules were not ready, our host keeping them back, as we afterwards 
learned, to obtain a higher rate. Annoyed beyond endurance at the 
delay, and the tardy movements of the worthless set around us, we 
Scoured the town, and at length .succeeded in obtaining four miserable- 
looking little animals at eight dollars apiece. Another was still want- 
ing, and, by an ofier of ten dollars, I at length succeeded in getting a 
tolerably good one. Though so wi-etched in appearance, we found these 
animals capable of great endurance. 

Glad that the vexatious and irritating events of the morning, which 
the cupidity and dogged laziness of these slothful mongrels had produced, 
were happily ended, we hastily swallowed a cup of bad coflee, handed 
by a damsel nearly nude, and, mounting our Rosinmites, we started at 
a brisk canter, beneath a broiling sun, while our guido, all stripped and 
on foot, trotted ofi in advance. 

For the first mile, the M'ay was very pleasant over a nearly level 
plain, at the termination of which there were stronger indications of 
rougher riding, for we soon began to descend a nearly perpendicular 
precipice, the only pass, down Avhich was a narrow mule-way, where, 
step by step, these animals had worn a passage, over rocks, loose stones, 
sand, and mud. We at length reached the bottom of the ravine, and, 
crossing a brook, which in some parts Avas a Avide and deep chasm, we 
commenced a toilsome ascent on the opposite side, over a similar path- 
way, surrounded by sceneiy of wild and unknown plants and trees, on 
the mountain and glen, through whose dense foliage a breath could 
scarcely penetrate. The fervent atmosphere produced an almost 
stifling sensation, Avhile the deathlike silence that reigned through- 
out, disturbed only by the audible footfall of our animals, as we 
slowly wound around the tortuous ascent, made the journey pecu- 
liarly toilsome and solitary. 

What must have been the sensations of Balboa, when, centuries ago, 
he crossed this very path, over a narrow isthmus, uniting two con- 
tinents, and dividing two oceans, the verge of whose mighty waters 
swept the shores of the Eastern and Western world ? 

For the first few miles I followed closely at the heels of our guide, 



RIDE ACROSS THE ISTHMUS. 25 

and would often pause and turn to examine the apparently almost 
impassible route I had traversed, watch the progress of the rest 
of the party, and wonder at the security with which their cautiously- 
stepping and sagacious animals would gradually overcome seemingly 
insurmountable obstacles. These mustangs and mules, early trained 
to travel " in the wild mountain track," are capable of great 'en- 
durance, and certainly possess much more knowledge than most of 
their riders, when exercised upon what they consider the safest and 
surest stepping-place, and best mode of proceeding. I urged mine 
repeatedly, to make him choose a path, which to all appearance was 
preferable to liis own, but to no purpose. He would turn half romid, 
and in a slow, solemn way, put his nose to the ground, and 
looking keenly about the place, would cautiously put one loot forward, 
then another, then a third and a fourth, when, poised on all drawn 
under him, and close together, he would have a better opportvuiity for 
further inspection, which having satisfactorily accomplished, another 
equally deliberate and cautious step would be made as before, down 
what, to all appearance, was an impracticable route, and so on, until the 
difficulty was overcome. Finding that he knew so much better than 
I did, how, where, and when he ought to travel, I invariably threw 
the reins to him, when hazardous passes or other obstacles were to be 
surmounted. The result was always fortunate. One or two of the 
party, however, were satisfied that " horses should not have their own 
way," and whipped and spurred theirs to such an extent, to compel 
compliance with their better judgment, that the issue was as I had 
anticipated. One was thrown over his horse's head into a mud 
puddle, and the other, with horse and all, stuck fast in a quagmire, 
from which it was not easy to extricate him. Should these lines ever 
meet the eye of those worthy gentlemen, I trust they will pardon the 
liberty I have taken in recording here their feats of muleship. 
It is true that mine stimibled on some loose stones once or twice, 
in descending hills, and my efforts alone with the reins saved 
both him and me from a fall ; hut for unmistakeable judgment in 
traversing these perilous mountain-passes, I must admit he proved 
himself the better of the two. 

Thus we trudged on, often over dilhcult, and sometimes dangerous 
ways. Occasionally we would have to go up or down, as the case 
might be, for nearly half a mile at one time, through a chasm or 
sluice, probably worn in the mountains by the torrents of water that 
descend during the rainy season. These gully-holes are often ten and 
fifteen feet deep throughout their entire extent, and the pas.ses are so 
narrow, a.s barely to admit of one horse or mule passing through at a 
time ; the rider, to avoid a severe contusion, or probably a broken limb, 
in turning the sharp angles, being compelled to place his feet as near 
the animal's head as po.ssible, and in this manner he can ride in perfect 
saiety, though some little management is requisite to maintain an 
equilibrium. Before entering these defiles, the muleteers shout 
at the top of their voices, and stop tor a short time, continuing 
the shouting as they advance, to apprize others at the opposite 
extremity of the pass, that the way is already occupied. Q Tliis 
is necessary and important, for if two on horseback were to meet 

2 



26 ARRIVAL AT PANAMA. 

in one of these narrow but crooked paths, the scene between the duaker 
and Dandy would have to be re-enacted, lor many newspapers would 
have to be read, and many segars smoked, before either coidd turn out 
of the way for his neighbor. 

Continuing on, we passed two or three liackalas or huts by the way, 
and after several brief but pleasant stoppages at the various brooks and 
mountain-rills, we at length came out on a beautiful undulating 
meadow, where picturesque villas and shadowy trees decked the verdant 
plain, and soon thereafter the towers of Panama were in view. The 
sun was just setting as we entered the suburbs, and a flood of purple 
glory rested on the sky, reflected back by the sparkling waters of the 
Pacific, which brought the distant mountains into bolder relief, and cast 
a deeper shadow through the twilight groves. Half an hour's ride over 
the paved street, brought us to the city, which we entered at the 
" Gojgona gate," passing through a heavy stone-archway, supporting a 
cupola, in which hangs the alarm bell, surmounted by a cross. We 
stopped at the " Hotel Francais" in the " Calle de San Filiiie," rejoiced 
that the toil of our mountain travel was over, and that we had at 
length reached the shores of the Pacific. 



CHAPTER III. 



Engage passage for San Francisco. — Britisli bark " John Ritson." — An-angements 
and Accommodations. — Appointed Surgeon. — Send for Friends. — Devout Catholics. 
— Description of Panama. — Picturesque Ruins. — Romantic Sliower-Batli. — Priests. 
— Effects of Separation from Spain. — Markets. — Fruits. — Panama Fever. — Its 
cause. — How avoided. — Arrival ol" Friends. — Critical Situation. — Adieu to Panama. 
— Pelicans. — Fishes. — Joyous Anticipations. — Anchor off Taboga. — Beauty of the 
Pearl Islands. 

Arrived at Panama, our first and most important duty was to obtain 
passage on one of the two vessels now in port, a British bark and an 
American ship, both bound for San Francisco. We were much disap- 
pointed in finding no steamer here. Having made an inspection of 
these, and ascertaining that the former would be the first to sail, we 

at once closed a bargain Avith the British Vice Consul, Mr. , lor the 

seventeen cabin and forty-nine steerage vacancies on board the bark 
" John Ritson," Kennidy, master, to sail in ten days, at the rate of $200 
for the former and $150 for the latter. There were about one hundred 
and fifty persons here. Availing a passage up the Pacific, but from tardi- 
ness, want of foresight, or some other cause, they had neglected to attend 
to the matter. We therefore stole a march on them, though they had 
been here for some time, and found no difficulty in disposing of our 
fourteen surplus tickets, after accommodating our own party. We were, 

much indebted to the business tact of Mr. F , one of our committee, 

in speedily eiiecting this desirable arrangement. It was stipulated that 



DESCRirTION OF PANAMA. 27 

the accommodations anJ proAnsions were to be of the best kind and 
ample lor all. The only distinction to be made between the cabin and 
steerage pa.ssengers was, that the latter woidd not have wines furnished 
at iheir table, which, with ale, M-ere to be liberally supplied to the 
former. I was at once installed a surgeon for the trip, by the Vice Consul, 
for which service a free passage was tendered me to San Fiancisco, 
The responsibility and pecuniary advantnges cf this post I shared with 
my worthy friend, the Rev. Doctor, on his arrival at Panama. 

Having satisfactorily concluded these preliminaries, we at once dis- 
paJched a messenger, to apprise our friends at Go|gona of the progress 
made, and to hasten their departure thence. In the mean time, we 
were busily employed in inspecting all that was curious or interesting 
in this ancient seat of Spanish dominion. 

Early on the Sunday morning ibllowing our arrival, I chanced to look 
through the door of my apartment opening to the iront portico, and was 
surprised at beholding a crowd of men, women, and cliildren, kneeling in 
the middle of the street. I soon discovered that, like devout Catholics, 
they were listening to their priests and performing their matins opposite 
an open sacristy attached to the venerable-looking cathedral standing 
across the way. In the afternoon these same people might be seen with 
a rooster under one or both arms, having gall's on his spurs like knife- 
blades, hurrying through the city-gate to the scene of their festive re- 
joicing, alias cock-fighting, in which brutal sport they take great de- 
light. I had not the desii'e to desecrate the Sabbath by witnessing this 
cruel exhibition. Wagers, I was informed, were staked at every round, 
the poor ignorant natives manifesting the most intense interest and ex- 
citement at the death of a bird, dancing round the ring or uttering hor- 
rid yells and vulgar Spanish oaths, as they happened to be the winners 
or losers. Gambling, too, of different kinds prevailed. Seated in a 
chair on the pavement, with his lay companion, I saw one of the Pa- 
dres, dressed in liis canonical robes and three-cornered hat, — playing 
cards I A very estimable gentleman, himself a catholic, informed me 
that these people, since their separation from the mother country, were 
not regarded by the catholics of Christendom as belonging to their sect, 
and that their practices should not be recognized as the established prin- 
ciples of the church, various innovations and abuses having crept in 
since that event, for which reproaches they had been excommunicated 
by the See of Rome. 

The present Panama is an old-fashioned Spanish city, built more than 
a century ago, with massive stone-walls and a moat surrounding it on 
all sides. The original Panama, however, was situated about six miles 
distant. In the seventeenth century, Morgan, the celebrated Irish pi- 
rate, attacked the city, and driving out its inhabitants, sacked and burnt 
it, the crumbling ruins alone standing to tell its locality and sad late. 
Its citizens, who now are the same mongrel race with those of Girgona 
and Chagi-es, fled to this part of the Isthmus, and in process of time the 
Spanish government caused the present city of Panama to be built, 
though judging from the antique and dilapidated appearance of the 
houses and churches, it might have stood for ages. Most of these latter 
have a time-worn and venerable aspect. With thick vines growing 
over their decayed walls, and large shoots of evergreens thriving on the 



28 ROMANTIC SHOWER-BATH. 

topmost pinnacles of their towers, they present a most picturesque appear- 
ance. The streets are all paved, a duty performed by what is properly 
termed the "chain gang," composed of those who have committed 
oflences against the laM's. They are narrow, as well as the sidewalks, 
which have a flagstone pavement, and will barely suffice for two to 
walk abreast. The houses, consisting of wood and stone, with brick- 
tiled roofs, are two and three stories in height, each story having a por- 
tico or corridor stretching over the ibot-way, which adds to the sombre 
appearance, closeness, and narrowness of the streets. They are a pleas- 
ant refuge, above or below, from the heat of the noonday sun, and af- 
ford a slight shelter to the pedestrian from the drenching rains which, 
irorn May or June till December, deluge the land. What is singular, 
nearly every house is a store or fancy-shop of some sort. In our ram- 
bles, we discovered a kind of confectionary near to the plaza, which we 
called by a familiar name at home, whither we sometimes resorted in 
the cool pleasant evenings, to partake of «^«« tamarinda, or tamarind- 
water, a most agreeable and beautiful beverage Continuing our stroll 
from thence to the battery, overlooking the bay, we would spend hours 
in enjoying the soft and balmy air of the ocean, lighted by the efililgent 
rays of a full-orbed moon. Occasionally we wandered thrQugh the ruins 
of the neighboring convents, whose crumbling walls, overgrown with 
moss and vines, were objects of deep and peculiar interest. The court- 
yard of one of these was our favorite resort for bathing, where, beneath 
a little thatched shed, with gourd in hand, we dipped the water from the 
oriental-looking jars, and enjoyed all the luxury of a shower. The well 
stood by from which we drew the water, and our little shady nook was 
screened from observation by the mass of foliage which even here, as 
elsewhere, grew M'ith tropical profusion. 

We met many priests in our walks, dressed in the black silk gown 
and stockings, with the queer-shaped, three-cornered, and rather soldier- 
like-looking chapcau.. They are decidedly the elite of the place, and 
in passing would politely tip the hat in a most graceful manner. We 
also met the Bishop, who was dressed in a purple silk gown and cowl, 
around the borders of each of which, a very nice little white frill peeped 
out, while his whole attire struck me as very odd and fantastic. His 
demeanor was very dignified, and, attended by a monk on either side, 
he walked with a most stately tread. 

There are few families here of the pure Castilian blood, and most of 
the people are deficient in the higher moral attributes. Their separa- 
tion from Spain appears to have inflicted a death-blow on the resources 
of the coiuitry, for since then all enterprise has languished. Slothful, 
and adverse to exertion, they see nature with a prodigal hand scattering 
around her rich and precious fruits, Mdiich they are content to phick and 
eat. Tlie country in the vicinity of Panama, with a little labor 
might be made a garden spot, bearing all the luxuries that soil can 
produce, for though au uncultivated wilderness, it yields sufficient to 
satisfy the simple wants of the natives without toil. The sudden influx 
of so many strangers, has put them to their wit's end to supply all their 
requirements, and of course has tended to enhance the value of every 
thing. 

01' the markets, little that is commcjidatory can be said. All, except 



ARRIVAL OF FRIENDS. 29 

their fruits, which are very numerous, and have a most templinn^ look, 
prcseut a hot, dirty, and j^reasy ap])earauce, while the hall-dressed 
native saleswomen look as fj;reasy and unattractive as their vendibles. 
Meat is sold, cut into strips, by the yard, while calico in tlie stores is 
sold by the pound, thus completely reversin<^ the order of things as they 
obtain with us. Fish and oysters are numerous, but the latter have a 
soft, milky appearance, not sufficient to tempt me to a taste. Potatoes, 
though rarely, I occasionally saw. Yams, very similar in characrter, 
though more farinaceous than that fine esculent, are here substituted, 
and are very abundant. In appearance they somewhat resemble our 
sweet-potatoes, and often grow to an enormous size. I have no doubt 
they could be successfully cultivated in most parts of the United 
States. 

At our hotel we had " fish, flesh, and fowl," but the only vegetables 
we were favored with, consisted of rice boiled in fat, and fresh rolls : 
the dessert comprising all the luscious fruits of the country. But these 
should be sparingly indulged in by new-comers, as several fatal cases of 
disease came under my observation from inattention to this matter. 
Coming from a climate where the thermometer was at zero, to the re- 
laxing heat of a latitude but nine degrees from the equator, the indi- 
viduals in question had walked across the Isthmus, drank freely of the 
water and ate of the fruits, and disease always followed, and in some 
instances death. The so-called Panama fever rarely occurs, uidess 
previous disease has wasted the powers of life, or fatigue and long ex- 
posure to the hot sun or rain, and an undue indulgence in the fruits of 
the country, have predisposed the system to an attack. Temperance in 
drinking is also a wise precaution in crossing the Isthmus or residing at 
Panama. The water of the streams is generally charged with a large 
amount of decayed vegetable matter, and hence if freely drank is apt to 
induce severe and fatal sickness. A glass of claret or ale occasionally, 
and nothing stronger, I would advise as a proper substitute. If brandy 
is used, the blood already fired by the fierce rays of an equatorial sun, 
can not long endure the accumulated heat, and fatal disease will almost 
necessarily be the result. A passage across the Isthmus, or a residence 
at Panama, are by no means to be dreaded ; for with due precaution in 
cleanliness and attention to these hints, my countrymen, intending to 
travel that route, will find that health and comfort, rather than disease 
and death, will attend them. 

The different gentlemen of our party were daily arriving, and it was 
pleasant to stroll through the outskirts of the city and witness the joyous 
meeting of friends or relatives. Many were two days on the route, 
and some had dismal stories to recount of their adventures by the way. 
My esteemed friend M , unused to such mountain-tramps, pre- 
sented a most woe-begone and comical look. He was covered with 
mud and dust, having been completely " put through," to use his own 
phrase, and I could not forbear a smile at his rather ludicrous appear- 
ance. "Ah, doctor," he exclaimed, seizing my hand, " these are a 
high old style of roads I have just been crossing I" One of tlie party 
imprudently started alone from Gorgona, and was soon lost in the woods, 
wanderhig about among the hills and ravines till night came on, and 
still he was miable to discover the path, or extricate himself from his 



30 ADIEU TO PANAMA. 

sad dilemma. As evening approached, a new source of alarm occurred 
in the howhng and roaring ot" wild animals, which frequently crossed 
his way, as if in pursuit of each other. He represented it, as though all 
the menageries in creation were let loose around him, and almost frighten- 
ed to death for fear of an attack from one of the monsters, it was midnight 
before he succeeded in reaching one of the huts of the country. Here, 
almost exhausted by his tramp, he lay down, but from the nervous and 
excited state of his system for many previous hours, and from what he 
regarded as the suspicious movements of the inmates of the hut, he was 
unable to sleep, and, wearied as he was, by morning's dawn was again 
on his feet, arriving at length in safety at Panama, where attention 
and repose soon recruited his health and strength. The natives say- 
that lions, panthers, and tigers, with other savage wild beasts, prowl 
about, while the inmimerable hosts of monkeys, ant-eaters, and venem- 
ous serpents that abound, make the night season a dangerous time to 
travel. 

Now came the most vexatious and annoying business of collecting 
and arranging our luggage, many of the muleteers not arriving lor 
several days after all the party got in ; but I will not inflict upon my 
reader a recital of our mishaps and troubles, and will content myself 
with whispering in his ear the important adriionition, to never lose 
sight of his luggage in crossing the Isthmus of Darien. 

Bidding adieu to Panama, where we had passed some pleasant days, 
which memory recalls with a high degree of satisfaction, we took a large 
" bungee," or canoe with square sails, and in about two hours were on 
board the bark, some three miles distant, and ready for as rapid a flight, 
as her immense canvas could aflbrd, for San Francisco. In passing out, 
we sailed through a flock of thousands of pelicans, all busy in darting, 
soaring, and skimming the water, intent on the one object of seizing 
the little finny tribe that in myriads could be seen sporting on the 
surface. We were enabled to observe them closely, for our move- 
ments did not appear to disturb their pursuits. It was a most in- 
teresting sight to witness their evolutions, and the facility Avith which, 
either in flight or resting on the water, they would seize and swallow 
so many, and occasionally such enormous fish. In this act, the great 
sack near the beak is extended to its utmost dimensions, but in flight it 
is contracted along with the neck, and they present the odd aj)pear- 
ance of being all head and shoulders. 

About lour o'clock, all were saiely on board, and we weighed anchor 
for the first time on the grand Pacific, intending to proceed to the 
island of Taboga, nine miles distant, for a supply of water and other 
stores, till we could reach the port of Realejio. " Once more upon the 
ocean" — 'twas a joyful thought, as our vessel cut the swelling waves 
and rapidly bore us down the bay, sending a thrill of delight to every 
breast, which could only be relieved by a regular old-fashioned Yankee 
hurra, that nine times was made to echo through the air. Well is 
it for us that the future is concealed from view, ibr alas, had some on 
that vessel known the trying events they would pass through and the 
harrowing scenes they would witness, with disease and death in our 
midst, on a calm sea, beneath the burning sun of the equator, how 
difi^erent would have been their anticipation of a happy and a prosper- 



FIGHT WITH A BOA CONSTRICTOR. 31 

ous voyage, and how difTereritly would they have given expression 
to the teeliiigs such knowledge had induced. 

In less liian an hour we cast anchor oft' the town of Taboga, a 
small collection of thatched tenements, shaded by tall and graceful 
palm-trees, and about of the same character as the towns of Gorgona 
and Chagres. The appearance of the Pearl Islands here, dotting the 
placid ocean, was extremely beautiful, as the declining sun cast his 
golden rays over the calm and peaceful scene, throwing hill and valley 
into light and shade, ^ome of the high and pointed peaks in view 
were evidently volcanic and almost bare of verdure, while others were 
clothed with a rich green mantle, interspersed with tropical plants and 
fruits, and clinging vines, throughout their whole extent. 



CHAPTEU IV. 

• 

Passengers Ashore. — Extinct Volcano. — Fight with a Boa Constrictor. — A Wounded 
Man. — Part company with a Lady and Gentleman. — Return a Sick Man to Pan- 
ama. — Town of Taboga. — An Enchanting Spot. — Fruits. — Sickness on Board. — • 
Whales. — Unpleasant Incident. — Weigh Anchor. — Another Man in the Hcjld. — 
English Bread- Act. — The Captain and his Mates. — A Sail. — Incidents. — A Calm. — 
Increasing Sickness. — A Death. — Intense Heat. — Another Death. — Awful Situa- 
tion. — Burial at Sea. — Gorgeous Sunset. — More Sickness. — Escape from " the Vil- 
lainous Hole." 

On the follo^\ing morning most of the passengers went ashore to 
view the island, but as the day was lowering, with an occasional 
shower, I preferred to remain on board. They gave an exciting 
account of their adventures, some having penetrated with true Yaiikee 
enterprise to the summit of one of the highest peaks in view, and 
there discovered the immense crater of an extinct volcano. Others had 
a battle with an enormous Boa Constrictor, and after divers advances 
and retreats succeeded in overcoming the reptile. In removing his 
skin, as a trophy of the fight, they discovered an immense distension 
in a part of his coil, the result of hi.s recently having swallowed an 
Iguana, an animal larger than a cat, which had produced a partial 
torpor, or probably there would have been a less fortunate termina- 
tion of the conflict. 

One boat-load returned from the shore about eleven o'clock, and 
•when half-way to the vessel I heard my name called most vociferously, 
the object of which I soon discovered was to hivite my professional 
attention to a Avounded man who was among them. It appeared that 
one of their number had foolishly worn a naked dirk-knife in his 
girdle. When about leaving the shore, he stooped forward to push off 
the boat, raising his knee at the same time with considerable force, 
the consequence of which was a severe wound on the leg in imme- 
diate proximity to the femoral artery, wliich at first was thought to 



32 AN ENCHANTING SPOT. 

be severed. This, however, I soon ascertained was not the case, 
though he had bled profusely, and whilst I was dressing the wound he 
fainted, nor did his system ever rally from the shock it su.stained. 

In the afternoon a lady and gentleman, with their servant, who had 
accompanied us thus far, being dissatisfied with the arrangements on 
board, engaged a bungee at Taboga and returned to Panama. At the 
moment of their departure, the swivel was fired, by way of expressing 
the satisfaction of the passengers, which compliment was acknowl- 
edged by the retiring party, waving an equally-satisfied adieu I 

I was soon doomed to learn the discomforts and annoyances of 
being surgeon in a crowded ship, for about two o'clock on the following 
morning, I was roused from pleasant dreams of home and all the 
loved ones there, to adirrinister to a poor fellow who had fallen, head- 
foremost, through the hatchway into the hold of the vessel. He was 
not materially injured by the fall, but I recognized him as a German, 
who had been ill at Panama, and was now under treatment. From 
the low form of fever that was consuming him, he was in no condi- 
tion to undertake the voyage to San Francisco. His disease was 
" Panama fever," contracted on the Isthmus, and being a person of 
uncleanly habits, I considered it due to the rest of the passengers, to 
give a certificate to the captain to that eflect, desiring him to be returned 
to the hospital at Panama, which was ordered and done, his passage- 
money being returned to him. 

In the morning I went ashore, accompanied by some other gentle- 
men, roaming along the beach, and picking up the shells, which are 
found here in great numbers. We then passed througli the town, 
which, while presenting more rural attractions, was not dissimilar to 
those we had seen. The streets and the side of the mountain on 
which it stands, were, in many places, difficult to pass over, being 
composed of masses of rock and lava, evidently the result of volcanic 
eruptions from the adjacent peaks. From thence we continued our 
stroll, and climbing up the hill-side, came to an enchanting spot ; a 
mountain streamlet which descending from above in many miniature 
cascades, plunging and foaming over cliff and precipice, had worn deep 
and rounded basins in the solid rocks, forming limpid pools of cold and 
delightful water. It forcibly brought to mind a beautiful and romantic 
spot in my own native laud, near the monumental city, where a 
gurgling rill leaps joyously through the dingle, and where I had passed 
many a happy hour. Here we tarried for some time beneath the wel- 
come shade, enjoyed the luxury of a mountain bath in one of the 
largest reservoirs close by, and partook of some of the luscious fruits 
of the country, pineapples, oranges, and water-melons, which a native 
brought to us, freshly plucked from plant, tree, and vine. 

Leaving this delightful spot, which I was almost loath to quit, I 
returned to duty on board the bark, sickness having already begun to 
make its appearance among us. In the afternoon, I had an excellent 
opportunity to observe the movements of three whales, swimming 
within twenty yards of our anchorage. Every few minutes their im- 
mense heads would heave up from the ocean, and two large jets like 
sparkling fountains would burst forth at each breath, with a peculiar 
blowinfj sound, causinjif a commotion and light foam on tlie water for 



ENGLISH BREAD-ACT. 33 

some distance around. As the head went down, the broad tail wonkl 
rise, and with one or two lashes on the surface, increasing its turbu- 
lence and marking the spot for some time, it would disappear, and a 
few rods ahead the same thing would be repeated, till they were 
finally lost to view. 

On the afternoon of the 16th, all hands were mustered on deck, pre- 
paratory to caUing over the list of passengers, when it was discovered 
that two or three were on board without consent or license, not having 
paid their passage. Search was immediately made, and a swarthy, 
ill-looking Spaniard was found secreted in the hold, under a pile of 
oakum. He was brought on deck, and I pitied the poor wretch, as he 
stood there, subjected to the eager gaze of the multitude. The captain 
proposed that he should be tied and flogged, but this proposition was in- 
dignantly rejected, and he was put ashore. He had no sooner got into 
the boat than his true character was revealed. Looking up to the side 
of the vessel with a most demoniacal expression at one of the passengers, 
who had urged that his bundle be examined before he went olf, he shook 
his clenched fist at him, and said — " I will mark you, and will have 
your heart's blood yet in California." The fellow was taken to Ta- 
boga. 

This unpleasant incident over, on Friday afternoon, inauspicious day ! 
we prepared for departure. The song of the sailors at the windlass had 
ceased, the union-jack was run up, the swivel fired, and soon, under a 
heavy press of canvas, masts, sails, and spars bent to the freshening 
breeze, and our bark danced merrily over the water. 

The next day was excessively hot, with a calm sea. We ran about 
a hundred miles through the night, in a southwesterly course, intend- 
ing, if possible, to strike the trade-winds one or two degrees north of the 
equator. To-day we hooked an enormous shark, and, after floundering 
and slashing about the deck for some time, the captain cut oflThis tail, a 
custom with sailors, and had him thrown overboard, where he was 
quickly devoured by the multitudes alongside and in the wake of the 
vessel. Another man was found secreted in the hold, and as he was 
evidently much exhausted from want of nourishment, and laboring 
vmder the low form of disease denominated Panama fever, a collection 
was taken up, to which most of us cheerfully subscribed, to pay hia 
passage. 

The weather became most oppressively hot as we continued our south- 
westerly course, and the brains of all on board seemed to be influenced 
by the sun's rays, evinced by the belligerent propensities that were 
manifested, which at one time threatened to have almost a serious ter- 
mination. The ire of the Yankees was aroused, by an attempt to 
enforce an odious English bread-act I The steerage had bitterly com- 
plained of the wretched, indifferent fare that was afforded, and the 
irregularity with wliich even that was served. Complaints were few 
but deep from the cabin also, for, with breakfast at twelve, and tea at 
seven, (two meals per diem,) and neither ale nor wine on board, who 
would not complain ? One morning, as usual, the hard, dry, brown 
English biscuit, interspersed witli Avhat, though of vegetable origin, evi- 
dently possessed animal life, were being distributed to the steerage pas- 
sengers. Few would receive them, lor, happening to have got possession 

2* 



34 A SAIL.— INCIDENTS. 

of a barrel of white biscuit in the absence of the mate, they had freely 
helped themselves. Discovering this, but too late to prevent it, he be- 
came furious, and threatened to throw the first man overboard who 
attempted it a second time. Yankee blood could not brook such a 
threat, with all their other accumulated wrongs, at the hands of John 
Bull,, and had not the most conciliatory measures been adopted, with a 
promise of different arrangements in future, more in harmony with the 
spirit of the contract entered into at Panama, it is more than probable 
that himself and the captain would have shared that fate, and the vessel 
have been taken possession of by the malcontents. Few on board would 
have censured the latter proceeding, for the officers, thus far, had 
proved themselves totally incompetent to have command of a passenger- 
ship. With gross ignorance, and inattention to the comfort or M'auts of 
any, they evinced a stolidity and want of forecast which were unpar- 
donable. The assumption of a dignified reserve, on the part of the cap- 
tain and subordinate officers, was ludicrous enough to some, but provoked 
emotions in others which in no event would have been much longer 
suppressed. At one time the captain threatened to run his vessel 
ashore, and, on another occasion, directed that she should be put about, 
to return to Panama. This latter procedure met with so favorable and 
cordial a reception, evinced by a cheer from all on board, that he 
quickly covmtermanded the order, determined on opposition at all 
hazards. In truth, he knew not what was due to himself or his pas- 
sengers. 

On the 18th, a sail was descried, and, as it approached, the glorious 
stars and stripes, the magnificent flag of our country, could be seen float- 
ing from her gaff. The union-jack of England was then run up from 
our vessel, and a boat put off from the stranger to board us. It soon 
came alongside, containing the mate and six seamen, all noble-looking 
fellows. The vessel proved to be the bark Equator, Captain Matthews, 
from New Bedford, out seventeen months on a whaling voyage. They 
asked for papers and news, for, floating about the Pacific in this distant 
region, they had no knowledge who was president of the United States, 
and had merely heard a vague rumor that California was the land of 
promise, and contained mineral wealth. On these heads we enlight- 
ened them, and when their vessel was regained, she was soon seen 
standing off in the direction of Panama. There, we afterAvards learned, 
she reported that the passengers of the John Ritson had placed the cap- 
tain and officers in confinement, and had taken command of the vessel. 
"We were not surprised at this, for, from the want of a head, the utmost 
confusion and insubordination prevailed, and a stranger might readily 
have inferred it all. We were amused, also, to learn that, in conse- 
quence of this information, the consul there had sent a British man-of- 
war in pursuit of us. And all because Brother Jonathan resisted the 
bread-act I 

Towards evening a glorious breeze sprang up, and our bark walked 
the water at the rate of eleven knots, the hot, almost stifling atmosphere 
of the morning being sensibly and most agreeably tempered by a rising 
wind. In the night I was aroused by a drenching from salt-water, 
which almost inundated me. On retiring, as usual I had left the little 
window of my berth open, to get all the cool air that was possible, and 



INTENSE HEAT. 35 

then I would have none to spare, and through this the water found so 
copious and sudden an entrance as nearly drowned me. It was a cool, 
retreshiiig incident, on this hot latitude. 

From this time to the 22d we were becalmed, lazily floating about 
like a log- in the ocean. Our sails hung from the masts, and on the 
long heaving swell, we would toss up and down, beneath the fierce rays 
of a scorching sun, with no object to reheve the monotony save the 
deep blue waves below and the burning azure vault above. All was 
calm, still, and hot. Much sickness occurred at this time, owing in 
some measure to bad diet and irregular meals, but chiefly to the con- 
tinued prostrating heat, from which cause all experienced a degree of 
lassitude and debility. 

Early on the morning of the 23d I was called to visit the man who 
had accidently wounded himself at Taboga, when he lost such a 
quantity of blood. He had been under treatment since, but had evi- 
dently been sinking for the last two days. He had recovered from the 
wound, but the shock his system sustained at the time of its infliction, 
when he exclaimed, " 1 have killed myself," combined with the con- 
tinued enervating and excessive heat, had brought on fever, which as 
the result proved was fatal. About eight o'clock his eyes were closed 
in the last, long sleep of death, and some time thereafter his remains 
were committed to the silent deep, as food for fishes. The burial 
service was read — the water parted as he was launched in — the waves 
closed over him — all was hushed and still save the dismal plunge, and 
the sad scene was over. 

Soon thereafter a sail was seen, which when we drew near, proved 
to be the Peruvian brig " Venao," last from San Bias and bound for 
Paita. She had been becalmed for the last ten days, and was nearly 
out of water, which we, injustice to ourselves, were unable to supply. 
They also requested some medicines, which I was fortunately enabled 
to furnish. She bore away to the Gallipagos Islands, in pursuit of 
water, but made slow progress. The weather continued terribly hot, 
and the sea terribly calm. Scarcely a breath of air was stirring, Avhile 
the broad Pacific presented the appearance of an immense lake, without 
a ripple. 

We were still becalmed on the following day, the sun shone 
from a cloudless sky with most intense fervor, and instead of making 
any headway we receded from the point of destination. 

Another man to-day paid the debt of nature. He had been ill all the 
way from New York to Chagres ; and on the Isthmus and at Panama, 
contrary to the advice and caution urged upon him, had been very im- 
prudent. We were now nearly under the equator. His constitution 
was much shattered, and when attacked with the prevailing fever, 
under the fiery rays of an equatorial sun, death soon laid his icy hand 
upon him. 

As we assembled around his remains, when the last sad offices were 
being performed, preparatory to committing them to the mighty deep, 
I cast my eyes over the crowd, and could not avoid being struck and 
deeply impressed with what I saw. The complexion of every man was 
that of an extremely sallow hue, approaching more to the lividness of 
death than any thing I can describe, while the anxious, fearful expres- 



36 BURIAL AT SEA. 

sion of their countenances, as they gazed on the prostrate form of one 
of their number, about being consigned to a watery tomb, was such as 
I hope to be spared ever witnessing again. Many afterwards expressed 
to me the terrible apprehensions they' then labored under. Who would 
be the next victim ? The feelmg of lassitude, consequent upon the 
enervating heat, with disease and death stalking fearfully around, 
aroused all to a sense of the powerless and awful situation in which we 
were placed. In truth it was a trying time, attended with a sickening 
sensation of the heart, which our helpless condition, subjected to the 
fierce rays of a burning sun on a calm sea, another of our company 
having departed to " that bourne from whence no traveler returns," 
which weighed upon the spirits and induced a gloomy foreboding, legi- 
bly impressed on the countenance of every man on board. 

" Then shook the tiniid and stood still the brave." 

A burial at sea is an affecting sight to witness ; it is an awful and 
impressive solemnity. The judicious and appropriate prayer offered by 

the Rev. Mr. , at the close of the day, was well-timed and had a 

salutary effect. 

As evening approached, and the fiery orb of day sunk to rest, the 
sight was grand aud imposing. Rich and gorgeous clouds, blending 
into every imaginable shape and hue, were mirrored in the placid 
ocean, the refluent rays with brilliant and glowing coloring, beautifully 
traced on the dim and distant horizon, where the new moon and a 
bright star were just visible, which with the declining sun presented a 
rare combination, such as I had never witnessed. The spectacle was 
truly sublime. 

On the following day it was, as usual, still calm and intensely hot ; 
and the captain, finding we were almost daily losing, and were being 
rapidly carried by the currents towards the equator, with little progress 
westward, determined to change his course and steer in a northwesterly 
direction. He was also influenced by the state of things on board. 
Much dissatisfaction prevailed. Sickness pressed heavily upon us. 
Death in two successive days had already occurred, while the condition 
of others indicated, that a few more days in that low latitude, would 
consign many to the deep. It was therefore deemed most pnulent to 
pursue this course, and as a further means to stay the hand of disease, 
the hold and cabin of the vessel were thoroughly cleansed and fumiga- 
ted, and disinfecting agents freely used, with an urgent recommendation 
that each passenger should preserve the utmost personal cleanliness by 
daily ablutions with sea-water. These sanatory precautions were of 
essential advantage, and the occurrence of a heavy rain that night, 
which scattered those sleeping on deck like frightened sheep, and a 
pleasant breeze from the southeast, which bore us onward, was most 
refreshing and invigorating, as the improved appearance of all indicated, 
and the salutary influence exerted on the sick was soon apparent. It 
continued to rain till the following night, with loud peals of thunder 
and vivid lightning, attended by frequent and sudden squalls, when it 
gradually ceased, and the wind set in the right quarter, speeding us out- 
of the "villainous hole," as some termed it, and rapidly carrying us on- 
ward, away from the pestilential atmosphere of the equator. An 



FIERY SUN AKD CLOUDLESS SKIES. 37 

observation the next day, gave 'S^ 24' north latitude, and as 
heretofore we had run several degrees south of Panama, it was 
something gained, for calculating the west longitude we were now 
about five hundred miles distant from it, and could not but perceive 
that the ovemding arm of the Almighty was plainly visible, in thus 
rescuing us from the perilous situation in which we were placed. 



CHAPTER V. 



Tranquil Sea. — Fiery Sun and Cloudless Skies. — A Sailing-Vessel not adapted to the 
Pacific. — Change our Course. — Myriads of Wat«r-Fowls and Fishes. — The Porpoise, 
Grampus, Dolphin, and Devil-Fish. — Coa^t of Costa Rica. — Milder Atmosphere. — 
Delightful Breezes. — Amusing Incidents. — Off Realejio. — Fourth of March. — 
Shark Supper. — Increasing Heat. — Brilliant Xights. — A Death. — Remarkable 
Coincidences. — Coast of Guatemala. — Repose on the Pacific. — Gulf of Tehuan- 
tepec — Coast of Oaxaca. — A Volcano. — Harbor, City, and Inhabitants of Aca- 
pulco. — Attempt to Sleep Ashore. — A Mexican Salute. — Sumptuous Repast. — 
Almost a Battle. 

Thus we continued slumbering along, 'with occasionally a light wind, 
but more frequently a dead calm. At such times, the sea was tranquil 
as a lake unrufEed by a breeze, or like a mirror whose surface of pol- 
ished glass has never been disttu-bed by a breath ; the smooth water 
beneath, and fiery sun in a cloudless sky above, being the only objects 
of the broad expanse. 

A saUiag- vessel is not adapted, nay, it is totally unfit for the Pacific, 
None but steamers should ever attempt to plough its waters. With 
a constant suceession of calms, or the wina blowing steadily in one 
direction, and that from the north, for some distance from the coast the 
greater part of the year, it is almost impossible to make any headway 
in a sailing-vessel. Ships have been becalmed in the Bay of Panama 
for twenty and thirt)' days. I knew of one in this situation for three 
weeks, vt-ithin one hundred and fifty miles of the city, having a mes- 
senger with important and urgent dispatches on board, who eventually 
was compelled to take to the long-boat, and be rowed up I 

With these difficulties to contend against, my reader mnst be aware 
that our progress was necessarily slow, and our captain again changed 
his course and stood in for the land, hoping, as he was told would be the 
case, to find that a land-breeze constantly blew from the southern quar- 
ter. He must not suppose, however, that I design to inflict upon him 
all the daily occurrences and incidents among us throughout the voyage. 
I will content myself with noting only a few of those which at the time 
appeared most interesting, and attracted our attention. 

As we drew our slow length along, in heading for the land, we were 
fitruck with amazement at the enormous quantity of fish and water-fowl 
with whiih the Pacific abounds. For tmles around, these latter often could 



38 COAST OF COSTA RICA. 

be seen blackening the surface of the ocean, and resting on its placid 
waters ; while, at other times, sportive fishes, of as various kinds, and 
almost as numerous, would leap from the water, often fifteen feet high, 
making a most animated and interesting sight. The porpoise, and 
grampus too, would roll along in regular files of a hundred abreast, 
tumbling over or rising and falling in even time like the drill of veterans, 
snorting and grunting in unison with their march across the silent deep. 
We also obser\^ed many large whales at one time in the vicinity of the 
ship, puffing and spouting the water high into the air as they arose, or 
lazily floating near the surface. The beautiful and graceful dolphins 
too, sported around the vessel, some of which we caught with a harpoon, 
and, chameleon-like, as they lay on the deck, their color changed with 
the approach of death from green, blue, and orange, to the finest rain- 
bow commingling of tints. It is only in death that the dolphm reveals 
his brightest and most gorgeous beauty. 

Among other curious specimens of vitality, floating on and in the 
briny wave, we saw an immense devil-fish, strange and odd-looking 
beyond conception. It approached the side of the vessel, as we leaned 
over, where, apparently pleased to attract attention, it would cast the 
large rolling eyes upward, and throw itself into every possible attitude, 
remaining on the surface long enough to afibrd a view of its outlandish 
conformation, and most devilish-looking structure. It apparently pos- 
sessed long arms, at the extremities of which were fangs or claws, wliile 
between the shoulders was seated its small, but most hideous and quick- 
moving head. In shape not unhke a bat, it was truly a horrid-looking 
monster. 

The first land we made, was the promontory of Nicoya, at the 
northern extremity of Costa Rica, and on the succeeding day we passed 
a small island, on which a castle or fortress stands, commanding the 
entrance to the harbor. As we slowly cruised along the coast for several 
days, we had occasional views of the headlands, but did not approach near 
enough to observe the character of the shores. The atmosphere was 
much milder than any we had experienced, the sun was not so intense, 
while the gentle air wafted over the water from the beach was bland 
and refreshing. The pleasant breeze, light for the first few days, grad- 
ually increased, till on the evening of the fifth day, it blew almost a gale 
from the southeast. Without a speck on the deep blue arch to obscure 
a single peeping star, but with an efi'ulgent moon lighting up the bril- 
liant waters, we dashed through the sparkling sea at the rate of ten and 
a half knots. It was a sight we had not witnessed on the Pacific, and 
so much did we enjoy it, that many sat up to a late hour, loath to quit 
a scene so attractive, and rendered doubly so by the knowledge that we- 
were speeding on our way in such magnificent style. The breeze had 
not subsided by morning, but continued to urge us forward at the same 
rate. Our deck was nearly perpendicular. No one could attempt to 
walk it, but rapidly running fi-om point to point, would seize on objects 
in passing to sustain him. The foam and spray dashed from the bows 
and flew in every direction, often extending so far, that some half a dozen 
persons at once would be completely saturated by the briny deluge, much 
to the amusement of those who escaped, as many a merry peal would 
follow each submerging. We were now off Realejio, and as the wind 



REMARKABLE CODfCIDENOES. 39 

was blowinor us from the land in a northwesterly direction, we deter- 
mined to take advantage of it, and continue our course, intending to 
stop at Acapulco, or one of the ports higher up the Pacific, the captain 
stating that he had provisions and water sufficient for that purpose. We 
therefore steadily kept our way, but towards noon (our usual late) the 
wind lulled, the sails hanging loosely from the mast, or flapping about 
like the wings of an immense condor. In truth, we were becalmed. 
And here I would take occasion to advise my countrymen never to leave 
Panama in a saihng-vessel. The frequent and vexatious calms which 
generally prevail from December to May, rated here as the winter 
season, between that point and San Bias, will almost preclude the pos- 
sibility of their making much progress, while the hurricanes, tornadoes, 
deluges of rain and destructive lightnings that are apt to occur during 
the summer months, or from June to November, renders the navigation 
along the coast extremely hazardous. The coast too, at this time, is 
regarded as so unhealthy, as to be abandoned by the inhabitants. Take a 
steamer all the tvay through, and buy your tickets in New York 
before starting. 

The 4th of March was a mild, resplendent morning, but we recol- 
lected that being Sunday, the United States was without a President ! 
To-day a shark was hooked, and in commemoration of the event, a 
shark supper was prepared, and his jaws containing upward of three 
hundred teeth were preserved. Of the former I declined to partake, 
though many appeared to relish it, but I claimed the latter as my 
share of the booty. 

The heat continued to increase each day as we stood off from the 
land, but a brilliant moon and pleasant breeze, made the nights delight- 
ful and magnificent. So clear was the light and so transparent the at- 
mosphere, that we could plainly see to read without any other lamp 
than that which was suspended in the limitless expanse. 

On the 7th, another of our number, and one of the most esteemed 
members of our party, quietly breathed his last, " and his spirit returned 
to the God who gave it." With deep grief, his remains were commit- 
ted to their last resting-place, the sea. He had been ill with the pre- 
vailing fever for the last ten days, and his symptoms from the first, were 
of such a character that few anticipated a favorable result. He also 
labored under a bodily affliction, that in any situation would have seri- 
ously retarded his recovery, but in such a latitude as we had been com- 
pelled to pass through, it greatly contributed to hasten his departure. 
All the others who were ill had recovered or were convalescent. It is 
worthy of note, that in the three deaths which had occurred since we left 
Panama, the constitution of each person had been impaired or under- 
mined by previous causes. It was remarked, that one death out of 
each party from New Orleans, New York, and Baltimore, now on board, 
had occurred. 

In a day or two thereafter, we were cruising along the coast of Gua- 
temala, and passed the site of the old city of that name, the land fa- 
mous for its earthquakes and volcanoes, and all the heavings and con- 
vulsions of nature, which laid the city itself in ruins, and destroyed so 
many of its inhabitants. 

Little of interest occurred from day to day to relievo the monotonous 



40 CITY OF ACAPULCO. 

routine of our tedious and most fatigiiing passage, and if the reader will 
fancy one hundred and twenty prisoners, sitting or lounging listlessly 
about the deck, subjected to the rays of a scorching sun, sometimes as 
high as 100° of Fahrenheit in the cabin, with often scarcely a breath to 
temper its ardor, while our vessel gradually rose and fell to the gentle 
undulations of a calm and lake-like sea, and bear in mind the enerva- 
ting influence of the climate, both bodily and mentally, he will have an 
idea of the tedium, the trials, the dcsagrcniens of the voyage. 

Crossing the Gulf of Tehuantepec, where we eiicountered head- winds 
and a rough sea, we ran up to the coast of Oaxaca, here bold and high, 
and as night drew on, noticed a huge flame issuing from one of the in- 
land mountain-peaks, alternately subsiding and darting upward. We 
soon recognized it as one of the numerous volcanoes that prevail on the 
coast of Central America, and in the interior of Mexico. It lighted up 
the horizon for some distance round, with a lurid glare. 

The succeeding ten days were a constant succession of calms, during 
which time, to use the not very elegant but certainly expressive phrase 
of Captain P., we were " flogging a toad through tar I" A most wel- 
come breeze at last relieved us from this annoyance, and in the space of 
twenty-four hours we made more progress than we had done in the pre- 
vious ten days ; and about four o'clock on the morning of Thursday, the 
29th of March, we found ourselves off the entrance to the harbor of 
Acapulco. While in the offing, we were boarded by a black pilot, and 
a yellow little Mexican in full uniform, the commander of the fort, at- 
tended by one of his black guards, who remained with us tiU we reached 
the place. The entrance into the harbor is very striking. The shores 
of the Pacific here, are bold and high, completely concealing the town 
from view. Through a cleft in the hills, an arm of the sea runs up, 
into which we steered, and surrounded by rugged hills and lofty moun- 
tains, sailed for about two miles, till we came to a turn in the bight. 
A fresh breeze from the ocean swept us on, when a most beautiful little 
bay, bounded on all sides by mountains whose tops mingled with the 
clouds, was presented to view. The town rested on its shores, and the 
fort stood upon an eminence in advance, over which the Mexican green, 
white, and red flag soon floated, as we approached with the union-jack 
flying at our gaff". We ran in between the town and fort, and cast an- 
chor alongside of two little Mexican schooners, the ordy vessels in port. 

We were soon surrounded by canoes, filled with fi'uits, which the 
half-naked boatmen were eager to sell, and the jabber and scenes of 
Panama, Gorgona, and Chagres, were renewed. 

Accompanied by some half a dozen of the party, I went ashore, and 
was somewhat disappointed in my expectations, in regard to the extent 
and general appearance of Acapulco. The houses, consisting of mud 
with brick-tiled roofs, and reed with thatch coverings, are generally 
but ono story in height, the eaves extending so far over as to shelter the 
foot-way. Though cleaner and neater-looking, there was not great dis- 
similarity between many parts of this place and the towns on the 
Isthmus. Here were the palm-leaf hackalas, the palm and cocoanut 
trees, the dogs, the pigs, the jabber, and the half-covered natives ; these, in 
their general appearance, and in their habits, with lew exceptions, par- 
took of the same characteristics as those in the places referred to. They 



ATTEMPT TO SLEEP ON SHORE. 4] 

consisted of blacks, and all intermediate shades to the nearly white, 
some with AVooUy heads, showing; presence ot" African blood, and others 
with straight or curly hair and high cheek-bones, denoting their Spanish 
and Aztec origin. Here was evidently much more pretension, however, 
than among the inhabitants of the Isthmus. Nor did they, particularly 
their miserable-looking soldiers, appear to manifest much love lor " los 
Americanos," their imprecations and scowling looks occasionally, as we 
passed them, telling their feelings too plainly to be mistaken. 

Though a much older place, being famous as the point whence Cortcz 
fitted out many of his memorable expeditions on the Pacific, Acapulco 
has not the venerable nor city-like aspect of Panama, and is much 
smaller, containmg not over 2,500 inhabitants. In 1818, a considera- 
ble portion of the town was destroyed by an earthquake, traces of which 
are still visible in the fallen towers and dilapidated walls of an old stone 
convent. These and other ruins, together with the volcanic character 
of the soil and lava lying about, attest the truth of nature's convul- 
sions. 

Fatigued from even a short stroll, after our close imprisonment of 
forty-one days, the latter two weeks of which we were allowanced with 
bad water and wretched provisions, we were glad to seek rest in a 
"Fonda," or eating-house, where, with coffee, chocolate, eggs, and 
rolls, we were regaled and invigorated. Our polite host offered us 
ample accommodations for the night, which, when we came to test, 
after again perambulating the town till we were thoroughly fatigued, 
were not altogether in accordance with our home ideas of comfort. We 
were placed on tables and in hammocks under the piazza or shed, sur- 
rounding the little square court-yard or open space, in wliich were con- 
gregated pigs, chickens, ducks, dogs, and divei's kinds of emptyings from 
" pots, kettles, and pans." The sonorous breathing of most of the party 
soon told that they were in the land of dreams. Half an hour had not 
elapsed before the shrill crowing of roosters, almost at our ears, startled, 
and, of course, quickly awakened all by the unusual sound. As this 
exercise of the chanticleers continued hourly, thereafter, till morning, 
besides the loud crunching, grunting, and squealing of the pigs, the 
barking of the dogs, and last, though not least, the biting of the fleas, 
sleep was most effectually banished, and, before dawn, we left our ham- 
mocks and tables any thing but refreshed by this our first night in Aca- 
pulco. 

Starting on a tour of exploration, we soon reached the market, Avhich 
we found crowded and wetl-stocked with a variety of familiar-looking 
as well as unknoAvn vegetables and all kinds of tropical fruits, and 
beef cut in strips and hung on ropes. Fish were abundant. Paying 
%in medio for some boiled milk, which the little brov/n muchacha 
poured from a large earthern jar, and handed to us in a cocoanut shell, 
we continued our stroll to the hill on which the fort is situated, and 
had a fine view of the surrounding countiy. Looking towards the bay, 
we noticed a vessel at anchor that before we had not seen. She had 
arrived the previous evening, and proved to be the British sloop-of-war 
" Calypso," having been stationed in the Pacific for some time, engaged 
in making explorations and a chart of the wliole coast. Her ollicers 
afterward informed us, that we would probably be forty or fifty days 



42 ALMOST A BATTLE. 

longer on our passage to San Francisco. She was said to have nearly 
two millions of" specie on board, collected at the difi'erent ports along the 
coast. In the course of the morning she saluted the ibrt, which, in re- 
turning, the Mexican's powder gave out, and they had to borrow suffi- 
cient from their visitor to fire the requisite number of guns ! 

Returned from our perambulations, about nine o'clock we sat down 
to a most sumptuous breakfast, prepared by mine host of the Fmida, 
and served in the same place and on the identical tables we had occu- 
pied the night before I It consisted of fried chickens, stewed beef, 
J tomatoes and onions, fresh fish fried with omelet, cofiee, chocolate, bread, 
and milk, for which we each paid " uno peso," or one dollar, and 
almost alarmed our attentive host with the keen appetites that did 
such ample justice to his bountiful supply. 

On our arrival, we found about twenty persons here, "who came by 
the Vera Cruz route across the country. They described the privations 
and hardships they endured by the way as perfectly terrible. Some had 
been here for two months. Eighteen of these poor fellows the captain 
agreed to take on board. With this arrangement the authorities were 
disposed to interfere, on the ground that our vessel now had more than 
the complement of passengers allowed by law. The true secret of their 
interference, however, was, that one of their number owned the schooners 
lying in the harbor, already alluded to, and was desirous to have these 
men as passengers to Mazatlan, some, in their anxiety to get ofl^ having 
already partly engaged a passage. Our arrival altered their views, as 
the little schooner would not sail for six weeks, and would only carrj-^ 
them as far as Mazatlan. 

It was threatened, that if we attempted to take these men, the guns 
of the fort should be opened upon us, and we would not be permitted to 
leave the harbor. Brother Jonathan and John Bull would not endure 
this arbitrary and high-handed threat, and it was strongly urged that 
we should attack and take the town, and spike their guns, our own 
boys being ripe for any such mischief, their two days ashore having 
rather heated than cooled their fiery blood. The officers of the " Ca- 
lypso" promised to batter down the place if we were molested or a gun 
was fired at us. These rumors were soon spread through the town, by 
some of our independant and valiant boys, and the poor Mexicans were 
so alarmed lest our threat should be executed, that an order was at 
once issued to allow no one to land with a weapon of any kind, and our 
additional passengers were permitted to depart without opposition. 



WEIGH ANCUOR. 43 



CHAPTER VI. 

Weigh Anchor. — An Omen. — Death of " the Old Man." — Cabns and Head- Winds. — 
Views of the Coast. — Volcano of Colima. — Cape Corrientes. — Magnificent Sunset. — 
"'Bout Ship." — Gulf of California. — Cliilling Atmosphere. — Its Effects. — First 
View of Lower California. — Cape Palmas. — Beautiful Scene. — Cape St. Lucas. — 
Halo of Glory. — A Steamer. — Head- Winds and Currents.~Cape Falso. — Rugged 
Coast. — Disagreeable Weather. — Discomforts on Board. — Short of Provisions. 
— Incompetency of the Captain. 

By the morning of April the 1st, water and all additional stores were 
provided, and safely deposited on board, and, about two o'clock, to the 
song of the sailors, " Cheerily men, cheerily 0," we weighed anchor ; and, 
returning the cheers of the numbers assembled on the beach to witness 
our departure, we quickly spread our canvas to the breeze, for another 
trial on that treacherous element, the " deep and dark blue ocean." 

One of the sailors deserted at Acapulco, and was not recovered. He 
left a request in writing not to pursue him as he was tired of life, and 
had gone off^ to commit suicide. He had attempted to drown himself on 
a former occasion, but was rescued. The others said it was a bad 
omen at starting. 

Shortly after we got out to sea, I was sent for by an old gentleman, 
a cabin passenger, who expressed a wish to see me. Taking my hand, 
he said, " I vdsh I was off." I told him we were off, and going very 
finely. He replied, " I wish to go somewhere else. This world is a 
humbug, and not worth living for, and I now want to die." He said 
he had sent for me to ask that I would write his will and then adminis- 
ter to him some powerful opiate to hasten his death, for, to use his 
own words, he was " anxious to be off." I endeavored to cheer him 
up, but he persisted in declining any treatment to prolong existence, for, 
with little religious feeling, and no relations, life to him was a desolate 
and cheerless waste. He was a physician, having practiced many 
years in Cuba, and was an educated, intelligent man, speaking several 
languages fluently. A native of Florida, he had traveled the world 
over, and, with the garrulity of age, for he was seventy-two, could re- 
late many interesting incidents of his adventures. He was carried across 
the Isthmus in a hammock, and was now on his way to California, to 
amass a rapid fortune, illustrating the ruling passion strong in death, 
for, when first introduced to him at Panama, I hardly thought he could 
survive a week. It was to the surprise of all, that he endured our trials 
in that " cursed pit," as he termed it, for he scarcely ever left his 
berth. Though hardly able to walk, he was without disease. He was 
prematurely old, and in flesh was a mere skeleton. He directed that 
the little money he had (a few hundred dollars) should be placed by the 
captain in the hands of the governor of Calilbruia, as a nucleus lor 
other endowments to a hospital or some charitable institution there. A 



44 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. 

glass of wine was necessary, occasionally, to sustain him, while this little 
document was being prepared, and I had to guide his hand in signing 
it. The effort exhausted him. He fell back, and soon, thereafter, 
quietly breathed his last. His remains were committted to the deep. 
Adieu, old man ! 

The first ten days following our departure from Acapulco, were di- 
versified with calms and strong head- winds, giving somewhat of variety 
to the usual monotony of our voyage hitheito on the Pacific. The wind 
occasionaly blew with much violence, causing a tremendous head-sea, 
over which o-ur vessel labored, as we were compelled to beat in its very 
teeth. At such times she tossed and plunged fearfully, making it diffi- 
cult to stand on deck or sit at table, and causing considerable seasick- 
ness, but without disturbing my equilibrium, for I was only sick of the 
sea. The atmosphere was also sensibly changed, and had become mnch 
colder. 

As we stood off and on the land, which all along the coast was bold, 
rugged, and mountainous, we enjoyed many beautiful and picturesque 
views. For three days and nights the volcano of Colima was in full 
view, and m full blast. It was one hundred miles distant from us, 
when first seen. Situated thirty miles from the coast, on a towering 
peak 12,000 feet in height, the enormous flames issuing from its crater, 
presented a magnificent sight from the deck of our vessel. 

On the 11th we came in view of Cape Corrientes, a bold headland, 
jutting far out into the ocean ; and, as evening approached, we ran so 
near as distinctly to see the heaving aud hear the thundering of the 
breakers, as with a deep sullen roar they dashed the spray far and wide 
on the rock-bound coast. The high mountains in the interior of Mexico 
were directly in front and alongside of us. One of those glorious sun- 
Bets, which on the Pacific are so remarkable, and of such frequent oc- 
currence, was here presented to our admiring gaze in all its grandeur 
and sublimity. Nowhere had I seen such gorgeous lines, such fantastic 
shapes among the clouds, and such rich blending of colors, reflected in 
a thousand lovely tints on mountain, sea, and sky, as we here witnessed ; 
ocean, earth, and air were lit up with the splendor of the brilliant 
spectacle. 

Soon the skipper's well-known voice was heard to " 'bout ship." " 'Bout 
ship" was echoed along the decks. " Helm hard-a-lee," " Tacks and 
sheets," " Mahisail haul," " Fore t'bowliii." " Let go and haul," were 
repeated at brief intervals ; which orders being accomplished, brought 
the vessel round, and with the flight of a sea-bird she cut her way 
through the rolling billows, heading boldly out into the Gulf of Cali- 
fornia or Sea of Cortez. 

For the next five days we were out of sight of land, during which time 
a most decided change was perceptible in the air, the weather becoming 
quite cool before we approached Cape St. Lucas at the opposite en- 
trance to the Gulf. Most of us were glad to resume warmer clothing 
and thick overcoats. Some contracted severe colds from inattention to 
these matters, the relaxed condition of their systems being unable to 
resist the sudden chilling influence of the atmosphere. 

About six o'clock on the morning of the 16th we descried a dim 
loomiiig of distant land, which was soon recognized as the southeastern- 



HEAD -WINDS AND CURRENTS. 45 

most part of Lower California, known as Cape Palmas. As tlie day 
advanced, the bold coast and bliifi" hills became more distinct, and by- 
evening M^e had a line view of the whole rang-e, beginning at Cape St. 
Lncas, to which we were heading, and extending eastward as far as the 
eye could reach ; the glowing beams of a magnificent sunset, tipping 
every momitain peak and crested wave. Most welcome was the sight 
to us, for M'e had long wished to gaze on the shores of California, and 
though still far distant from ovir journey's end, here was an adjacent 
territory bearing that name, which when we first beheld it was encir- 
cled in a halo of glory. We accepted the omen I 

We had approached to within half a mile of Cape St. Lucas, Avhen 
the order, " All hands 'bout ship," was again heard, and with a spank- 
ing breeze we flew off on the surging sea, and received such a tossing 
and tumbling, as made it difficult to hold on even in our berths and 
hammocks. On deck the air was raw and chilling, and the heavy 
night dew made it most uncomfortable. 

The following day we stood in for the Cape, hoping to be able to 
weather it. About twelve o'clock, the cry of " Steamer, Steamer," 
was echoed around, and we were soon congregated on deck, to wit- 
ness the wonder. All was excitement, in hopes she would draw near, 
and enable us to dispatch a line to distant friends. We watched her 
intensely and eagerly till she had passed the Cape, when our fond 
anticipations were crushed, by seeing her stand off in the direction 
of Mazatlan. Her fires were not lighted. She was sailing beautifully, 
favored by the wind and current, against which we almost in vain 
were contending. 

Finding we could make no progress, the tremendous current and 
furious wind which swept down the coast driving us rapidly astern, we 
again stood out to sea, and for three days were tossing, heaving, and 
tumbling about, and sometimes flying through the water at the rate of 
ten knots, before we could double the stormy Cape. At last it was 
accomplished, and we then slowly passed around Cape Falso, the 
southwestern extremity of Lower California. The appearance of the 
coast was rugged, and though picturesque had a sterile look ; little 
vegetation being perceptible. 

For the next two weeks, we continued to beat against a violent 
wind almost amounting to a gale, rough head-sea, and powerful cur- 
rent, and of course made little progress. The foggy drizzling weather 
and chilling atmosphere were most uncomfortable. Superadded to 
these, and throughout the voyage, there were other discomforts on 
board, which, with the least care and attention on the part of the 
officers, could have been readily corrected. We vowed to have nothing 
more to do with British barks, for of all the insubordination, careless- 
ness, and filth ever witnessed on board a ship, that exhibited on the John 
Ritson exceeded. All wei'e outraged at the condition of things, so dillereut 
from what they had been led to anticipate at Panama. They con- 
tinued to grow from bad to worse, and it was now seriously contem- 
plated to relieve the officers from all further duty till we got to Sau 
Francisco. Neither cooks, stewards, or others, were under the least 
subordination, and managed matters to suit their own convenience ; the 
captain never troubling himself about them, let things become ever 



46 SHORT OF PROVISIONS. 

so desperate. When remonstrated with, his invariable reply was, that 
" things had not got regulated yet ;" but this want of regulation at- 
tended us to the close of the voyage. The natural consequence was, 
that every thing was served in the most slovenly manner to the 
steerage, and at any hour ; many being fortunate in procuring a mouth- 
ful to eat ; while the dirty, musty, and half-boiled rice cooked in sea-water 
for the cabin, was set out on a table-cloth so filthy, that a servant at 
home would never have attempted to use it for wiping a greasy floor, 
without first rinsing it thoroughly. The very sight of it, apart from 
the unsavory odor it emitted, was sickening and disgusting I 

The result of all this was, that the greatest waste occurred, and we 
found ourselves six hundred miles from land short of water, and with 
no other provisions than a little brown flour and musty rice on board. 
Captain H., who had proved an efficient volunteer in attending to the 
wants of his fellow-passengers, as far as he was able, was therefore 
appointed to take charge of these, and furnish daily rations of the 
meagre fare to every man ; and had it not been that we were drawing 
towards the close of our long and tedious voyage, the vessel herself 
would probably have been taken out of the hands of her command- 
er. He had proved himself totally incompetent to have charge of a 
passenger-ship. She was in a filthy condition when we first came on 
board, and the necessity of at once correcting this evil was pointed out, 
but our advice was disregarded. Had we not taken this matter in 
hand ourselves, and been extremely cautious to have the ship thor- 
oughly cleansed and fumigated with tar, and daily sprinkled with a 
solution of chloride of lime, while in the low hot latitudes, an epidemic 
must in a few days have broken out, that would have resulted most 
disastrously, and probably have carried off* half our number. The fever 
which afflicted so many at that time, and from which three died, 
though in a measure the consequence originally of over-exertion super- 
added to atmospheric causes, was evidently infectious in its character. 
The absence of cleanliness everywhere observable on board, contributed 
in no small degree to the first impressions and subsequent attacks of 
the disease, which was only arrested by the prompt sanitory measures 
we adopted. 



AN mCIDENT AND A LUXURY. 47 



CHAPTER VII. 

Our Sensations on a First View of Alta California. — Dismal Appearance of the Coast. 
— Fogs. — An Incident and a Luxury. — Coast between Saint Louis Obispo and San 
Miguel. — Fropusiiion for an Enterprise. — High Sea. — A Beautiful Sight. — A Gale. 
— Liquid Fire. — Ocean in Flames. — Amusing Occurrences. — Point Finos. — Pleasant 
Weather. — Terrific Hail Storm. — A Paradise. — Off the Bay of San Francisco. — 
The Chrysopyle. — Magnificent Scene. — Bird Island. — Anchor in the Bay of Saa 
Francisco. 

O.v the eleventh of May, hungry and shivering with cold, and 
wrapped up in all the coats and blankets we could lay hands on, we had 
the first view of the coast of Alta CaHfbrnia. It had a cheerless, 
bleak, and desolate look, to which the hazy, damp, and chilly atmo- 
sphere greatly contributed, as with a sliti' breeze and heavy sea we ran 
to within half a mile of the rugged and rock-bound shore. The land 
in view was near San Louis Obispo, which stands a few miles in the 
interior. So dense had been the log latterly, that, even when lour hun- 
dred miles at sea, vision was restricted to within half a mile around 
the vessel, but as we approached the coast it was somewhat dissipated. 
We sailed to within three miles, of what in clear weather could have 
been distinguished at thirty miles distance, before the land was seen. 

Soon " ready about" sounds along the decks, and we fly off in an op- 
posite direction. 

A little incident occurred to-day, which I think worth recording. A 
man was seen on the quarter-deck with a dried herring in one hand and a 
slice of uncooked ham in the other, that alternately were carried to his 
mouth in a most voracious mamier I He was at once surrounded, to 
know whence these heretofore unknown luxuries were obtained. We 
soon learned that two steerage passengers were the fortunate owners of a 
box of Scotch herring and a ham, small portions of which they were retail- 
ing at enormous prices. (otuick as thought they were besieged, and re- 
alized handsome profits on their small investment, for Ibrtunate was he 
who procured a herring, as they made no unsavory addition to our 
brown biscuit. 

The following morning we again stood in for the shore ; and the green 
verdure of the lofty hills, and the bright yellow flowers which decked 
the long stretches of meadow-land, tinged by the meridian sun as we 
approached, presented so attractive and inviting a landscape that some 
half a dozen of us made a proposition to the captain to be put ashore 
here, that we might proceed by land to San Francisco. The point was 
about midway between San Louis Obispo and San Miguel, our inten- 
tion being to proceed to eitlyjr of these places on foot, where it was 
supposed horses or mules could be purchased, by which we would be 
enabled to see the country, and pass through Monterey on our route, feel- 
ing confident of reaching San Francisco before the vessel. The proposal 
was assented to, and arms, ammunition, and all that was requisite for 



48 OCEAIf IN FLAMES. 

such an expedition, were quickly got ready, but as we drew near the 
coast, the surf ran so high, and the wind blew so furiously from the 
shore, that the captain deemed it unsafe to risk our disembarkation, fear- 
ful that his boat would be upset or stranded on the beach. Most reluc- 
tantly, therefore, we were compelled to abandon the enterprise for a 
more auspicious occasion, if such should px-esent. 

" Ready about" was the cry, as we bid adieu to the shore, and dashed 
into the open sea. A short time thereafter we descried a small brigan- 
tine standing on the same tack with ourselves. As the wind was 
freshening and the waves running mountains high, it was a most inter- 
esting sight to watch her from our decks. Sometimes she would seem 
to be almost engulfed by the waters, and anon she would bound for- 
ward, riding high on the top of an immense wave, displaying her broad- 
side, coppered bottom, and keel to view, and fairly leaping from the 
ocean, which instantly would again conceal all but a speck of her white 
canvas as she sunk into the yawning chasm made by the rolling sea. 
It was a beautiful sight. The breeze continued to freshen, and by even- 
ing it was found necessary to close reef all the topsails. It was well 
that this precaution was adopted, for heavy lowering clouds had for 
some time portended a storm, and it soon whistled a gale, producing a 
melancholy, wailing sound through the ropes and slii'ouds as we plunged 
forward amid the howling billows. As the darkness increased the spec- 
tacle was grand beyond conception, for as wave succeeded wave, rolling 
past and around us, they presented the appearance of liquid fire, while 
far away in the black nig lit sheets of flame would seem to start up 
from crested waves, which fell off in brilliant sparkles, subsiding into 
the surrounding sea. Our bark rode gracefully and majestically, rising 
and sinkhig in gallant style with the heaving billows. The wmd sighed 
and whistled through her rigging, and the waves dashed and roared 
against her sides as she ploughed her way over the foaming deep, scat- 
tering the bright scintillations far and wide, and apparently sailing in 
an ocean of flame. * 

By morning the fury of the gale was spent, but a heavy sea and 
strong head-wind still continued to throw the spray high into the air, 
and sluice the decks from stem to stern. Most of the passengers were 
lounging in the sun, as the atmosphere was intensely keen and nipping, 
and many an unlucky wight caught it, to tlie uproarious delight oi' those 
who escaped the drenching. Many a poor fellow lost his only hat or 
cap to-day. 

On the 16th, we ran towards Point PinDs. The coast a few miles 
below was immensely high and precipitous, rising nearly perpendicular 
from the water's edge, topped by a few giant-like and desolate-looking 
pines. The mountains beyond, serried by deep chasms and ravines, 
looked very imposing and very grand, but, with the exception of slight 
patches of green verdure, very dark and very bleak. 

* Tliis phosphoresrence of tlie ocean, I had repeatedly witnessed in tropical lati- 
tudes, but never to the same extent as on this occasion. It is mainly attributable to 
the luminous light of tlie various tribes of medusae, the gelatinous mollusca?, and 
other analogous bodies, which in countless numbers rest on the waves or float be- 
neath the surface. A volume has been written on this subject. — See, " Auimalcula 
Infusoria fluviatilia et marina," by 3fulkr. 



BAY OF SAK FRANCISCO. 49 

On the following day we crossed the outlet of the open roadstead at 
Monterey. The air had an agreeable warmth, not unlike a spring day 
at home, and a humming-bird flew across the deck, giving evidence of a 
land of sunshine and flowers. In the afternoon we had a rain, a squaU, 
and a brilliant sunset, and in the evening a terrific hail-storm, with 
loud crashes of thunder and vivid lightning. It seemed strange to us, 
that all this should occur at such a season of the year, so near the 
Paradise we had been accustomed to think and read of 

The mornhig of the 18th opened beautifully, over the California hills. 
There were several vessels in sight, and the land looked most inviting. 
All wore an animated and cheerful aspect. Congratulations were 
interchanged and a smile lit up every countenance, so happy and joyous 
were all to have the prospect of a speedy delivery from their thralldom. 
We were now off the entrance to the Bay of San Francisco, though becalm- 
ed. Soon heavy clouds began to appear. The atmosphere became 
hazy and murky, and a damp, cold, unpleasant wind drove us forward. 
At half-past five o'clock, p. m., we reached the narrowest part of the 
entrance, termed the " Chrysopyle," or " Golden Gate," when suddenly 
the brilliant beams of the declining sun broke forth from what had 
hitherto been a dull and leaden sky. The eflect on our spirits was 
most cheering, and on the landscape very beautiful. The distance 
from shore to shore was about two miles On either hand were bright 
green knolls rising abruptly from the margin of the water in the form 
of calcareous rock at the base, and terminating in peaks, whose 
gradually sloping and gracefully rounded sides, wore an appearance of 
the richest velvety verdure. Myriads of water-fowl floated round us. 
The whole character of the entrance, with the noble bay stretching out 
in front, studded with islands, on which the last rays of the departing 
sun yet Hngered, was very striking ; all description of it failing to 
convey to the mind an adequate impression of its beauty and magnifi- 
cence. 

Having passed this truly Golden Gate, and rounded the point oppo- 
site the little globular Bird Island, so called from the quantity of water- 
fowl that are constantly resting on or floating over it, and the deposit of 
guano that has whitened its surface, we ran into the harbor. The 
brig Col. Fremont, arrived at the same time, having sailed from 
Baltimore a few days before we left, and among a fleet of a hundred 
vessels, we cast anchor off the celebrated to\^^^ of San Francisco. Now 
such a shouting and cheering as arose from the two vessels, was enough 
to have startled the inhabitants on shore, if such noises had not been 
familiar to their ears. 

3 



50 A SCUFFLE TO GET ON SHORE. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

ATo-wnof Wood and Musliii. — Deserted Ships. — California Prices. — A Scuffle to get 
on Shore. — Famished Voyagers. — High-Pressure System. — Blasplieniy, (toIiI, and 
Gambhng. — Camp on Shore. — Desertion of Crew. — Death of Captaui. — Climate of 
San Francisco contrasted with Beuicia and Sancohto. 

The town in front of us consisted of tents and scattered frame- 
tenements, a few presenting quite a neat and cottage-like aspect, either 
resting in the amphitheatre made by the surrounding barren-looking 
hills, or picturesquely perched on their sides. The question which was 
very forcibly suggested to the mind at first view was, Avhat commercial 
mducements could such a mean and insignificant-looking place as this 
present, to bring together such a forest of masts as the harbor dis- 
closed ? We soon learned that every vessel which had arrived since 
the first discovery of gold in the country, was quickly deserted by its 
crew, and left to idly swing at its cable's length ; however anxious the 
captains or owners might be to depart, it was impossible to man a ship 
with a sufficient number to work her to the nearest port. The wages 
for even a common laborer in the town were higher per day than a 
sailor was accustomed to receive monthly. 

Desirous to see a place offering so many attractions, and to again step 
foot on terra jirma, some half a dozen of us engaged one of the boats that 
were quickly along side, and were at once indoctrinated with California 
prices, a trip of a quarter of a mile costing us twelve dollars. Arrived 
at the shore, each seemed anxious to be the first to step foot on the 
soil, and in the eagerness and haste which followed, some measured 
their length on the sand, and others were knocked sprawling into the 
bottom of the boat ; and amid many merry peals of laughter, we climbed 
the steep and rugged hill, proceeded to the post-office, and sought a 
cook-shop. Long abstinence had sharpened the appetite, for we were 
almost famished, and did full justice to the beefsteak, bread, butter, and 
cofi(3e that were set before us. 

The state of affairs here we found to be on the high-pressure princi- 
ple, and truly anomalous. Without going into lengthened details, it will 
suffice to state that unoccupied ground, thought to be in an eligible 
location, met with ready sale and at higher rates, than the same amount 
would bring in the most business parts of any of the great cities of the 
union. Pistols were fired in rapid succession in every direction. Horses 
with their drunken riders were dashing through the town, the gay 
serwpa and other gaudy trappings flying in the wind. Blasphemous 
oaths Avere heard on all sides. The vice of gambling prevailed to an 
enormous extent. Immense piles of gold, in its natural state and in 
coin, could be seen heaped upon the numerous monte and roulette tables. 
Owing to the high rents which the proprietors of these places are able 



CLIMATE OF SAN FRANCISCO. 51 

and willing to pay, it has contributed to give a fictitious value to prop- 
erty. Most of the titles to land sold or leased being of the same char- 
acter, I have know^n as many as sLk claimants for one lot. A revulsion 
will come, and much litigation must ensue. 

The next day was chiefly occupied in removing our baggage from the 
vessel to an outside spot we had selected for camping on, where, pro- 
tected from the northwest winds that prevail, but overlooking the town 
and bay, we pitched our tents. In the afternoon we were visited by 
the ship's crew, all having deserted to a man, during the temporary 
absence of the captain ; he and the first mate, with two small boys, 
being all that were left to take charge of the "John Ritson." Nor 
was this all, for the poor captain himself was drowned in the bay on 
the succeeding night, in endeavoring to recover an oar which had fallen 
overboard from a small boat, in which he and another were quitting the 
beach. He had often said during the passage, that many on board 
would leave their bones in California. Poor fellow, he was the first to 
fulfil his augury. It was a sad termination to his voyage, and though 
few had cause for kindly remembrances, yet all grieved at his melan- 
choly fate. 

The climate of San Francisco we found any thing but agreeable. In 
the forepart of the day, the sun was intensely hot, but from eleven or 
twelve o'clock, a cold raw northwest wind, would set in from the ocean, 
which by night would nearly amount to a gale, scattering the fine par- 
ticles of dust and sand in every direction. This would often be attended 
with a thick heavy fog, which made the nights most disagreeable. By 
sundown all would be calm, but the atmosphere was chilly and unpleas- 
ant. The transition from the heat of the morning to the cool of the 
evening, was frequently so sudden and unexpected, that those not 
familiar to the climate, were often in situations where they could not 
make the change of clothing that was requisite ; and severe colds, not 
unfrequently settling upon the lungs, were apt to be the result of these 
exposures. I noticed that all who had any tendency to disease of the 
chest, suffered during their stay in San Francisco, Nor was I surprised 
at tliis ; but it will cause me much more surprise to learn, that many 
who have never Been afflicted with pulmonary complaints, have not 
here laid the foundation of incurable consumption. Some instances of 
this latter came under my observation during my brief continuance 
there. The wretched, brackish water from the wells at San Fran- 
cisco is another objection to the place, as it is very liable to cause serious 
and fatal mischief The mortality from dysenteric complaints during 
the past summer and fall, was truly frightful, and almost every one, 
even among the older residents, during those months, suffer from this 
cause. 

Upon the whole, in a medical point of view, I would not regard San 
Francisco as the most desirable locality for a large commercial city, 
which the requirements of our great western continent will so soon 
demand, and the emigration there will so soon call into existence. 
The positions of Benicia or Sancolito would be far preferable in this 
respect, while their other advantages would be equal if not superior to 
those of San Francisco. The latter of the two certandy presents many 
inducements to the enterprising capitalist, while the former, from its 



52 EATING ONE'S SELF. 

being the point of our naval station, must always hold a prominent 
place. Sancolito, situated on a beautiful little bay of that name, within 
the northern termination of the entrance from the sea, is admirably shielded 
from the northwest winds which prevail at San Francisco, and the harbor 
itself is even superior to the latter, vessels of the largest class being 
able to anchor close to the shore, in a position of the most perfect 
security, while here is their main reliance for obtaining supplies of good 
water. These advantages must in time tell on its prosperity, and 
though a powerful impulse has been given to San Francisco, I should 
greatly prefer the position of Sancolito for a residence, and doubt not 
but it will eventually become, if not tlie city, one of the great cities of 
the Pacific. 



CHAPTER IX. 



Start for the Sacramento. — Packing in a Launch. — Eating One's Self. — Golden 
Rock. — Adventures in Pur.suit of Eggs. — Dangert)us Situation. — Brothers and 
Sisters. — Straits of Pablo. — Bay of Sonoma. — Straits of Karquines. — Sleeping 
on Board. — Breakfast on Shore. — Reminiscences of Schooner Sovereign. — A 
Pleasant Walk. — Benicia. — A Naval Station. — Suisan Bay. — A Famous City. — 
Its Advantages to Miners. — Enter the Sacramento. — Appearance of the Shores. — 
Sloughs. — Thule Mar.shes. — Nurseries for Disease. — Mosquitoes. — Tramp through 
a California Thicket. — Barber's Ranch. — A Philosopher. — Indian Rancheria. — 
Wild Geese and Ducks. — Sierra Nevada. — Suttersville. — Embarcadero. 

Desirous of freeing ourselves from the motley crowd around us, consist- 
ing of the natives of almost every clime, with a smart sprinkling of convicts 
from New South Wales, we struck our tent from the hill-side, and em- 
barked for the Sacramento on board a small schooner or launch, rejoicing in 
the name of " Susannetta." Our number consisted of thirty-five, including 
the crew of four men, and huddled together on this little vessel, already 
stowed full without ourselves and baggage, we started across the bay. 
Having to provide our own fare, or, as one of the party facetiously ex- 
pressed it, " to eat ourselves," and sleep on deck, or among the mos- 
quitoes of the thule marshes on shore, we were kindly accommodated 
with a passage on this diminutive craft, for all which privileges we were 
permitted to pay the sum of twenty-five dollars apiece. 

After a few hours sailing before a pleasant westerly breeze, we ap- 
proached a small island called Golden Rock, from the color of the soil. 
The sides were nearly perpendicular from the water's edge, and were 
covered with thousands of water-fowl. Here several of our adventurous 
spirits expressed a desire to go ashore in pursuit of eggs, which are 
found in great numbers. This request was readily acceded to, by our 
obliging captain promising to lay to till their return. Not caring to 
make one of the party, I remained on board and watched their pro- 
ceedings. They suffered considerably for their sport, having to climb 



BREAKFAST ON SHORE. 53 

steep banks of loose red sand, dust, and feathers, in which at each step 
they would sink to the knee, and, with nothing to hold by, were mo- 
mentarily threatened with a plunge into the ocean below. Having with 
much toil and no little trepidation accomplished their object, by ob- 
taining half a score of most singularly colored and mishapen eggs in their 
basket, they prepared to return. Here again they were doomed to 
trouble, ibr the strong northwest wind from the ocean having set in, and 
the surf running very high, their little boat shipped much water, and 
was on the eve of capsizing as they came along side, glad enough to step 
foot on deck, and vowing not to be again caught hi such a scrape. 
Apart from their dangers by land and water, the fine guano-dust of the 
island had nearly suiibcated them, and each looked like a terrified red 
Indian, who had just been subjected to the administration of a plentiful 
coating of tar and feathers. 

Continuing our course we passed the four rocks called Brothers and 
Sisters, at the entrance to the Straits of Pablo, which unites the 
Bay of San Francisco, properly so called, to Pablo Bay, or Bay of 
Sonoma. Crossing this we entered the Straits of Karquines. The 
tide turning against us, about nine o'clock we cast anchor under a bold 
bluff, near the shore of the Straits, and prepared to pass the night as 
best we could. The air was cold and disagreeable, and with 
our blaidiets closely wrapped around us, we threw ourselves on the 
deck, in the first vacant space that presented ; some were compelled 
to make pillows of their neighbors, but all slept soundly till " the peep 
0' day." 

Tlie morning had scarcely opened, when " all hands tumble up" was 
the cry, and we continued our course till we arrived at a suitable land- 
ing-place, and again cast anchor, when "all hands" went ashore with 
their cooking utensils to prepare breakfast. Fires were soon lighted on 
the gravelly beach at the foot of a lofty hill, and savory odors streamed 
forth from pot, kettle, and skillet. My ov«i party had the advantage 
of others, in possessing Jimmy, the ever-famous and never-to-be-forgotten 
Jimmy, colored steward of the schooner Sovereign, who with the cap- 
tain and mate had accompanied us thus far, the vessel having returned 
to " the States" in charge of a friend, whom the captain met at Chagres. 
Poor Jimmy, he had a sad time of it on the Pacific ; for from the 
moment of our leaving Taboga, till after the " old man" departed this 
mortal life, the villainous fever hung about him, which had afflicted so 
many, and often did he say to me, " Ah doctor, I'll be the next to go 
overboard 1" With much care, however, he recovered, and was now 
equal to the task of cooking a breakfast with any. We found him quite 
an acquisition, and never will I forget poor Jimmy, with his broad- 
brimmed hat, big eyes, and sober-looking phiz. 

^ After discussing the goodly mixtures of the aforesaid Jimmy, a party 
of us, each armed with gun or rifle, started ofT on a stroll over the hiUs, 
which were here high and beautifully rolling, and covered with wild oats, 
intending to join the vessel about ten miles further up, opposite Benicia. 
The walk was delightful, and we enjoyed it beyond measure. In the 
distance we could see the timid antelopes grazing on the hill-side, but 
as there were few trees to conceal us from observation, we could not 
come near enough for a shot. We also encountered a wolf ui one of the 



54 ENTER THE SACRAMENTO. 

dark, deep ravines we penetrated, and from a thicket startled two deer, 
which bounded oil' at our approach. 

Having regained the vessel, we continued our course through the 
straits, to where the town of Benicia had been commenced. Here were 
many tents and a lew frame-tenements dotting the extensive plain, but 
without a shrub or tree visible. The U. S. ship Warren was lying in 
the harbor, and we seemed to be objects of special interest to her crew. 
Doubtless many of them would have been glad of an opportmiity to 
desert, and be off to the " diggings." At this point a naval station is 
proposed. Passing from the beautiful little cove, into the extensive but 
shallow waters of Suisan Bay, we ran too close to the shore, out of the 
channel, when our vessel struck, and we found ourselves stranded in 
the mud. It now became necessary to send a line ashore, about half-a- 
mile in advance of our position, to pull her off. With much toil, and 
after a detention of several hours, it was at length accomplished. 
Whilst engaged in this work, a brig, crowded with passengers, came 
sailing onward, and bang she went, being raised three feet. We left 
her sticking fast in the mud. 

By the middle of the afternoon we came opposite to a tract of land, 
barren and desolate enough to look upon, rising in swells like the 
waves of the ocean, with Mount Diablo towering far above it, but 
without a house or tent visible, known to fame as " New- York of the 
Pacific !" It is situated near the mouth of the San Joaquin, which 
waters the southern countiy, and nearly opposite one of the mouths of 
the Sacramento, and is intended for a city, lots being now sold on 
paper at high rates to the miners, many of whom having more gold 
than they had heretofore been accustomed to, are often anxious to make 
a safe investment of a few hundred dollars in real estate. Here the 
opportunity is presented, the happy purchaser doubtless congratulating 
himself on the fortunate turn of events, that had enabled him to dig 
gold from the earth and invest it in permanent town-lots, where it can 
not be lost. 

The bay in this vicinity is studded with little flat islands overgrown 
with brushwood, formerly frequented by numerous bands of beavers, 
where trappers from the Hudson Bay Company were accustomed to 
resort in pursuit of these industrious httle animals. Threading our way 
among these, we crossed to the opposite side and entered the mouth 
of the Sacramento. A few miles further on, we came to what is 
termed a " slough," or lateral branch, passing on again to the main 
branch, through which we sailed, lessening the distance by many 
miles. 

I was greatly surprised and disappointed with the Sacramento. The 
shores were flat and marshy, being overgi'own with thule, a kind of 
light cane, while few trees of any size were to be seen. As we ad- 
vanced, however, they became more numerous and larger, consisting 
cliiefly of scraggy oak and sycamore, the boughs often fringed with a 
light fleecy kind of mistletoe and other parasitical plants. For many 
miles from its entrance into Suisan Bay, the country is cut up with 
" slouglis," and extensive thule marshes are the consequence ; fit 
nurseries for disease, which prevails here to an alarming extent duiing 
the latter part of summer, and in the fall months, when the water is 



A CALIFORNIA THICKET. 55 

low. I can conceive of no part of the Mississippi valley more prolific 
of disease, than the valley of the Sacramento mnst be. 

Towards evening we ran into the shore among the canes, and soon 
had flaming fires kindled with the dried thule and what little wood 
we could discover. These served in some degree to dispel the damp 
night air while supper was being cooked, and the smoke answered a 
good purpose in keeping at bay the innumerable swarms of mosquitoes 
which almost drove us mad. These insects are a pest to the land, 
thousands lighting vipon you at once. Handkerchiefs were in constant 
motion, slapping the face and hands to gain a moment's respite from 
their venomous bites. Unless a strong wind blew, which was sometimes 
the case, sleeping was next to impossible, for even with head, face, and 
hands covered, the blood-thirsty villains would manage to get under our 
blankets, and annoy us almost to death. By the time we reached the 
termination of our cruise, most of us presented the appearance of a 
recent recovery from small-pox. 

After a frugal meal on the following morning, a party of us deter- 
mined to go ashore and walk some fifteen or twenty miles higher up, 
and there await the arrival of the vessel. Her progress was necessarily 
slow, for the windings of the stream were continually changing her 
course, which was also much impeded by the strong currents and eddies 
at these places. We therefore had no fear of being left behind, even if 
we should be delayed in the pursuit of game. Accordingly we shoul- 
dered our arms, and sallied forth for a tramp in a Cahibrnia thicket, 
and such a tramp as it proved, we care not to repeat. The sun was 
intensely, fiery hot, and not a breath of air was stirring. The walking 
was through tangled underbrush, among dense and almost impenetra- 
ble thule swamps and across streams, which sometimes were difficult 
to pass, while the whole atmosphere was alive with myriads of mosqui- 
toes which tortured us beyond endurance. After walking half the 
distance we had proposed, and beginning to experience that sort of feel- 
ing which induced some of the party to inquire earnestly if the dinner- 
hour had not arrived, we gladly paused under a welcome shade on the 
shore of the stream. Having been unsuccessful in finding game, we 
here concluded to beguile the time by expending our surplus powder in 
firing at a target, and soon the crack of our rifles echoed through the 
air. This became dull work to craving appetites, as hour after hour 
elapsed, and the " Susannetta" came not. Fearing she had passed us 
at some point below, we continued our course, and in a mile or two saw 
a vessel aground on one of the many sand-bars, which, with the snags, 
render the navigation of this river so uncertam and unfit for sailing- 
vessels. As on the Pacific, steamers only are here applicable, and 1 
hope to see the day when none others will float on our waters. Two 
or three were in process of construction then at Benicia and San Fran- 
cisco, intended for the navigation of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, 
the timber and machinery having been brought " round the Horn." 

A lew miles beyond this, we came to a miserable-looking log-hut, 
dignified with the title of " Barber's Ranch." It was tenanted by an 
old man and his two sons, the former of whom we fbund lying under a 
rude sort of mosquito bar, to protect him from the bites of the millions 
that surrounded hun. He received us kindly, but we could not persuade 



56 SIERRA NEVADA. 

the old man to part with one of the three loaves of bread we saw, 
though we had eaten nothing since morning. He showed ns a kind of 
garden, containing some scrubby-looking vegetables, one or two of the 
radishes from which we laid violent hands upon, to allay the cravings 
of hunger, for we begun to be almost famished. When asked how he 
could endure to live here, in the midst of swarms of mosquitoes, he re- 
plied, " the height of the mosquito season had not come on yet, but that 
he had got used to them, and they did not trouble him I" Procuring a 
boat from this philosopher, we crossed the river to a small Indian 
encampment a little higher up, but were here as unsuccessful as before. 
They were a poor, miserable, squalid, dirty-looking set, and most of them 
seemed to be sufieriug from disease of some sort. We noticed many 
whose persons were liideously distorted from rheumatism. A rather 
intelligent white man among them mformed us that the best part of the 
band were out on a hunting expedition, and would not return for some 
days. Finding little to interest and nothing to eat here, we returned to 
what we now learned was an island, the slough reuniting at tliis point 
with the main channel, which passed ofi' in another dii'ection. About 
sunset the " Susamietta" came up, and we were rejoiced to get on 
board. As usual, we ran into the shore at night and kindled our fires 
for supper, which we devoured with the avidity of cormorants, and then, 

wrapped in our blankets, laid down our weary hmbs to fight the 

mosquitoes I 

On the following morning the river was lined for miles in extent, with 
innumerable quantities of wild ducks and geese. These aflbrded capital 
sport for some of our marksmen, the unerrmg aim of one especially, in- 
variably bringing down his game. We entered into this with much 
relish, for the savory odors of roast duck reveled in our fancies, and the 
number shot was no mean addition to our larder. 

As we ascended the river, the shores were higher, and the trees larger 
and more numerous. Beyond these, however, few were to be seen, the 
eye resting on nothing but extensive fields of thule marshes. In the 
afternoon we occasionally caught a view of some of the loftiest jieaks of 
the Sierra Nevada, covered, as their name imports, with a mantle of 
snow. Towards evening we passed an Indian encampment, and soon 
thereafter came in sight of Suttersville, consisting of a lew frame-houses 
and tents. As night drew on, we landed at the " Embarcadero," for- 
merly " Nueva Helvetia," now Sacramento City. This terminated our 
voyage, and here we pitched our tents. 



CURIOUS AND MOTLEY CROWD. 57 



CHAPTER X. 

Sacramento City. — OTerflow of the Rivers. — Gold-Wasliers. — A Curious and Motley- 
Crowd. — Successful Millers. — Disorganized State of Society. — A Singular Occur- 
rence. — Preparation for the Mines. — Ox Team. — A Start. — Sutter's Fort — Sandy 
Plain. — Ferry at the American River. — .What happened there. — Sinclair's Ranch, 
— Fremont's Expedition. — Brilliant Moon. — Bath in American River. — Its Swift- 
ness. — Lovely Morning. — Oppressive Heat. — Wild Flowers. — Desolate Landscape. 
— Picturesque Camp. — A I'liieving Indian. — Coyotes. — Toil-worn Comrades. — 
Fine \'iews. — Lt)nely and Cheerless Scene. — What to believe in California. — Ar- 
lival at the Dry Diggings. 

The position of Sacramento City is at the junction of the American 
River with the Sacramento. It is situated on a broad, extensive flat, 
where a park of fine old oaks rear their giant arms. They extend some 
distance from the river, on the route to Suttpr's Fort, which stands on 
a plain about two miles off. At our first visit, it consisted of a few 
stores and houses, the latter mostly made of muslin covering the frame, 
boards being too high and difficult to get. As at San Francisco, lots 
were selling at enormous rates, and rapidly changing hands at a daily 
advance. The location is not so desirable as at Suttersville, or Sutter, 
to use the more modern synonym. The waters of the Sacramento and 
American rivers rise to a great height during the rainy season, and over- 
flowing the banks, inundate the country for miles. This was the case 
during the winter of 1848-9, when many told me they had sailed in 
boats over the spot where Sacramento City now stands nearly to Sut- 
ter's Fort. Should this be a common occurrence, many, if not most of 
the houses, will be swept away and float down stream, and the lot- 
owners will have to resort to the method formerly practiced in Cairo, at 
the mouth of the Ohio, and search for their localities with a long pole I 
The town of Sutter, which is very prettily situated, stands higher, the 
background rising in swells to a considerable elevation, and I was told, 
had never been subjected to these submergings. 

Little of interest occurring during our short stay here, many of the 
party engaged in the manufacture of gold-washers preparatory for a 
start to the mines. As I did not contemplate entering on the vocation 
of digger, I had little to do with these preliminaries, contenting myself 
with noting the various and singular characters, which from every 
clime were here brought suddenly into intimate companionship. It 
was a curious crowd. Mexicans, Peruvians, Chilians, and Sonorians ; 
English, lri.sh, French, Dutch, Russians, and Swedes ; with Kanakas 
from the Sandwich Islands, and representatives from the Celestial Em- 
pire, were here, with the universal Yankee and native Calilbrnian, 
collected together, as it were in a day, by the powerful attraction of gold. 
Some who had recently returned with a few hundred dollars, after Avhat 
they considered a successful visit to the mines, were most lavish in its 

3* 



58 SUTTER'S FORT. 

expenditure. Paying enormous prices for all they bought, they were ever 
ready to " treat all hands," and from their leathern purses would weigh 
out their three or four ounces with the most lordly nonchalance. Gam- 
bling prevailed to a great extent, and that which had cost the poor 
miner many a week or month of the severest toil man can endure, was 
swept from him in an hour. Debauchery and blasphemy were the con- 
comitants of this vice, and the most revolting oaths that ever fell from 
human lips, seemed to pass as household words in California. It might 
be supposed that frequent conflicts, and scenes of violence and bloodshed, 
would constantly occur as a natural result of this disorganized state of 
society. Such was not the case however, but one act of lawless violence 
having occurred, the oflbnder at once dehvering himself up to the punish- 
ment due to his crime. Theft was of rare occurrence. We were dis- 
posed to account for this from the fact that every man was armed, and 
a degree of restraint was thus imposed, which caused each to respect 
his neighbor's rights. Where it had happened some time previously, in 
one or two instances, the immediate death of the tliief was the conse- 
quence. 

Whilst here, I was waited upon by two men, one of whom walked 
into my tent with his mouth wide open. I learned he had been on a 
drunken frolic, and whooping and yelling as such characters are apt to 
do on these occasions, had fallen and dislocated his lower jaw. This I 
was soon enabled to replace, much to the man's delight, and with many 
protestations and thanks for the relief afforded, he promise to call upon 
me in the afternoon for a settlement of my bill, but I never saw him af- 
terward. 

Having remained here long enough to complete our preparations, we 
engaged a team of ten oxen to convey our luggage some seventy-five 
miles up the country. This cost us thirty dollars per one hundred 
pounds, making the expense for two parties of fifteen persons amount to 
the round sum of seven hundred dollars. We, among others, fell into 
the error of taking more than was necessary to the mines. One strong 
suit, with a change of under-clothing, blankets, and the necessary tools 
for mining operations, are all that are requisite, as such provisions as 
the countiy aflords can be obtained at any of the stores, established in 
every direction in the vicinity of the mines, and those who cannot put 
up with the privations and hardships incident to a hfe of this sort, had 
better stay at home. The mines of California are no places for them. 

We started forward in the afternoon, intending to walk as far as the ferry 
at the American River some eight or nine miles distant, and there await 
the arrival of our team. The first part of the way was over the inter- 
vening space between the town and fort, where we saw herds of cattle, 
horses, and mules grazing, either belonging to a ranch near by, or the 
property of some of the settlers. We never saw wild horses in Cali- 
fornia, nor wild cattle, unless they can be so called Avhich have owners 
at the different ranches throughout the country. Pausmg a few moments 
at " Sutter's Fort," a rude mud edifice, we continued our way over 
a sandy, arid, and unfruitful plain to the American River. Here we 
arrived towards evening, nearly choked with the dust which constantly 
enveloped us, and smarting under the attacks of the imiumerable quantity 
of mosquitoes that ever hovered around us. 



BATH IN AMERICAN RIVER. 59 

In a little time thereafter, we descried our team " winding its slow 
length along." Nearing the ferry, the wheels smik to the hubs in the 
deep mud and sand, and we foxuid it necessary to remove the greater 
part of the load, before they could he extricated. This of course consumed 
some time, and night came on before it was accomplished, and the wagon 
could be driven on to the flat. It was no sooner there, however, 
than confusion arose. The boat was on the point of capsizing, the oxen 
became restive, and a pair yoked together fell overboard. This righted 
the vessel, and they were none the worse for their ducking, but safely 
gained the opposite shore, being carried by the swift current some half a 
mile below. The rest with the wagon were safely gotten over. Here 
liitching to again, with a man at each wheel, it was dragged iip the 
short, but nearly perpendicular hill to the plain above. Near by stood 
" Sinclair's Ranch," the last house it was said, we would meet with on 
the way. 

Selecting a suitable spot, we pitched our tents on the open plain, and 
walked to the ranch, a kind of private house lor public entertainment, 
and ordered supper. This consisted of boiled fresh beef, sour bread, and 
bad cofiee, for which we each paid one dollar. Here we saw one of 
Fremont's men, who had escaped with a remnant of the party, from his 
late trying and most disastrous expedition across the mountains, when 
so many of the number were either starved or frozen to death. The 
poor felloAv had a toil-worn and broken-down appearance. 

In the course of the evening, lighted by a brilliant moon, we enjoyed 
a deUcious bath in the icy-cold water of the river, removing all the dust 
and diit of the afternoon's travel, and preparing us, by the fresh in- 
vigorating influence it imparted, fot the prosecution of our journey on 
the following day. The water, coming with arrowy swiftness direct 
from the melting snow of the Sierra Nevada, was cold as ice itself, and 
clear as crystal. This does not continue, however, for as the summer 
advances it becomes a very mconsiderable stream, and I have forded it 
when the water was warm and unpleasant to the taste, and scarcely 
covered my horse's fetlock. 

The first of June was a lovely morning. The translucent atmo- 
sphere was soft and balmy, and the sky beautifully blue. We started 
early to avoid the heat of the day ; lor experience had taught us that 
this delightful air we now inhaled, would become in a few hours like 
the steam from a furnace. As the day advanced, the rays of the sun 
were most oppressive, with bv;t little shade to protect us from his beams. 
After walking for about sixteen miles, without a drop of water to allay 
our burning thirst, over a parched and arid plain, occasionally relieved 
by a few trees or shrubs, interspersed with some wild flowers, as if in 
mockery of the desolate landscape, we reached the valley of a small 
stream. Here we tarried for some time, partaking of a little refreshment 
and enjoying a most comfortable and refreshing nap beneath the wel- 
come shade. In the afternoon we continued our weary way over the 
same description of country, the loose soil and fine dust making the 
travel exceedingly toilsome and unpleasant. As we occasionally 
mounted a slight elevation above the surrounding plain, we could see 
for miles in extent the hot and lonely path yet to be traversed. Many 
of the party were overcome with fatigue, and exhausted for want of 



60 "WHAT TO BELIEVE IN CALIFORNIA. 

water, before we reached our camping-ground for the night ; and with 
difficulty some of them were brought in. The spot selected was a deep 
dell, the sides in many parts composed of overhanging rocks, in the clefts 
of which grew pines and cedars, wild and picturesque to view, while at 
the bottom gurgled a fine spring of water, overshadowed by the branches 
of some gnarled oaks. Here seated around our camp-fires, we made re- 
peated and desperate attacks on stewed jerked-beef, bread, and coflee, 
The spirits of all were refreshed, as the laugh and the jest went round, 
and no further complaints were heard from our toil-worn comrades. We 
pitched our tents, and were soon in a deep slee]}. From this we were 
aroused, in the middle of the night, by the barking of a dog belonging 
to one of the party. We soon ascertained that he was in pursuit of a 
man, whose figure was distinctly seen running from the camp, as he 
emerged from the dark dell hito the bright moonlight. Gluick as thought, 
half-a-dozen bullets whistled after him. But the range was too long, 
and he was suflered to escape. He was supposed to be a thieving 
Indian, as they were known to prowl about in the night time, in the 
vicinity of camps, to practice their propensity for stealing horses. We 
were undisturbed the rest of the night, except that the coyotes or prairie- 
wolves kept up an incessant angry barking around us, but not sufficient 
to break our slumbers. We arose refreshed, and ready lor an early 
march. 

As the day wore on, many of the party were compelled to mount the 
wagon, being foot-sore, and overcome with fatigue and heat. I was 
peculiarly fortunate in being exempt from all these annoyances, and 
believe I was nearly the only one who did not suffer in some way. The 
travel was peculiarly irksome, and the heat often very intense, but I 
usually felt as fresh at the close as at the beginnmg of the day. 

As we continued to advance, the country assumed a much more 
mountainous character, and we had to climb long, steep, and toilsome 
hills. From the tops of these we had many very fine views of the far- 
ofi', hot, and misty-looking valleys below us, and the snow-capped peaks 
of the lofty Sierra Nevada in front. The hills around were covered 
with pine, cedar, and fir trees, and had a wild, lonely aspect, and 
a peculiarly cheerless and desolate look as the shades oi' evening ap- 
proached. No sign of bird or animal was anywhere visible. As usual 
we had a nooning, and at night encamped in a thick wood adjacent to 
a spring. 

The next day we tramped on, " over the hills and far away." Little 
game had been seen since we started. One hare was taken, much 
larger than the rabbits or hares found in the United States. An ante- 
lope was chased, and a doe and fawn were seen, but too far off and 
skittish for a shot. 

To-day we met several returning from the mines. They gave a dis- 
mal account of the state of affairs there, which none of our party were 
disposed to behave. It is a remarkable and probably a commendable 
trait in the character of our go-ahead countrymen, to admit no state- 
ment contrary to their preconceived opinions, till by personal observa- 
tion they have proved its truth or falsity. On our first arrival in Cah- 
fornia, we were told to believe nothing we heard, and only half we 
saw ! We were soon to have an opportunity of verifying the contra- 



HEAT OF THE CANONS. 61 

dictory stories that eveiywhere met us on the way, accordmg as the 
parties who made them had been successful or otherwise. 

Towards evening we came upon the " Dry Diggings," so called in 
contradistinction to the gold- washings on the bars of the rivers. Select- 
ing a very pleasant camping-gi-ound, on the borders of a small stream 
in the valley, with rolling hills all around us, we here pitched our tents, 
and prepared to " bide our time." 



CHAPTER XI. 

The Gold-Seeker — His Successes and Reverses. — Heat of the Canons.— Rugged and 
Precipitous Passages. — Wliat the Miner must Endure. — Who is Competent for 
Tills. — Turning tlie Streams. — Indians and Oregonians. — Effects of Misstate- 
ments. — Unprmcipled Scribblers. — Monte Tables. — Groggeries. — Sickness of Mi- 
ners. — Queer Characters. — Roving Parties. — Oregonians ; their Ojoinions of the 
Soil, Climate, and Mines of California. — Ghosts of the Departed. 

Arrived here, let me now introduce the reader to this part of the 
placer or gold mines. 

At the bottom of steep rocky glens or ravines, through which a small 
stream flows, with banks so high and precipitous that you can not walk 
over them, except on the little dusty paths worn in their sides, and up 
to his knees in muddy water, with which his clothes are well bedabbled, 
plying a pickax or shovel, or rocking a washer, behold the gold-seeker ! 
The smr pours his scorching rays upon his devoted head. Sometimes 
he will work, day after day and week after week, in a stooping posture, 
at as severe toil and great exposure as man ever felt or knew, and 
scarcely get a return for his labor. Again, he may chance upon a spot, 
where, without half the exertion, several hmidred dollars' worth of gold 
may be found and washed out in the course of a single day. Such 
instances are rare, however. Whilst I was here, three drunken, worth- 
less fellows, deserters from the army, with the uniform of " Uncle Sam" 
on their backs, happened on one of these rich ^'gulches'' within a few 
yards of where other and more deserving men, with severe toil, scai'cely 
realized any thing ; so fickle is the blind goddess, and often so prosperous 
and apparently I'avored by fortune, are the dissolute and abandoned ! 
These unworthy characters were nearly always intoxicated, and yet dug 
out their hundreds uith hardly an eflbrt. 

On the rivers, shut in as they are by high, steep, rocky, and almost 
impassable hills, much sickness prevails among the miners during the 
summer and fall months. The latter is the most productive season, as 
the waters are then low, and the fine particles of gold deposited, can be 
reached and washed out of the sand, mud, and rocks, where they are 
found on the bars and in the bed of the streams. Scarcely a breath of 
air penetrates these deep carwns, while the sun shhies with unclouded 
fervor, irequently bringing the themiometer to 110° in the shade. This 



62 TURNING THE STREAMS. 

to the miner, at his arduous and unaccustomed toil, is dreadfully severe, 
and almost necessarily results in brain-lever or a bilious- typhoid. Care 
and prudence could to some extent obviate these difficulties. But who 
is careful or who is prudent in the pursuit of gold in California? 

"While here, accompanied by another gentleman, I occasionally made 
some little excursions of a few miles over to the " North Fork," and 
into the deep canons of this river. [Staking our horses at the first plateau 
in our descent, we toiled along the precipitous sides and rugged shore, to 
'seek a better locality for his party. The water we found too high yet 
for extensive operations, and we gained nothing each time but a delight- 
ful bath, and a most toilsome scramble over the abrupt declivities. The 
sun was hot, but the water was like ice, coming as it does from the 
melting snow of the mountains, and darting along " like the swift current 
of the arroM'y Rhone." 

If I could convey to the reader an adequate conception of what a gold- 
seeker in California has to endure, it would scarcely be credited. (Quar- 
rying, the digging of canals, cell^i's, and wells, or all combined, are not 
capable of comparison with the intense hard labor, and almost unbear- 
able privations he is compelled to undergo. None but a laboring man 
is fit for the business. He must have been inured to the most trying 
hardships from his earliest infancy, and have a constitution and frame 
of iron, to endure it for any length of time ; sickness in some form often 
overtaking even the most robust, after a few week's toil. Many had 
been here since the preceding fall, and were no better off" than on the 
day of their arrival. The majority leave with broken health and 
spirits, the consequence of exposure and privations to which they had 
been unaccustomed, and the utter prostration of all their brilliant hopes. 
A very few were repaid to some extent, the result however of mere 
chance, though judgment is requisite in selecting a proper locality for 
operations, and often they who toiled the most obtained the least. The 
close of a successful season, say from the latter part of July till Novem- 
ber, when the waters are low in the rivers and the bars are exposed, 
finds some in the possession of from fifteen hundred to probably three or 
four thousand dollars' worth of gold. In rare instances, and I bestowed 
some care in the inquiry, had any one person been able to realize more 
than this. The attempt to turn the channel of the rivers, so as to get 
at the bed of the streams, was not attended with as fortunate results as 
many anticipated, the miners being seldom, though occasionally, 
rewarded for the severe labor of such an undertaking. Where an indi- 
vidual iiad obtained a party of Indians to work for some paltry pay, 
sums of ten, fifteen, or probably twenty thousand dollars, were collected 
through Iheir agency. These times, however, had gone by, most of 
the Indians being driven by the Oregonians far into the fastnesses of the 
mountains, and a war of extermination was waged against them. 

On a Sunday morning soon after my arrival, I was called to see an 
Lidian whose head was shockingly cut by an Oregonian, a white man, 
whom he had accompanied into California. The man's tent was a 
short distance from mine, iind I heard the shriek when the blow was 
struck. Some one had persuaded the Indian to leave his employer, and 
he was about doing so. To compel him to remain, the Oregonian, who 
had incurred expense on his account, struck him with some heavy 



SICKNESS OF MINERS. tj3 

weapon and i'elled him to the earth. On the foUowinjr day the man 
went in pursuit of" another Indian, to shoot him, whom he charged 
with steahn<? his horse. The Oregoniaus, and an immense number 
were in Calilbruia, Avere severe on all Indians, wherever they met a na- 
ked or wild one, inihesitatiugly shooting him down. This may seem, 
and certainly is, unwarrantable. But the treachery and ruthless scenes 
they have witnessed on the part of the Indians themselves, both here 
and in Oregon, they think in a great measure justify such harsh retali- 
ation ; a solitary white man, they say, never escaping, if met by a party 
of red skins. Christian maxims and precepts are naught with the fron- 
tiermen. 

Most whom I conversed with were disappointed, the true condition 
of things being so totally different from the accounts received at home. 
Letters full of grandiloquent statements, were put forth by individuals 
having no ])ersonal experience, and without correct knowledge of the 
truth of their assertions. Vague rumors, such as we on the ^mt were 
almost daily hearing, but in which we placed little confidence, were 
seized upon, and instantly some interested land-speculator, or unprin- 
cipled scribbler, would write home of m.ines oi untold wealth, which it 
was only necessary to be here for any one to obtain his portion of, at the 
same time pointing out the cheapest and most expeditious route by 
which to come and secure the golden harvest. I sincerely pitied the 
thousands of fine young men who were here or on their way, with no 
other purpose than to dig gold. After a long, hazardous, toilsome, and 
expensive journey is completed, and they begin to imagine that all their 
trials and hardships are at end, and they are about to reap their reward, 
their troubles and labors have not even commenced. tSoon their golden 
dreams are dissipated, and stern necessity compels them to some other 
employment than gold-hunting, to obtain the necessaries of life. In a 
far distant land, away from friends and home, and among many who 
are unprincipled, their cases are truly pitiable. Many of those who 
were of the party from San Francisco, left in a day or two, and returned 
to the settlements of the Sacramento, in order to obtain some more cer- 
tain and less precarious mode of subsistence than the mines afforded. 

The vices of gambling, drunkenness, and obscene oaths, were as 
prevalent here as elsewhere. Monte tables were constantly in operation 
about the little tent-stores and groggeries seated on the hill-side. The 
most useful articles vended at these places, were flour and salt or jerked 
meat. With these indispensables, and the luxuries of sugar and tea or 
coffee, the miner must be content, and happy is he, if at the close of 
a hard day's work he can muster sufficient resolution to cook his meal, 
and sit down under his tent to slap-jacks and fried pork. He must pay 
enormous prices for all he buys, and, unless success attends his efforts, 
he will find it difficult to keep body and soul together. Vegetables of 
any kind could not be had. A good deal of sickness prevailed, and my 
services were in great demand. The principal diseases that afflicted the 
miners were scurvy, rheumatism, dysentery; and brain, intermittent 
remittent, and continued fevers ; these latter, in many cases, early 
assuming a typhoid character. Where the patients were brought under 
treatment soon after the attack, however, I did not, generally speaking, 
find their cases at all intractable. I did not vary the treatment from 



64 GHOSTS OF THE DEPARTED. 

ordinary cases at home, and had the satisfaction to lose none. Some, 
either from iuabihty or disinchnation to pay for medical attendance, chose 
to treat themselves. Death was often the conseqvience of this, or they 
were walking shadows for months, with impaired intellects, and rarely 
recovered their accustomed vigor. I never saw more broken-down con- 
stitutions than I witnessed during my stay in California, and few who 
work in the mines, ever carry home their usual full health. 

There were some queer characters here. One man, whom I had bled 
at his request, thought he derived so much benefit from the operation, 
that he brought up his little Indian boy, and induced n^iany others to 
submit to the same process. Sunday morning was usually the time se- 
lected by them for this purpose, so as not to interfere with their labors 
through the week. Though perfectly well, they would take no refusal, 
but insist on its performance, and as the charge was an oiuice for each, 
I generally gratified them, and sometimes would have two or three 
bleeding around my tent at one time. 

Sitting in front of my tent, which was a short distance from the road, 
I have often been surprised at the numbers constantly passing and re- 
passing to and from the mines in diflerent parts of the country. Caval- 
cades of filty and a hundred, with their pack-mules bearing the gold- 
washer, tin-pan, pickax, shovel, and cooking utensils, could be seen. 
Among these, the sturdy Oregonians were readily distinguishable by 
their leather breeches fringed down the side, and the invariable rifle rest- 
ing on the pommel of the saddle, and ready for instant service. I had 
frequent conversations with these men, and foimd them all intelligent 
and sensible, but generally uneducated. They spoke with the utmost 
contempt of the climate and soil of California, but in raptures of their 
beloved healthful Oregon, and of the rich verdure and cultivated fields 
of the lovely Willamette valley. Many had visited the mines in difler- 
ent sections of the country, not only on Juba, Feather, and Bear rivers, 
and on the middle and south fork of the American River, but on the 
Stanislaus and various tributaries of the San Joaquin, over a surface of 
several hundred miles in extent. They were continually roving from 
point to point. When asked if they would not be more successful to 
remain in one spot, their invariable reply was, that Avherever they had 
been they heard richer mines spoken of further on, but that they had 
been unable to discover much diflerence in any. And so it was. Lit- 
tle reliance could be placed on the statements of any in California, rela- 
tive to the mines. Parties were constantly moving from one place to 
another, restless and dissatisfied, or led on by the glowing accounts of 
some remote spot, where rumor, with her thousand tongues, placed im- 
mense deposits of the precious metal, which could be obtained with little 
labor and in vast quantities. 

Remaining here about a month, the water in the ravines became so 
scarce as not to afford sufficient for the miner's use, and so unpleasant 
as not to be drinkable. Many were leaving for the more profitable 
washings on the rivers. A few remained, to pick and scratch with 
trowel and jack-knife, in the banks of the nearly dried-up rivulets, or 
among the rocks and pockets of the deep gulches. Some I found here 
nearly three months later, wandering about like ghosts of the departed. 



OASIS IN THE DESERT. 65 



CHAPTER XII. 

Start for tlie Juba. — An Unfruitful Plain. — Oasis in the Desert. — A Romantic Dell. 
— Picturesque Scene. — Bear River. — Johnsons Ranch. — Civilized Indians. — A 
White Woman. — Indian Cruelties. — Sumptuous Feast. — Bath in Bear River. — 
Intense Ileat. — Camping in the Wood.s. — Coyotes. — Their Thieving Propensities. 
Shores of the Juba. — Descent to the Stream. — A California Character. — Disgust 
of Miners. — Much Gold and Great Mortality. — Leave the Juba. — Encounter Dig- 
ger Indians. — Camp on Bear River. — Animated Scene. — Delightful Morning. — 
Antelopes and Deer. — Return to Camp. 

Desirous of Avitnessing the more extensive operations on the rivers, 
and to select a location where numbers were greatest, lor the exercise 
of my professional pursuits, my friend M , with two other gentle- 
men, accompanied me on an expedition some sixty miles distant, to the 
Juba. Strapping our blankets to the saddles, with haversacks well-filled. 
A^dth jerked-beef and biscuit, revolvers in belts, without coats, and our 
boots drawn over the pants, (California costume,) we sallied forth on 
our fleet steeds, ready " to drive through thick and thin." 

The first six miles of the early morning ride, over hill and dale, 
through the woods, were refreshing and delightful. But as the day ad- 
vanced, and the sun poured down his fiery rays, we emerged into an 
open, sandy plain, apparently limitless in extent in one direction, and 
about thirty miles across to some mountahi peaks just visible, where our 
course pointed. Scarcely a tree or blade of grass grew on the wide 
expanse. The ground was parched, and the whole aspect of the scene 
was dreary and desolate. It made one feel hot and micomfortable to 
contemplate it. Starting at a canter, or " lope," we dashed forward, 
and after a ride of about ten miles came to a kind of " oasis in the 
desert." A clump of trees overshadowed a romantic-looking dell, at 
the bottom of which water was visible, the remains of a small, nearly 
dried-up stream, and a most cheering sight. Parting the thick branches 
we descended on horseback to the spot, and suddenly found ourselves in 
a cool, pleasant retreat, beneath the arborous shade of trees and cling- 
ing vines, and confronted by about twenty Chilanoes, lounging about, 
who Uke oui'selves had sought refuge from the heat of the plain, in this 
traveler's rest. Most of these people, together with the Mexicans, Pe-. 
ruvians, and other foreigners on the Pacific coast, had been driven from 
the mines in every direction, hardly sufficient time in some instances 
being allowed them to remove their mining tools. Not knowing but 
our intentions were hostile, they seized their arms, quickly arose, and 
looked defiance at our approach. Finding we were not enemies, but 
wayworn travelers like themselves, they bade us " Buenos dioa senors ;" 
while we regaled ourselves -with aguaf rid in deep and potent draughts 
from the brook. The scene was extremely picturesque, and forcibly 
brought to mind many such tliat fancy had woven ui early life, when 
conning over the pages of Gil Bias. 



66 CAMPING IN THE WOODS. 

Tarrying but a short time, we continued on over the arid and burning 
plain at the same brisk rate, ahnost the only gait of a California horse. 
About two o'clock we forded Bear River, here a small and placid stream, 
and on the opposite side stojDped at " Johnson's Ranch." 

A rude mud shanty, standing in the midst of this desolate plain, 
" Johnson's" is famous as the spot where a party of whitemen the pre- 
ceding tail, had hung three Indians who murdered and robbed some of 
their friends. Many horses and cattle are raised here. The Oregonians 
and emigrants from the States, make this their favorite stopping-place 
on their way in, grass being abundant on the flat shores of the river, 
and beef plenty at the ranch. There are about a hmidred Indians be- 
longing to the ranch, who have their separate establishment a short 
distance oft'. They are called civilized, to distinguish them i'rom the 
naked wild ones, who roam about with bows and arrows ; and are 
occasionally employed to drive in cattle and do the drudgery about the 
place, but are a sorry-looking, indolent, and worthless set. We noticed 
several with their squaws, lounging about, or batliing in Bear River. 

We here saw two white females, one of whom had been an inmate 
of the family of Dr. Whitman, at the time they were attacked and bru- 
tally murdered by the Cayuse Indians, which brought on the war in 
Oregon, and greatly tended to embitter the inhabitants against the 
Indian character. Her life was spared, and she Avas subsequently 
rescued ; and is now married to a very worthy young man, one of the 
owners of the ranch. 

Diimer was soon prepared by these industrious women, and we sat 
down to a more sumptuous repast than we had enjoyed ibr many 
months. Fresh beef and potatoes, pickles and preserves, pie and milk, 
delightful bread and fresh sweet butter, coflee and rich cream, with 
sponge-cake and buttermilk, were spread out on a table-cloth of snowy 
whiteness. It was a rich treat, refreshing to look upon, and we paid 
om- most profound respects to this truly bountiful and delicious " feast 
of fat things." 

Two of the party here left us. M and I, after paying our dol- 
lar and half apiece in gold dust, and enjoying a refreshing bath in Bear 
River, pursued our way across the plain towards the Juba, distant yet 
some twenty miles. The heat of the sun was most oppressive, and the 
little air that was occasionally felt made it doubly so, having that 
stifling glow which is emitted from the mouth of a furnace. No water 
could be ibund for many miles, and as night drew on we emerged from 
the plain and entered the wooded hills. Just after dusk we passed a 
party of ten or fifteen persons with pack horses and mules on their way 
to the Juba, who hacl paused a lew minutes for repose. From them 
we learned that water could be obtained two or three miles ahead. 
Pushing on through the woods and over the steep hills, we at length 
descended into a deep ravine, at the foot of which a very tiny stream 
flowed. Having ridden in the dark for some tune, we determined to 
halt here and encamp for the night. 

Unsaddling and staking our horses, M proceeded further down 

the bro(;k in pur.suit of grass, whilst I built up a blazing fire under the 
prostrate trunk of a huge tree by the road-side, to keep oft' the mosqui- 
toes and any animals that might be prowling about. Little grass could 



SHORES OF THE JUBA. 67 

be foimd, and our weary iiaj^s had to be content with the weeds and 
scanty herbage they could pick up along the margin of the stream. 
Having dined sumptuously, we felt no inclination for jerked-beef, but 
slaking our thirst with copious draughts of water, spread our blankets 
before the tire, and with our saddles for pillows, were soon lulled to sleep 
by the coyote's surly bark, and other stl'ange sounds on the adjacent 
hills. The fatigue of the day's ride made it a luxury to rest, and we 
slumbered protbundly till " the sun awoke the jocund east." 

We arose from our blankets refreshed, and making our ablutions in 
the brook, found our horses as we had left them, browsing hard by. 
The coyotes, who are noted for their daring and thievish propensities, 
will often approach a horse in the night, and cut the lasso with his 
teeth lor the sake of the grease in the untanned hide. Loosed from his 
fastening, he will wander off, and is often difhcult to be found. They 
had spared ours, however, though we heard their short, quick, snarling 
cries all around us. They have often been known to approach a tent 
and steal the jerked-meat from under the heads of its sleeping occupants. 
One was detected in the act on one occasion, by a person awake, who 
related it to me, and cautiously seizing his pistol, he directed its muzzle 
over his head at the coyote, and killed him on the spot. Doubtless our 
large fire contributed to keep them at bay. I have often seen and 
chased them. They have a frightened, thievish, sneaking look, and are 
of a tawny color, about the size of a bull-terrier, some larger and some 
smaller. 

Starting forward, we rode for a few miles through the woods, and ap- 
proached the brow of a long, almost pei-pendicular hill, overlooking the 
swift waters of the Juba, which flows with the same arrowy speed I 
had noticed in the north fork of the American River. Our horses de- 
scended the rugged steep with slow and cautious steps, crossing in a zig- 
zag, sidelong manner, to avoid the abrupt inclination, till they salely 
gained the rocky shore. Here we found several tents pitched, and one 
or tAvo tent-stores, around which persons were talking and swearing in 
the most approved California fashion. When I attempted to remon- 
strate with one of these, and pointed out to him not only its vice but its 
absurdity, and asked him why it was so general, " Oh," he replied, with 
an oath, " it's the nature of the country I" 

Riding along a short distance, we came to a party with packed-mules, 
on the eve of departure, some twenty-five or thirty miles, to the " Middle 
Fork." They proved to be two gentlemen we had formerly met at the 
" Embarcadero," and stated that the water M'as too high to work on the 
Juba. They seemed very much out of patience with California, and 
one said, " he wished he had never seen the God-forsaken country, and 
were it not for the looks of the thing, he would leave it at once." This 
was but one of many similar instances of disgust I had witnessed. They 
were particularly severe on those who had given currency to " the gross 
exaggerations in regard to the gold mines and the country generally." 
Declining their polite invitation to partake of a cup of cold coflee and 
bologna, having already satisfied our appetites with jerked-beef and bis- 
cuit, we proceeded on, anxious to gain all the information we could as 
soon as possible, for the air was close and the heat intense, and the flies 
thick and " bit like skeeters." We were not long in obtaining the re- 



68 ENCOUNTER DIGGER INDIANS. 

quisite knowledge, which soon satisfied us that we could do much better 
than on this part of the Juba. Subsequently we learned that much 
gold Avas gathered on this river, but that the mortality throughout its 
whole extent was very great, and exceeded that of any other part of the 
mines. Two physicians, in full practice, had fallen victims to the fever, 
and much sickness prevailed till late in the fall. 

Retracing our steps over the rough and rocky shore, we regaled our- 
selves and horses with potent quail's from the pure, cold, crystaline 
water of the rapid stream, and commenced our toilsome ascent up the 
steep mountain. Approacliing nearly to the top, we suddenly came 
ujjon a party of eight stalwart Indians, mostly nude, with fanciful feath- 
ers in their hair, and armed with bows and arrows. They were some 
of the wild tribe of Diggers, so called from making their food chiefly of 
roots and acorns, and digging holes in the winter to sleep in. The ras- 
cals were at first disposed to elude observation behind the trees, but 
finding they were noticed, they came forward, watching us narrowly. 
As they approached, they saw our large revolvers, of which they have 
great di'ead, and paused, vacantly staring at us, as we passed them un- 
molested. 

Continuing on through the woods, we passed our encampment of the 
preceding night, where the old log still lay smouldering. Without stop- 
ping, we proceeded over the hills and emerged into the heated plain. 
The sun had nearly reached the meridian, and the heat was like a glow- 
ing furnace as we cantered fbrM'ard. Our tongues became almost jiarch- 
ed, and clove to our dried lips with thirst. Alter a long and exhausting 
ride, we reached the " Ranch, " where another most acceptable meal 
was served up. Encamping about a mile ofij on the shore of Bear 
River, under some fine old trees, we took a second dip in the water, 
which was most grateful and refreshing after our hot and wearisome 
journey. 

As we lay on our blankets, before yielding to " tired nature's sweet 
restorer," we observed some twenty or thirty Indians, men, women, and 
children, bearing burdens of provisions from the ranch, to their tents 
and huts near by. The scene was quite animating and picturesque, in 
the twilight of a beautiful evening, to watch these half-naked beings 
trotting along over the little acclivities, and bending beneath the weight 
of their heavy loads. We were soon asleep, notwithstanding the mos- 
quitoes, and did not awake till the gray streaks in the east indicated the 
approach of dawn. 

(duickly securing our horses, we proceeded to tlie ranch. Here, in 
company with some eight or ten rough-loud-talking-lndian-killing-Ore- 
gonians, we breakfasted, and mounting our California nags Avere soon 
far away. 

The morning was delightfully cool and pleasant. We saw several 
antelopes and deer grazing along the river ; the Ibrmer of which, with 
a curiosity that often leads them into danger, followed us for many 
miles. We also encountered a villainous-looking coyote, but sufiered 
him to escape. As the heat of the day approached, we tarried for 
several hours at our former pretty and agreeable watering-place, and 
about five o'clock reached our camp, glad to return, and M'armly wel- 
comed by our friends. 



FIRST NEWS FROM UOME. G9 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Determine to Establish a Tent-Hospital. — Start for the Erabarcadero. — Rapid 
Ride. — No Water. — Ox-teams and Miners. — Pleasant Repose. — Arrive at Sacra- 
mento City. — First News from Home. — Mr. C. — A Yankee Craft. — Stray Horse. 
—Cotton Duck and "Little Fixens." — -Lost in the Wilds. — Nothing to Eat. — 
Coyotes. — Antelopes. — Grizzly Bears. — Secluded Passes. — Remarkable Rocks. — 
Volcanic SoiL — Fmd the Road. — Arrive at Dry Diggings, 

The result of our visit to the Juba being so unsatisfactor)% it remained to 
Kelect some other locality. A point about forty-five miles higher up the 
country, on one of the spurs of the Sierra Nevada, and midway between 
the upper or extreme north fork of the American and Bear rivers, two and 
a half miles from each, was mentioned to me. Many miners going to these 
parts, had strongly urged me to establish a tent-hospital at that place. 
So importunate were some, and so zealous in recounting its advantages, 
that I at length determined to adopt their suggestions. As nothing 
suitable for my purpose could be obtained where I then was, it became 
necessary that I should visit the " Embarcadero" to carry out my plans, 
and make proper arrangements for such an establishment. 

With this view, at day-break on a bright morning in the latter part 
of June, I started forward, ray friends clustering around to cheer me at 
parting, and bid me godspeed. For the first forty miles of the way, 
I rode rapidly, my good horse never flagging from his accustomed Zope. 
This distance I accomplished in the short s^iace of six hours, without a 
drop of water for myself or horse, all the springs and mountain rivulets 
we had found on our way up, being completely dry. I met many ox- 
teams, laden with the traps of hundreds of new-comers, who on foot 
were wending their way to the mines. Tlie first question asked by both 
parties as we met, " How far to the next water ?" was rarely answered 
satisfactorily to either. 

Stopping at the fii'st watering-place I could discover, for two or three 
hours, I continued on at the same brisk rate, crossed the American River, 
passed Sutter's Fort, and arrived at the " Embarcadero" by six o'clock ; 
having performed the journey, wliich a month belbre had takon nearly 
four days, in nine hours. 

Arrived here, gladly did I welcome the first news from home. Al- 
most six mouths had elapsed, and I now received letters for the first 
tune, dated and mailed in the early part of February. Yet we had 
regular montlily mails established between New York and San Fran- 
cisco. 

Here I was at once installed under the hospitable tent of my kind 

friend, Mr. C , who had been one of the suflerers from fever while 

on the Pacific, and for nearly six weeks was unable to leave his berth. 
His health was now happily restored. 



70 LOST EST THE WILDS. 

Finding a Salem vessel lying in the Sacramento, laden with every 
thing, from a nail to a house, I was soon enabled to make my purchases 
there on the following morning, and much more advantageously than at 
either of the stores in the place. A Yankee only knows what is adapted 
for a particular trade. There appeared to be nothing unnecessary on 
board, but an infinite variety of articles most in demand, which the 
owners were rapidly disposing of to a throng of purchasers, and reaping 
a golden harvest. It is from such sources that fortunes have been so 
quickly accumulated in California. 

Anxious to return as soon as possible, I went in pursuit of my horse, 
which I had staked out early in the day. He was gone. After search- 
ing for him, and inquiring of every one I met for miles round, " If they 
had seen my slender bay ?" I at length found him about a mile below 
Sutter's Fort, quietly grazing on the plain, in the midst of a drove of a 
hundred horses, mules, and cattle. Making a halter with the las.«o 
trailing from his neck, I mounted him " Indian fashion," and rode 
back to the town. This hunt caused me no little fatigue, and the day 
was far spent before I was ready for departure. With a hundred yards 
of cotton duck strapped behind my saddle, and divers other " little 
fixens" suspended from various parts, I mounted my high-mettled steed. 
The figure I presented was no uncommon sight in California, each man 
being compelled to give personal attention to his luggage in the capacity 
of both porter and transporting agent. It struck me, however, as I 
passed through the munbers congregated on the principal street, at- 
tracting no more than a passing notice, that a ride through one of the 
great thoroughfares of Baltimore, Philadelphia, or New York in my 
present guise, would have elicited considerable remark, and been at- 
tended with some eclat. I was not long in reaching the ferry, though 
twilight set in before I got there. Staking out my horse, and obtaining 
supper and lodging at the ranch on the opposite side, I was ready for 
an early start on the following morning. 

There were several paths and wagon-tracks taking the same course, 
but diverging a short distance from the ranch. Reflecting on the con- 
tents of my letters, I allowed my horse to choose, as I supposed, the cor- 
rect route, without thinking much about it, till after riding five or six 
miles the seeming road abruptly terminated in a small path. Unwil- 
ling to return and lose so much time, and supposing I could not be far 
wrong, I kept on till I was entirely lost, and knew no more where road 
or path was than "the man in the moon." Though perfectly aware 
that my direction was a northeast course, I felt a little queer, when, on 
making several ineHectual attempts, first to the right and then to the 
left for many miles, to regain the road, I found I was completely baffled, 
and lost in the wilds of California sure enough. Without hesitation, I 
continued in the same course, taking the sun for a guide. The morn- 
ing was delightfully cool and pleasant, and the ride had sufficient inci- 
dent and excitement in its very loneliness to render it interesting. 
Coming to a little stream, I rode in to water my horse. At the mo- 
ment a deer sprang from the thicket and startled him, when as luck 
would have it, a little bundle of edibles I had just taken from my haver- 
sack, fell from my hand into the stream and floated beyond my reach. 
Most ruefully did I gaze after my breakfast, thus rudely snatched firom 



ARRIVE AT DRY DIGGINGS. 71 

me, but recalling the adage of " slips and lips," I was content with a 
draught of water, and ix'sumed my journey, blessing the deer that had 
cost me so much. I saw many coyotes and antelopes. In one drove I 
counted twenty of the latter. As I approached, they stood for a short 
time Avatchiug me, then circling round towards me, they paused lor a 
few moments to look again, and bounded ofi' into the woods. It Avas a 
beautiful sight, and I had a good opportunity to observe them. The 
grizzly bears, which are numerous in the country, ai'e generally found 
high up in the momitains till late in the fall, when the acorns ripen and 
drop i'rom the trees. They are then frequently encountered in the val- 
leys and near the settlements. As I was passing over a portion of 
country which probably had never been traversed by any but Indians 
and wild animals, it was not with the most confident feelings of safety 
that I occasionally approached a more wild and secluded pai't, that 
seemed to answer as an admirable cover for either. I had an abiding 
faith in my large revolver however. The soil was hght, consisting of 
a reddish earth or sand, very similar to other parts of the country, and 
hardly susceptible of tillage. The frequent appearance of enormous 
rocks, assuming many fantastic forms, was quite singular and remark- 
able, and at a distance often looked like some time-worn castle. Im- 
mense flat masses rested upon their edges in towering height, and often 
overgrown with moss and vines, fully attesting what the volcanic 
character of the soil generally proved, the terrible throes of nature 
which in former ages had reared these mighty masses from the earth, 
and placed them in their present positions. 

Havuig stopped once or twice through the course of the day, about five 
o'clock in the afternoon, most unexpectedly, I came out into the road at 
nearly right angles, within six or eight miles of the " diggins." I had no 
doubt that the route I traveled had shortened the distance by at least 
ten miles, the main road being very winding to avoid the hills, whereas 
I had kept a straight course, but over a much more rough and rugged 
country. I arrived at my tent by half jjast six, where several messages 
were awaiting me, and, fatigued as I was, had at once to start off on 
foot, for two or three miles down the ravine. 



72 MULISH PROPENSITIES. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Breaking up Camp. — Hilly Country. — Pcior Soil. — A Con-al. — Pack-ISIules. — Sloun- 
tain Traveling. — Perilou.s Passes. — Mulish Propensities. — Sierra Nevada. — Beau- 
tiful Plateau. — Cold Spring. — Elevated Situation. — Mountain Scenery. — Extended 
View. — Building a Hospital.— Sickness of Miners. — An Arbor. — Disappointed 
Miners. — Reckless Characters. — Oregonians. — Their Indian Strifes. — Their Gold. 
— Advantages to Oregon. — Utilitarian Spirit. — Departure of Miners. — Reward 
of Mining.— The Penalty. 

Leaving my reader to imagine the bustle attendant on breaking np a 
camp, I will ask him to see us now all ready for departure, on a bright 
morning in the early part of July. Our moveables were placed in a 
wagon drawn by four mules. Some on foot and some on horseback, 
our party of six, including the muleteer, started forward in a northerly 
course. We continued to travel all day over a rough and hilly country, 
where we occasionally found springs, but rarely grass, the character of 
the soil diflering but Uttle from what we had noticed in other parts 
of the northern portion of Upper California. At noon we stopped for 
repose and refreshment, and by evening reached the " Corral,"* a 
distance of twenty-five miles. Here we slept on our blankets under the 
trees. 

On the following morning, every thing had to be removed from the 
wagon, and packed on the backs of mules. The remaining part of the 
way was nothing more than a narrow path winding around the sides of 
deep precipices, or over the brows of lofty ridges, where any other mode 
of conveyance was impracticable. Starting forward with fifteen pack- 
mules, we were continually ascending throughout the day. The moun- 
tains in many parts were so abrupt, that it was extremely difficult to 
chmb the steep path. A pack would become disarranged, and the 
mule would commence kicking in an extremely critical and dangerous 
passage, or another would leave the path on the side of an almost per- 
pendicular ravine, where he would fall or lie down and roll for some 
distance below, till one of the party came to his rescue. Thus it con- 
tinued till we got to our journey's end. The patience of all was nearly 
exhausted at the stubborn and midish propensities they evinced, and we 
were almost choked with dust and heat, and became hoarse with calling 
to them, to make them follow the path. Some ludicrous scenes oc- 
curred, but I will not tax the reader by their recital here. 

Towards evening we toiled for about two hours to the top of a high 
ridge, one of the first ranges of the Sierra Nevada. Arrived at the sum- 
mit, we ibuud a beautiful plateau, half a mile wide and a mile in length, 
on whicli a little log-store was erected. Here we pitched our tent 

* A " Corral" is an inclosure where horses are kept or tamed, and branded with 
the owner's mark. 



INDIAN STRIFES OF OREGON. 73 

under some ancient oaks, for this was the chosen spot. Hard by bab- 
bled a sprinjj of cold and delij^htful water, which won for the location 
the title of Cold JSpring, conferred by an esteemed member of the party, 
which it will probably ever retain. Being very elevated, and within 
fifteen miles of snow, which was plainly discernable on the surrounding 
peaks, we ovei'looked an immense extent of mountain and plahi — the 
top of Monte Diablo, the giant of the coast-range, appearing more than 
two hundred miles oft". 

Working manfully among the tall and slender pines on the following 
day, Ave soon had sufficient felled for our purpose ; but before we had 
the hospital completed, a poor fellow lying under the trees near by 
asked admittance. He had been on a " prospecting" tour, or examin- 
ing the deep canons of the I'iver and ravines for a suitable place to dig, 
\vhen suddenly seized with vertigo and sickness, he found it difficult, 
with the assistance of a friend, to return to the neighborhood of the 
spring. He was now sufiering from a bilious-typhoid. In the evening 
two others came up from the canon, laboring under dysentery, and the 
next day a party of twelve Oregonians bore one of their number on a 
litter, a distance of six miles to the hospital. These, with several cases 
which soon followed, kept me busy. But I will not inffict upon my 
reader a detail of hospital practice. The diseases were of the same 
character as those I had met with below, and I found none intractable, 
unless the cases had been permitted to run on too long before medical 
aid was sought. 

With the assistance of my steward and cook, both of whom were 
efficient, I erected an arbor, covering it with pine and cedar boughs, and 
formed a table and seats of the latter wood, which made a rustic but 
very pleasant retreat. 

In this place I remained for two months, the monotony being occa- 
sionally relieved by the visit of some disappointed new-comers from the 
States, or the wild and reckless characters who were long residents in 
Caliibrnia, and had become indoctrinated in the semi-barbarous habits 
of sijch a life. With plenty of " the dust," they were continually roving 
about, spending it with the most lavish profusion. The miners from the 
Bear River and the North Fork, would sometimes call, either for medi- 
cines, or on their way to the little store near by for the purchase of 
flour and bacon, the only articles of food to be obtained. Many of the 
hardy Oregonians were among these visitors, and I formed some agree- 
able acquaintances not soon to be forgotten. For hours have I listened 
to a recital of their exploits in the Indian country, and to the scenes of 
hardship and peril through which they had passed in the early settle- 
ment of Oregon, to the midnight surprisals, the daring and successful 
marauds, the foray, the ambush, the nightly prowls, the deadly work of 
the merciless tomahawk and scalping-knife, and all those terrible events 
of a roving and pi-edatory warfare, in which these hardy mountaineers had 
played a conspicuous part. Much is due to these enterprising pioneers, 
and I doubt not but our government will in good iaith redeem her 
pledge to them. Accustomed to combat difficulties from early life, they 
are the very men to endure the privation and toil of minei'S. In most 
instances, each is enabled to carry back the value of Irom one to three 
thousand dollars. This accession of gold, to an agricultural and pastor- 

4 



74 REWARD AND PENALTY OF MINING. 

al rejrioii like Oregon, where heretofore money was unknown as a 
medium of traffic, will add much to the wealth of the country, and 
greatly contribute to secvxre the comforts, if not the luxuries of life. It 
will also tend to develop the resources of the country, which are great. 
The gold of California will confer more lasting benefits on the territory 
of Oregon, than the former can ever hope to derive from it. 

When the territory of Oregon was a howling wilderness, the govern- 
ment oilered to every man a section of land, who would emigrate thither 
and settle upon it. On the faith of this, many a hardy son of the West 
penetrated to that remote country, and after undergoing trials and hard- 
ships of no ordinary kind, not only in obtaining the necessaries of life, 
but in defending their hearth-stones from the attacks of savage and hos- 
tile tribes, they at length succeeded in forming a permanent settlement 
in the rich valley of the Willamette. Here they have cultivated and 
improved the soil, and flourishing farms abound. They now look to 
Congress with some interest to perfect their titles, and at the time I 
refer to, had just elected their first representative, Hon. S. E,. Thurston, 
to proceed thither and urge their claims to a final settlement. The well- 
known abilities of Mr. Thurston, who was eminently popular among them, 
must tell in the result of his mission. The justice of their demands is 
recognized out of Congress, and I trust will be there. 

Whilst I was here, an election for delegates to the convention, to or- 
ganize a Territorial Government, was taking place in different parts of 
the country. As an evidence of the utilitarian spirit prevalent, I re- 
ceived a bullock, with a request that I would have him slaughtered on 
a certain day, and, at the same time, open polls for the election of two 
delegates from my district. Notice was given to the miners in all direc- 
tions. The bullock was killed, the polls opened, but the attraction was 
not sufficient. Gold was more powerful, for no one attended. The 
beef spoiled and the election was defeated. 

As the month of August wore on, most of the miners on the two ad- 
jacent rivers, packed up their iraj)^ and left for parts unknown, to seek 
more profitable " dig gins" elsewhere, and before I was enabled to de- 
part scarcely a dozen remained ; and worn down with the toil of the 
summer, and with ghastly and cadaverous looks, these were mostly cn- 
camj)ed on the plateau, in the hope of improving their exhausted strength 
by inhaling the mountain air. It was pitiable to see them dragging 
their wasted frames, with scarcely the energy of life remaining. Health 
and every comfort were sacrificed, but the miserable objects were in pos- 
session of a few pounds of gold I That was the penalty, this the reward. 



TOILSOME AND LONELY MARCH. 75 



CHAPTER XV. 

Departure. — Deserted Camp. — Descent of Mountain. — Difficult Passes. — A Forest 
on Fire. — Toilsome and Lonely March. — Repose. — Lost Treasure. — Horse turned 
Banker. — Separation. — Bear River. — Hospitals. — Coyotes. — Emigrants. — An Arid 
Waste. — Feather River. — Lost. — Unpleasant Ride. — Agreeable Meeting. — Vernon. 
— Fremont. — Quails. — Arrive at Sacramento City. — Lnprovements. — Symptoms 
of Fever. — Ride to Dry Diggings and Return. — Sickness. — Embark on the Sacra- 
mento. — Arrive at San Francisco. — Kind Friends. — Convalescence. 

On the 26th of August, I saw my last patient mount his horse and 
start for home, anxious to be out of ,a country that had nearly cost him 
his life. By the evening of that day our tents were struck, horses pack- 
ed, and all were ready for departure, those who had accompanied me 
thus far, comprising the party. With our rifles slung over our shoulders, 
and taking a parting look at the deserted camp, where the little arbor 
and skeleton of a house with its rude bedsteads stood to tell of the past, 
we started forward. Descending the mountain during the twilight, we 
continued on through forests, across ravines, over hills and almost im- 
passable rocks, or along the precipitous sides of deep gorges, lighted 
faintly by the rays of a new moon, and sometimes brilliantly by a wide- 
spread conflagration, where the woods had been accidentally or inten- 
tionally fired by some careless miners or mischievous Indians. The ap- 
pearance of the bright flames, dancing through the parched undergrowth 
and rapidly ascending to the topmost branch of the lofty pines, seen 
through the trees on some distant mountain, and lighting up the whole 
horizon, was very magnificent. Occasionally we would have to pass 
over ground recently burned, when the heat and smoke were almost 
stifling. Unable to obtain any water by the way, we did not pause on 
our toilsome and lonely march till about one o'clock, when we arrived 
at the " Corral." The distance was computed at fifteen miles, but 
with the difficult route and wearisome traveling, would probably in the 
States be set down at thirty. Here were two log-stores. Unpacking 
our horses, we spread our blankets under the trees near by, and were 
soon in a profound sleep. 

Remaining here on the following day to recruit, and enjoy the slap- 
jacks, ham, and coffee, that were dealt out at one of the aforesaid stores, 
we resumed our journey on the succeeding morning. On our way a 
little incident occurred that, for a lew hours, was a source of uneasiness 
to more than one of the company. About five o'clock, we stopped at 
what was termed the "Mormon Camp" for supper, and while discussing 
the goodly fare of the dames who prepared it, my horse, who was famous 
for such exploits, wandered off' and could nowhere be found. One of 
my medicine chests was loosely suspended at the saddle-bow. In this, 
for safety, as the medicine gave out, the bottles ivere replenished ivith 



76 FEATHER RIVER. 

"dust," and now contained the all in gold of two or three individuals, 
whom it had cost no little time and labor to accumulate. Search was 
made in every direction for the missing horse, with no little dread of the 
result, but in vain, and night came on before he was found, quietly en- 
joying a little herbage which his sagacity had discovered nearly three 
miles off, unconscious of the severe pangs his absence had inflicted on 
one at least of the party, who vowed " he should be his banker no 
longer." 

We slept under a deserted bush-tent at the "dry diggins" that night, 
and had no little amusement in congratulating the individual in question 
on the recovery of his lost treasure, and the indiscretion of ever having 
chosen a horse for a banker. 

Here our party separated, some going into one part of the mines and 
some into another. Along wath u/i companero, on the following morn- 
ing, I continued my way to Johnson's ranch. Again had that dreary 
desert of parched sand to be crossed. The streamlet in our little shady, 
romantic nook was dry, and we were without water till we arrived at 
Bear River. Here I found a hospital under way, and two additional 
ones about being established. As night came on, we spread our blankets 
under a tree, and tying our horses to the branches, were not long in get- 
ting to sleep. From this we were soon aroused by the growling of a 
httle dog that had accompanied us, and the loud barking of a coyote 
within a few feet of us. Provoked at this annoyance, I quickly arose, 
and directed the muzzle of my rifle to the spot whence the sound pro- 
ceeded, though no object could be distinguished in the hazy moonlight, 
and fired. The coyote uttered a cry of terror, but it was his last, and 
we were troubled no more that night, though we heard the barking of 
a dozen all round us, but admonished by the fate of their companion, 
they kept at a respectful distance. 

In the morning we started down the plain along the shores of Bear 
River, intending to take Vernon, a town at the mouth of Feather River, 
in our route on our way to Sacramento City. Thousands who had just 
arrived by the oveiiaud route, were encamped on the river. And a 
most disastrous expedition it had proved to many, death irom disease, 
starvation, and want of water, having made sad inroads among them. 
Those who escaped their early hardships by the way, now presented the 
appearance of ruddy health, and were here reposing, after their weary 
journey of over two thousand miles, to recruit themselves and animals. 
Pursuing our way among them for several miles, we left the shore of the 
river, passing over a country as cheerless and desolate as I had ever be- 
held. Not a tree or shrub grew for miles in extent. All was parched, 
waste, and flat. The sun glowed like a furnace, and no object, but an 
occasional ox team enveloped in a cloud of dust, relieved the dreary des- 
olation of the scene. Riding rapidly till about three o'clock, we arrived 
at Nicholas' ranch, then a rude mud-hut on Feather River, and gladly 
did we relieve our tired animals of the weight that encumbered them. 

Towards evening we continued our course, as we supposed from the 
directions given us. After riding ibr about ten miles, night came on, 
and the moon afibrding little fight through the hazy atmosphere, we 
happened to overtake a person irom whom we inquired the way, and 
learned to our dismay, that we were further from Vernon, than when 



SYMPTOMS OF F1■:^■ER. 77 

we left the ranch. Our only course was to return, or strike directly across 
the plain without pathway or guide, except tlie dim moon, till we could 
reach the shore of Feather River again, along which the road would con- 
duct us to Vernon. We adopted the latter, passing over quagmires, 
through thuie marshes, and across the barren desert, followed a great 
part of tlie ^\'ay by the sharp, quick bark oi' villainous coyotes. They 
would sometimes approach nearly to our horses' heels. Finding that our 
little pup was the main object of their pursuit, I quickly turned my horse 
and fired my rifle among them. With many yelps they left us, and for 
miles we continued to hear their cries in the distance. After riding for 
several hours, we came to the road, and soon experienced a most chilling 
sensation of cold and dampness from the log of the river, which was ex- 
cessively unpleasant. Here we were joined by three horsemen, one of 
whom proved to be Mr. G. W. Crane, of Baltimore. Though we had never 
met, he insisted on our sojourning at his lodgings, and manifested that 
warm-hearted hospitality and true-gentlemanly feeling, which was quite 
refreshing, and is pleasant to record. 

Vernon is situated at the junction of Feather River with the Sacra- 
mento, at what may be termed the head waters of navigation on the 
latter. Though small at the time I visited it, there were evidences of 
rapid improvement in progi'ess. A large hotel was nearly completed, 
and already accommodated some twenty or thirty at its well-furnished 
table. It must in time become a place of considerable importance, the 
country back of it, it was said, being susceptible of cultivation. The 
annual floods in the rivers, I was told, had irever been so disastrous here 
as at points further down the Sacramento. 

Bidding adieu to our kind and hospitable friends on the following morn- 
ing, we crossed the river on a flat to the little town of Fremont, dii-ectly 
opposite. Two or three houses, with one store, and a few tents, com- 
prised the place. The shore was more abrupt on this side, but there is 
abundant room on the extensive prairie beyond to build a large city, 
should it be required. 

Continuing down the Sacramento, we started many coveys of quails, 
that gave us rare sport. The shore in some parts for a hundred and flfty 
yards from the river, was well- wooded and showed rich patches of verdure. 
Beyond this nothing grew, and the soil was loose, crisp, and burnt. We 
arrived opposite the Embarcadero by evening, and crossing the river 
again, once more stood on the classic soil of Nueva Helvetia. 

Much improvement had taken place in Sacramento City since my last 
visit. Two or three hotels, and many frame-houses were ej-ected. Wells 
were dug, and good water found, which was considered a matter of much 
importance, as the season was approaching when the water in the 
Sacramento was distasteful and unhealthy. 

I had not been here but a day or two, when I began to experience 
sensations that too plainly indicated the banel'ul influence of the low, 
marshy, febrile district of the Sacramento. Much sickness prevailed 
here, and many deaths were daily occurring from dysentery and iiivers. 
The thermometer throughout the summer had ranged from 90 to 1 20° of 
Fahrenheit. 

Having a matter of imperative business to attend to at the " Dry 
Diggings," I mounted my horse and rode with all speed thither. This 



78 UNSUCCESSFUL MINERS. 

accomplished, I returned the next day in the same rapid manner. 
Night set in before I reached the ibrd at the American River, the boat 
there being long since dispensed with. Burning with fever, I flew over 
the intervening space of seven miles to the Sacramento, at the top of 
my horse's speed. 

On the following day, a schooner started for San Francisco. On this, 
accompanied by two other gentleman, I engaged passage, leaving my 
horse to be disposed of by a friend. How I got on board, I scarcely 
know. During the five days we were sailing to San Francisco, nothing 
passed my lips but Avater and medicine, and I silently lay in my ham- 
mock, suHering all the horrors of parching thirst and raging fever. 

Arrived there, we were fortunate in seciiring lodgings at the house of 
a gentlemair, where I received every attention and kindness. My esti- 
mable friend M contributed much to my recovery by his unceasing 

endeavors to anticipate every want. With such good nursing, aided by 

some kind hints from Dr. P of Baltimore, in about ten days I was 

able to leave my chamber. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Rapid Improvement of San Francisco. — Unsuccessful Miners. — Engage Passage on 
the Steamer. — Erroneous Statements corrected. — Soil, Climate, and Mines of Cal- 
ifornia. — Start for Home. — Moonlight on the Bay. — Pleasure and Regret. — Heavy 
Fog. — Monterey. — Convention. — Santa Barbara. — Fruits. — Agreeable Anticipa- 
tions. — San Diego. — Steamer California. — Great Mortality. — Appointed Surgeon 
of the Oregon. — Much Sickness. — Arrive at Mazatlan. — Magnificent View. — Neat- 
ne.^s and Thrift of the City. — A Death. — A Burial. — Campo Santo Americano. 

I NOTICED even more improvement at San Francisco than at Sacra- 
mento City. Houses were building in every direction. The saw and 
the hatchet were constantly heard, the work being in many instances 
solely performed by Chinese, many of whom were here. All was life, 
bustle, and business. A reduction on every thing but real estate had 
taken place, and that had risen nearly fifty per cent, since my arrival. 
Many additional vessels were in the harbor, and the place was thronged 
with new-comers. Hundreds who had returned unsuccessful from the' 
mines, but with wasted frames and sickly aspects, were anxious to depart 
for home, without the ability to do so. With no means to pay their 
passage, health gone and no friends, many engaged as waiters or coal- 
heavers on board the steamers to Panama, trusting there for an oppor- 
tunity to cross the Isthmus ami M'ork their passage to New York. 

Having satisfied my curiosity in regard to Califbriua, and fearful of a 
relapse should I return to the vicinity of the mines, I deemed it most 

prudent to leave the country, and along with M engaged passage 

for Panama, on the steamer to start the 1st of October. The few inter- 
vening days were occupied in preparations for departure, and reflections 



MOONLIGHT ON THE BAY. 79 

on the various scenes through which I had passed since my residence in 
the country. 

My object in visiting CaUfornia was two-fold, to become familiar with 
its diseases, particularly at the mines, and to select a location lor perma- 
nent settlement. Becoming a victim to one of the Ibrrner, and my tastes 
not incliiiiag to the rugged hardships of the latter, I remained only long 
enough to gain the knowledge I sought. That I was disappointed with 
the couutry, I am free to confess. In no one particular scarcely, did it 
reahze my expectations. Nor am I singular in expressing this senti- 
ment. Most whom I conversed with held similar views. The truth 
had not been told. Along with the discovery of gold, exaggerated state- 
ments were trumpeted forth of its agricultural resources, and of its cli- 
mate. In recounting the foi-mer, among its other superior merits, the 
most attractive pictures were presented to the fancy, but the trials, the 
privations, the diseases to which the miners were exposed, were lost 
sight of Pounds of the precious metal were said to be soon accumula- 
ted by all who visited the mines, but that it was accomplished by toil 
and hardships which few could endure, or that it was attended with any 
sacrifice of health or life, was studiously concealed or wilfully overlooked. 
Nay, the reverse was stated, whether to induce a large iunnigration 
thither, from interested or political motives, I leave others to judge. 

From what I had seen of Calilbrnia, and heard of those parts I had 
not visited, I came to the conclusion that, with the exception of Napa 
valley, the lower Pueblo, and parts of the Santa Clara valley, but mea- 
gre portions of the whole country, it is not adapted to agricultural pur- 
poses. These parts are mostly in the possession of a lew proprietors, 
who hold their titles from Spanish or Mexican grants. Others are ex- 
cluded irom participating in them, unless at rates which would be con- 
sidered high in the best improved agricultural districts of the United 
States. They are thus left without proper culture, and benefit no one. 
Irrigation would be necessary in most other sections to produce any yield 
of grain, but from the peculiar formation of the country it would be no 
easy matter to afiect this. The marshy districts of the valleys of the 
Sacramento and San Joaquin are valueless for agricultural purposes, 
and are most inimical to human life. Years have been known to elapse 
without rain, when almost every river and streamlet was dry, and 
many of the cattle and inhabitants perished from thirst. Fruit is found 
nowhere, except in small quantities about the old Catholic missions 
along the southern coast, where the continual fogs moisten tiie soil. If 
it is susceptible of any thing, the number of enterprising spirits who are 
there Avill yet develop its resources ; but the main reliance of California 
must rest on its mineral wealth, which undoubtedly is great. Scratch- 
ing for gold, however, will not continue many years. The veins among 
the quartz boulders, the sources of all, must be sought, and scientific ap- 
pliances set into operation to bring out the wealth they contain. In ad- 
dition to gold, other of the pi'ecious metals and valuable ores are found, 
which when a regular system of mining is instituted, will probably be 
discovered in such vast quantities as to astound the world. 

On the evening of September 30th, lighted by a brilliant moon, we 
were roM'ed to the steamer Oregon, Captain Pearson, threading our way 
through the three hundred ships anchored in the harbor. The usual after- 



80 SANTA BARBARA. 

noon's gale had subsided, and the full-orbed moon gave a distinctness to 
every object that was peculiarly interesting, as we glided through the 
forest of masts and by the hulls of the different vessels, sitting gracefully 
upon the placid but splendid bay. We left California with feelings of 
pleasure mingled with melancholy regret. Pleasure at the thought of 
home and distant friends, and regret that in our after-recollections of 
California would ever be associated the scenes of vice, debauchery, and 
suffering we had there witnessed. It presents a wide field lor the labors 
of the faithful missionary. At five o'clock on the morning of the 1st of 
October, we were aroused by the firing of the signal-gun, announcing 
that our departure was at hand. A heavy fog rested on the bay, and 
concealed the town from view. This continued throughout the greater 
part of the day, enshrouding all but the most prominent objects as we 
pas.«ed through the channel formerly alluded to, termed the Chrj'sopyle 
or Golden Gate. Towards evening we came opposite Monterey. View- 
ed from the bay, which is little more than an open roadstead and not 
to be compared lor security to the harbor at San Francisco, it presents a 
veiy pretty appearance. It is situated on a gradually sloping emi- 
nence, surrounded by hills and thick M'oods. It is a much more desi- 
rable place for a residence than San Francisco, being exempt from those 
sudden transitions and chilling blasts which make the latter so exceed- 
ingly uncomfortable. The water here is also of a better quality. The 
houses are chieffy adobes with tiled roofs. Conspicuous among them 
stood the Government-House, over which floated the stars and stripes. 
Being the capital of the territory, it was much larger than San Fran- 
cisco prior to the gold discoveries, but is now a village in comparison to it. 

The convention was about closing its deliberations for the organiza- 
tion of a Territorial or State (?) Government. Colonel Fremont and 
half a dozen others, who were passengers thus far, here left us. Adieu 
Monterey. 

Continuing our course all night, and till towards evening of the fol- 
lowing day, we came opposite the old mission of Santa Barbara. It 
consists' of a small collection of adobes. In the background stands the 
mission-buildings and cathedral. The captain procured a few pears, 
and queer-looking pear-shaped apples, and grapes on shore, which were 
well-liavored, but very inferior to the same fruits growing on the Atlan- 
tic side of our continent. We here took a few passengers on board, 
Avhich made our number over three hundred. Among them were the 
lady and gentleman we had parted company with at Taboga, and 
whom I now met for the first time since that memorable occurrence. 
There was a Spanish widow of fifty also on board, who resided at one 
of the southern ports of Cahfornia ; she was reputed to be immensely 
wealthy, was the mother of eighteen children, and now affianced to a 
youth of twenty-four. So much for Spanish women I We had like- 
wise, the French Consul and family from the Sandwich Islands, who 
had been " kicking up a muss generally" there, and left without de- 
manding his passports from the Government at Honolulu, because it 
refused to reduce the tariff on French brandies I Major Graham also, 
of the army, distinguished and promoted for his valor and services 
during the Mexican war ; Hon. S. K.. Thurston, the first representative 
from Oregon ; Mr. Philip J. Tyson, an eminent geologist, who, along 



ARRIVE AT MAZATLAN. 81 

with General Persifer F. Smitli, Hon. T. Butler King-, and others, had 
recently been engaged in making a rapid geological tour through Cali- 
fornia. These, with some stars of lesser note, combined to make up a 
variety of "great and small things," wliich promised to add to the 
enjopiient, when fatigued with seeing sights on shore, or watching the 
play of old ocean. 

On the afternoon of the third day out, we entered the pretty little 
harbor of San Diego. We -here made fast to the British bark Arno, 
lying in the port, and commenced taking coal on board. On the beach, 
immediately in front of our anchorage, stood the halt-dozen frame hide 
houses, rendered famous as the point whence large shipments of hides 
and tallow were formerly made to the United States and to Europe, 
that trade constituting the only wealth of which California could then 
boast. The locality posssessed some interest as the point whence the 
commissions, under our late treaty with Mexico, would commence their 
labors of running the boundary line between Upper and Lower Cah- 
fornia. The town, which we could see from our position about sLx: 
miles distant, consists of a miserable collection of adobes. It stands in 
an exposed sumiy valley, without trees or a house of entertauiment of 
any kind in the place. 

On the morning of the fifth, a few hours prior to our departure, the 
steamer California, on her upward trip from Panama, came into the 
harbor. Her two hundred and fifty passengers cheered us most lustily, 
and soon crowded our decks. The inquiry was frequent why we had 
left California, and the reply almost invariably was, " That question 
will be answered at the mines." They reported eight deaths from fever, 
on their way from Panama. 

The individual acting in the capacity of surgeon on board the Oregon, 
was to-day discharged as unfit for duty. The captain gave him fifteen 
minutes to decide, whether to pay his passage to Panama or leave the 
ship. The result was, that he took a passage on board the California, 
on a return trip for San Francisco. I was now appouited to that post, 
along with my friend Dr. Ward. 

We found many sick on board, two or three being very seriously ill. 
A majority of the passengers were complaining from indisposition of one 
kind or another. Most of those who had been at the mines were sufler- 
ing, either from the effects of disease, or from some one of the complaints 
incident to the country, already referred to, which they contracted before 
coming on board. Of course little leisure was allowed to me, and I 
soon found my post a most arduous one, Avith a fair prospect that our 
labors would increase as Ave approached tlie hot latitudes. This was 
the case, for in a few days there were fifty-seven who required daily at- 
tendance. The weather had become very warm, and overcoats and 
cloth, which but recently were in urgent requisition, now gave place to 
a much lighter material. The murky clouds and foggy atmosphere 
were dissipated, and the sun shone with unclouded splendor. 

On the ninth Ave passed Avithin half a mile of Cape St. Lucas, though 
I did not see it, the duties devolvuig upon me keeping me almost con- 
stantly occupied beloAV. We Avere now steering our course tor Mazat- 
lan, across the entrance to the Gulf of California, and were rapidly 
leavmg its rugged and barren-looking coast. 

4* 



82 CAMPO SANTO AMERICANO. 

On the morning of the 10th, when I awoke, the wheels which 
passed near my state-room window were motionless ; the engine was 
still ; all was quiet around. The air was intensely hot, and 1 was wet 
with perspiration. Ciuickly going on deck, I found we were anchored 
about two miles ofi" Mazatlan, which port we had made in the night. 
The extended view presented to my gaze was very grand. In the 
foreground and near our anchorage, several small islands were seen, 
clothed with a mantle of green, and many huge rocks reared their 
dark forms and stood in isolated grandeur around, against which old 
ocean roared and heaved his billows. In another direction, the white 
walls of the city adobes dazzling in the brilliant beams of a morning 
sun were visible, and numbers of hackalas or reed-thatched huts 
covered the hill-sides and the beach, amidst cocoa, orange, and palm 
trees. Beyond these, and neai'ly inclosing them, were a low dark out- 
line of hills ; while far away in the distance, the shadowy forms of the 
towering peaks of the Sierra Nevada of Mexico mingling with the 
clouds were faintly perceptible. It was like a beautiful picture, so 
rich was the blending of light and shadow, and so admirable the per- 
spective. The harbor itself is very pretty, though none but small craft 
can approach much nearer than we then were. 

•After making an inspection of the sick, I went ashore, leaving my 
colleague in attendance till my return. Landing at a little kind of 
wharf with half-a-dozen friends, we spent a few hours here, very hotly, 
but, when in the shade, very pleasantly. As we passed through the 
city, we were agreeably surprised with the cleanliness of the streets, 
the number of neat residences, and the architectural taste Irequently 
displayed in their construction. The beautiful arrangement of some of 
the stores and warehouses, filled with eveiy variety of elegant and costly 
goods, also attracted our observation. The houses were mostly two 
stories in height, with flat roofs. They are built of brick, stone, or 
wood, and mortar, of which latter they receive an outside coating. 
They are then whitewashed, and with their neatly wrought-iron balco- 
nies over the first stoi-y, present a very pretty and bright appearance. 
There were indications of a thrifty business population, while the gen- 
eral condition of the inhabitants was so far superior to what we had 
been accustomed to at the towns along the Pacific, that we were 
almost impressed with the idea of being in a refined and elegant city. 
In our rambles, we entered one or two of their pleasant and airy Fou- 
das, and peeped into some of their beautiful ga,rdens. In these latter, 
we noticed a great variety of tropical plants and fruits, while the 
superb oleander and other sweet-scented flowers, filled the air with most 
fragrant odors. 

With many pleasing recollections of Mazatlan, in a few hours I re- 
Vurtied to duty on board. I here learned to my regret, though I had 
anticipated it, that one of our patients in the steerage, a very estimable 
man, iiad died during my absence. A cofiin was ordered on shore, and 
arrangements made for his interment on an adjacent island, called 
"Campo tSanto Americano," or Iicstin<r place of American Saints, 
where strangers who die are generally interred. With a dozen others, I 
attended the burial. We were rowed in two boats to the Island, up the 
side of which his remains were borne by lour of the company, and de- 



SENTINEL ROCKS. 83 

posited in the ground, amid the roar of billows on the rock-bound shore, 
fit requiem for the departed, for he had been master of a vessel during 
many years on the South American coast. He came up from Panama 
a few months before on board the Oregon. At the mines in Calilbrnia, 
where so many dig their graves, he was ill for many weeks, and at one 
time, I was told, had been delirious. He was conveyed to San Fran- 
cisco under the attendance of physicians, and only left his bed to be car- 
ried on board the steamer, to die if possible at home, which he expressed 
a great anxiety to do, where he had left a wile and five little children. 
But Providence had decreed otherwise, for the expectant wife and little 
ones will vainly look lor the return of the husband and lather, whose 
remains quietly repose on the lonely island of " Campo Santo," sur- 
rounded by tlie surging roar of " the wide weltering waves," in the far- 
oil' Pacific. Peaceful be his slumbers I 



CHAPTER XVII. 

San Bias. — Sentinel Rocks. — Natives. — A Man Overboard. — A Hurricane. — Sublim- 
ity of the Ocean. — A Cliaos. — AiTive at Acapulco. — A Mexican Dinner. — Tlie 
Senorita. — Carried by Natives. — Incidents. — Gulf of Tehuantepec. — A Gale. — In- 
teresting Occurrences. — Seasickness. — Deluging Rains. — A Monomaniac. 

As night approached Ave weighed anchor, and flew through the water 
for our next stopping-place, San Bias ; where we arrived about ten 
o'clock, on the following morning, and anchored three miles off the town. 
As at Mazatlan, one or two immense island rocks stood out as sentinels 
in lonely grandeur in the midst of the ocean. Here all similitude ceases, 
for the shore looked flat and vminviting in the direction of the town, 
which consisted of a few adobes and thatched huts, and was regarded as 
very unhealthy. The soil is infested with sand-flies, fleas, and other an- 
noying vermin, whose bites are excessively painful. The inhabitants 
are mostly of the lower order of Mexicans, and have a cunning, sinister, 
ami treacherous look. Many were soon along side, with their bungees 
or dug-outs filled with tropical fruits, and drove a thriving business among 
our friends on board. Several of our passengers here left us, to pursue 
their journey to V^era Cruz, by the route of Tepic, Guadalaxara, and 
Mexico. 

Continuing our way down the coast, after a detention of two hours, we 
had a pleasant run till nightfall, though the heat began to be oppres- 
sive. As we all sat on deck, enjoying the refreshing evening breeze, a 
sudden cry was raised, and the voice of the mate was heard ordering 
the engine to be stopped and boats loAvered, and again did the startling 
exclamation of " A man overboard !" send the blood almost ctu"dling to 
the heart, and arouse all our sympathies for his safety, (duick as thought 
the boats were in the water, and with lights the sailors were searching 
over the trackless waste lor the lost one. But all in vain, their search 



84 ARRIVE AT ACAPULCO. 

was unsuccessful. The Captain then ordered the steamer to be put about, 
and we slowly returned, in the hope that some one on board might be 
able to descry him from the deck. The etibrt was fruitless, lor none 
other than the All-seeing eye rested upon him, nor did the poor fellow 
ever behold the light of another day. It was soon ascertained that the 
second cook, a colored man, was missing. Incautiously sleeping near 
the side on the upper forward-deck, he was seen to roll ofi^by some per- 
sons near by, who gave the alarm. As he fell directly in front of the 
wheel-house, the pondei'ous machine causing a suction in its revolutions, 
must have drawn him under and caused instant death. Much conster- 
nation and sympathy were aroused on board by the sad catastrophe, and 
no effort was spared to save the unfortunate man — but his time had 
come. 

The morning of the 14th opened with a cloudy sky, and a sodden and 
uncomfortable atmosphere. Towards twelve o'clock the rain poured in 
torrents, driving every one from the deck. Awnings were taken down, 
wind-sails removed, and sky-lights closed, which made the heat and 
closeness of the cabin and state-rooms almost insupportable. Towards 
evening the wind blew a furious gale, and for about four hours we had 
a terrible time of it. Being in sight of land, and but seven miles off 
Acapulco, where it would have been hazardous to enter, we stood out 
to sea to avoid a wreck on the Mexican coast, the machinery being a 
good deal strained and out of repair. Had this given way in any im- 
portant part, the sails could not have preserved the ship in such a 
tempest. The gale each moment continued to increase, till at length it 
became a wild hurricane. The sublime fury of the wind and waves on 
deck, and the whistling and howling of the storm around the steam- 
pipe and through the rigging, the seasickness and constei-nation among 
many below, with the creaking and laboring of the vessel through the 
heaving tempest, the almost incessant crashing of glass m the form of 
tumblers and wine-bottles, with the waiters and crew rumiing hither 
and thither to protect different articles from further damage, or to secure 
those that had escaped, presented a scene of confusion, uproar, and 
alarm, that beggars all description. We had some hali-a-dozen old sea- 
captains among the passengers, who concurred in the opinion that they 
had never witnessed a more sudden or terrific hurricane. Some ap- 
peared to have little confidence in the ability of the steamer to hold out 
against it, dreading lest her machinery should become disabled. At 
length the fiu"y of" the storm was spent, the wind lulled, the ram con- 
tinued to fall hi torrents, the lightning flashed vividly, the thunder 
rolled, and the mountain waves sunk to a gentle swell. We stood off 
and on the land all night, with a light head of steam. The morning 
continued cloudy, rainy, and squally. Makuig for Acapulco. we cast 
anchor in the admirable little harbor about five o'clock in the afternoon. 
We here found the steamer Unicorn, belonging to the line of which the 
Oregon was one, with passengers, on her first trip from Panama, and 
the propellor Hartford, which left the States in January and had been 
wrecked off Bermuda. A British coal-vessel and a French bark were 
also lying in the port. We were soon surrounded by the natives, offering 
eggs and milk, with various fruits and vegetables for sale. 

The following morning was clear, and the sun rose with a bright 



A MEXICAN DINNER. 85 

but scorching heat. Peraiubulating the streets, I met a Spanish gentle- 
man, a merchant, from whom I had made some purchases on a former 
visit, and for whose child I had then prescribed. He expressed much 
pleasure at the unexpected meeting, and with cordial hospitality in- 
sisted on mysclt'and party of two ladies and a gentleman accompanjdng 
him home to dine. As it is not every one who has sat in the domestic 
circle at a Mexican board, I will recount, for the benefit of my readers, 
the arrangements at our repast. The table was covered with a snow- 
white cloth, and set in the veranda or large stone-paved portico, sur- 
rounding the court-yard or garden, where an abundance of tropical 
fruits grew within reach of our hands, in all the luxuriance of these hot 
countries. The family of our host who took their seats, consisted of 
himself, wife, and daughter, the latter a buxom young lady of fifteen, 
with features of a partly Aztec origin, and a deep-copper complexion, 
tlerived from the mother. Our first course consisted of vermicelli soup. 
This was followed by boiled fresh beef, and an immense dish containing 
a variety of vegetables, such as roasted hominy, nubbins of fresh corn, 
fried bananas, boiled squash and pumpkins, and others with whose 
names I was not familiar. Next came beef-a-la-mode, tortillas, and 
claret. Then a kind of baked pudding, consisting of soft-boiled rice 
beaten with eggs and milk, underneath which was a layer of finely 
chopped meat, well-flavored. Preserved cocoa and pi-eserved limes 
completed the dinner. Several servants were in attendance, who 
changed the plates and knives and forks at each course. 

On rising from the table at the conclusion of our repast, our friend's 
daughter manifested much admiration for the two ladies. She seemed 
deeply interested h\ their costume, amusing herself by measuring them 
across the shoulders, around the waist, the foot, the ankle, &c. On 
being interrogated whether she preferred Americans or Mexicans, she 
quickly replied, " Mexicario Malo, Americano bueno, grande!" 

Parting from our kind friends, we adjourned to the cathedral, and 
after viewing the interior, and finding little to interest in its rude con- 
struction, w^e walked to the beach, and were each carried in the arms 
of a native through the surf into the boat, and rowed on board. We all 
agreed that the day had been decidedly a pleasant one, so far as its social 
enjoyment was concerned, but excessively hot. 

At twelve o'clock on the following day, we weighed anchor, and 
bade adieu to Acapulco. As we were rounding-to to leave the harbor, 
one of the steerage passengers in the height of exuberant feeling, caused 
by over indulgence in the killing aquardiente of Acapulco, leaped over- 
board, and unable to swim must have inevitably been drowned, had 
not the numerous canoes and boat-loads of natives along side, hurried to 
his aid. It was the display of" the folly of a drunken man. Another, 
too much intoxicated to care for any thing, -was urged to come on board 
at the time of starting. Persuasion was unavailing, and the poor fool 
was left. By the morrow he probably realized to its full extent, the 
awkward situation to which his brutal vice had reduced him, that of 
being left penniless and friendless, a stranger in a strange land. 

The following morning was lawering and rainy, with a fresh breeze 
and high sea. Crossing the Gulf of Tehuantepec, ever famous for its 
storms and strong currents, and much dreaded by tiie early navigators, 



86 A MONOMANIAC. 

the sea continued to rise, and dark-swelling waves would heave our 
noble ship almost upon her side. By night, which set in with black, por- 
tentous-looking clouds, the breeze had increased to a gale, and the 
mighty billows thumped and lashed her sides with terrible energy, 
causing every timber within her to strain and creak with the furious 
power of the element on which she floated. Much seasickness occur- 
red, and great was the crashing of china, glass, and crockery. Often 
throughout the night, we would suddenly be aroused by some deafening 
crash, frequently caused by a case of wine leaping from a state-room 
shelf, which some unlucky wight had laid in at Acapulco and placed 
there. Though secure in a calm sea, it was ever ready to pour out its 
juicy contents, when so unceremoniously and rudely tapped. Great 
was the terror of some, and much the amusement of others, which 
these interesting occurrences called forth. 

The gale had not abated by morning, and the waves continued to 
roll along in mountain majesty. Our steamer, though stamped as a 
superior, stifl', and steady sea-boat, was here compelled to yield, to 
bound, to plunge, to tremble, to " reel and topple like a drunken man." 
Many rueful countenances were disclosed, the consequence of a sleepless 
night and — sick stomach ! Numerous and dismal were the com- 
plaints made. I was fblloAved, headed, cornered, and annoyed at every 
turn. Having more serious cases on hand, my patience was not a little 
tried in being delayed to listen to the lugubrious accounts of a sickness, 
which a calm sea alone would at once remove. I endeavored however 
to sympathize in their dolorous griefii as much as possible. 

By the morning of the following day, a change occurred. The sun 
arose with a brilliant warmth, and the waves were quieted to a gentle 
swell. We had passed Tehuantepec, and now over a comparatively 
smooth sea were speeding the way for Panama. 

This did not continue long, for by twelve o'clock the sky was over- 
cast, and for the next two days deluging rains poured down, as though 
the flood-gates of heaven were opened. Being almost constantly en- 
gaged in attendance on the sick, many of whom had recovered or were 
convalescent, I had little time to devote to other matters, and many 
interesting points of land escaped my observation which I otherwise 
should have noticed. Among those who gave me most trouble, was a 
young man in tolerably good bodily health, but a monomaniac, and 
fully impressed with the idea that he would die at sea. So strongly 
had this hallucination taken possession of his mind, that no argument 
or reasoning could dissipate it. Often was I called in the middle of 
the night to visit him, when he would request me to write his will as 
he could not live till morning, or beg that I would entreat the captain 
not to throw him overboard, but to have him buried at Panama. On 
all other subjects he was perfectly rational. I pitied the poor fellow, 
and did all in my power to ovei-come this singular propension of his 
mind. He had been ill in California, and became alarmed from wit- 
nessing the sickness on board. He ofiered me a thousand dollars if I 
would see him safely over the Isthmus. I declined his money, but 
told him we would yet meet in New-York. He laughed incredulously 
at this, but lived not only to cross the Isthmus on a mule, but to laugh 
in New York at his folly on the Pacific. 



PANAMA IN THE WET SEASON. 87 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Bay of Panama. — Beautiful Scene. — Disembarkation. — Panama in the Wet Season. 
Engage Mules. — Trouble with the Natives. — Start across the Istluuus. — Rainy- 
Season. — Execrable Passages. — Dark Ravines. — Roniautic Defiles. — Mountain 
Torrents. — Miry Beds. — Cargodores. — A (xuard. — A Night on the Isthmus. — Ar- 
rive at Cruces. — New Granadian Honesty. — Justice. — Punishment. — Start for 
Chagres. — River in the Rainy Season. — Gorgona. — Lazy Boatmen. — Arrive at 
Chagres. — A Storm. — The Emjiire City. — Comfortable Accouuuodatious. — Rail- 
road across the Isthmus. 

On the 23d we entered the Bay of Panama, and gUded along over a 
pleasant sea. As evening approached, the sun set gloriously behind 
the lol'ty liills of the " Pearl Islands," and as night drew on the moon 
shone brilliantly through the clear transparent atiriosphere. The air 
was soft and balmy. It was a calm and beautiful scene. 

We cast anchor about nine o'clock, and fired a gun which soon 
brought numerous bungees along side. The clattering tongues of the 
natives, the confusion of preparing the luggage ibr departure on the fol- 
lowing morning, and, shall I say, the carousing on board, drove sleep 

from all eyes. Risuig early, I went ashore, and with M engaged 

a private apartment, intending to take our meals at a restaurant near 
by, several of which, conducted mostly by Yankees, were in active 
operation. 

Panama looked the same as formerly, except that the streets gave in- 
dications of recent washings from heavy rains. Mud, steam, and heat 
prevailed, though not to the same extent as I had anticipated. The 
rainy season was not yet over, several showers occurring throughout 
the day. 

Finding that mules Avere scarce, and that owing to the demand 
prices had advanced, \^'e were not able at once to secure any. The 
best were reserved for the mails, and the large amount of gold dust we 
had on board. We at length succeeded in obtaining a sulRcient number 
for our purposes, stipulating that they should be at the door of our 
lodgings by live o'clock on the following morning. But who that has 
bargained with these slothful and dilatory people, ever knew them to 
adhere to a contract ? The morning came, but so did not our mules, 
and running hither and thither to find our man, we eventually learned 
that those designed lor our use Avere given to higher bidders, who 
were now far ofi'on their way to Cruces. By dint of threats and a little 
rough usage, we compelled him to procure others at a slight advance, 
and by twelve o'clock we started forward, passing through the gate at 
at which we entered, and went on our way rejoicing. 

The day was cloudy, with slight showers, but as these were light, the 
smi's being obscured was rather favorable than otherwi.se. In passing 
through the suburbs, a mucJuicho oflered to sell me a little wooden cage 
containing two beautiful birds, called by the natives bing-bing and sago, 



88 NEW GRANADIAN HONESTY. 

for dos pesos. These I purchased and carried across the Isthmus, but 
both escaped before I reached Chagres. 

The way was pleasant enough, till we came to the point where the 
path diverges to Cruces and Gorgona. Taking the former, the other 
during the rainy season being deemed impassable, we soon came to deep 
beds of mud, gully-holes, and ravines, similar to what we had encoun- 
tered on our way over, except that they were much more extensive, con- 
stituting the greater part of the route. These passes were often execra- 
ble. They had been once paved, the enormous stones used for that pur- 
pose lying loosely about and almost blocking the way. Between these, 
the cautious mules would step, to the no small danger of their legs and 
the rider's neck. In other parts the surface is bare, with steps or holes 
worn in the sandstone rock, down or up which the animals would slide 
or climb. In many places these ravines are so dark, gloomy, and soli- 
tary, with the mass of foUage that incloses them overhead, that it is 
pleasant to emerge into the sunlight, even if the way conducts through 
a swamp or directly in the bed of the mountain torrents, which it fre- 
quently does for miles. In passing over one of these miry beds, my mule 
fell backward, but without beuig thrown 1 instantly recovered him, no 
other harm accruing, (I acknowledge the "■soft impeachment,") save a 
thorough bedabbling with mud. I saw a mule with a mail-bag and a 
native on his back, plump heels over head into one of these soft places. 
It was an amusing sight, and they cut a sorry figure. There are many 
beautiful and romantic defiles, besides many "execrable passages" on 
the Cruces road, but I did not find it so mountainous as the Gorgona 
route. We met and passed many of the natives, tottering under the 
enormous weights fastened to their shoulders, and reeking with perspira- 
tion, on the Avay with cargo, either to Panama or Cruces. A drove of 
twenty mules passed us at one place, laden with little boxes of specie. 
They were driven by the natives, and about half a mile behind them 
walked a diminutive Indian soldier, with an enormous rusty flint-lock 
musket, that looked as if it never had been used, resting in the hollow 
of his arm. He was the guard to the escort. 

"We stopped once through the day to lunch, and when night came on 
sought refuge under a shed. Here, in a half-sitting posture, leaning 
against the trunks, and among the interesting natives, we slept. In 
the night it rained a deluge, and as the head and shoulders of many 
were all that could be squeezed under the thatched roof, some were well- 
drenched. 

Starthig forward early on the following morning, and toiling over the 
steep passes, among the rocky defiles, through the water-courses, and 
along the miry way, with an occasional refreshing shower, we reached 
Cruces about two o'clock. This is a miserable, muddy little place of 
reed-built and palm-thatched huts, similar to other towns on the Isth- 
mus. In one of these we deposited our luggage, swung hammocks, and 
prepared to pass the night, after considerable difficulty hi obtaining 
wherewith to satisfy the cravings of nature. 

There were few canoes here fit to transport our party to Chagres. 
We were therefore compelled to remain for several days, and await their 
arrival from below. In the mean time we had an example ot New 
Granadian honesty, justice, and punishment. 



LAZY BOATMEN. 89 

A party of four gentlemen had stipulated with a person in Panama, 
to convey their luggage to Cruces. Anxious to get over, and supposing 
it would cousume two days if tliey accompanied their trunks, they en- 
tered into a written agreement with this individual and gave thein into 
his charge. Two of the party had left for Chagres, the others vainly 
awaiting the arrival of their luggage. Passing through the town with 
one of these gentleman, we espied the individual in whose charge they 
were placed, and immediately took him before the Alcalde. The man 
stoutly denied any knowledge of the trunks. Having his signature, he 
was made to rewrite it, which compared with the original, at once con- 
victed him, and he confessed that the trunks were still in Panama, he 
having come over to see that the owners had gone down the river, be- 
fore returmng to pilfer their contents. He was now made to wi'ite an 
order for them, with which a man was sent to Panama, while the thief 
was condemned to the stocks. We saw him there under the large shed, 
which constitutes the jail, along with half-a-dozen others in the same 
predicament, smoking their segars with the most perfect nonchalance. 
The trunks, however, were never restored. One of them contained 
nearly a thousand dollars in gold dust and valuable papers, but its owner 
was too unwell to return to Panama and attempt its recovery. 

Canoes having arrived from Chagres, and fearful of being left by the 
steamer there, I determined no longer to await the movements of those 
whose luggage had not arrived ; I therefore engaged one with two other 
gentlemen, and on the afternoon of the 28th of October we started for 
Chagres, glad to escape the mud and filth of the town. Thousands of 
parrots and paroquets were flying through the air, whose chattering and 
screams we could only compare to that of the natives themselves. We 
noticed the same profuse verdure as formerly, the same beautiful vines 
clinging to the boughs of trees and sweeping the surface of the water, 
and the same redolence in the air. The river was more turbulent from 
recent rains, was swollen, and the water not so clear as when we passed 
up. A shower soon drove us mto our little den, where we kept tolerably 
dry. 

Arriving at Gorgona about nightfall, our boatmen insisted on stopping, 
promising to be ready to start in a short time. Several hours elapsed, 
and still they came not, and on going in pursuit of them. I found the 
worthless pack, seated in a circle on the ground-floor of one of the huts, 
deeply absorbed at a game of cards. It was only by offering them a 
bribe, that we could induce them to proceed. We had gone but a few 
miles, before we rmi on a sand-bar, and here another detention of several 
hours occurred. The " patrone" and his men were at once in the 
water, and worked most indefatigably before we were extricated. Float- 
ing with the current, our men had little more to do than keep the 
canoe in the channel. With nothing to disturb the quiet around, the 
monotonous ripple of the water soon lulled us to sleep, from Avhich we 
awoke to find ourselves stationary at the shore, our boatmen gone, and 
surrounded by about twenty canoes that had stopped hei'e on their way 
up. Calling for the " patrone," we threatened him with a forfeiture not 
only of his bribe, but the whole passage-money, unless he instantly got 
under way. This had the desired effect, and amid almost continual 
rain on the following day, we floated down the stream. It was nearly 



90 COFFEE PLANTATIONS. 

night when the turrets of San Lorenzo carne into view. Urging our 
dilatory rowers to all their speed, we quickly shot into the little cove on 
which the dismal-looking town of Chagres stands. The surf ran high, 
the air was darkened with heavy clouds, quick and vivid flashes of 
lightning gleamed through the sky, the thunder rolled, the rain poured 
in torrents. Noticing two steamers in the ofling, we were told by our 
consul, Mr. Gelston, that he feared we were too late, as both the vessels, 
the Empire City and British Steamer Tay, were on the point of depar- 
ture. Observing a boat shoot through the channel at the base of the 
castle, we hailed her, and found she belonged to the Empire City, 
(iuickly putting our trunks on board, we were rowed out, but it was 
with some difficulty we managed to get on the steps at her side, owing 
to the heavy swell. Another boat followed us with females on board, 
who had crossed from Panama without accident. It was pleasant to 
reflect that we were now over all the difficulties and delays of the Isth- 
mus, and were comfortably arranged on a magnificent ship in the At- 
lantic, fitted with all the luxuries and accommodations of a llrst-class 
hotel. I was not long in obtaining a glass of ice- water, and what a 
luxury did it prove ! 

A completion of the contemplated railroad across the Isthmus, will 
relieve travelers from all the dangers and annoyances to which they are 
now subjected by this route, and as they sit in the comfortably-cushioned 
cars, and are whirled over in an hour or two, they will hardly be able to 
conceive of the trials and difficulties the pioneer travelers had to endure. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



Leave Chagi-es. — Port Royal. — Sunken Ruins. — Kingston. — Coffee Plantations. — 
\'icious Blacks. — " We colored population." — The City. — Its Churches. — Railroad. 
— Curiosity Shops. — CUniate. — Markets. — Santa Anna. — Marmoset. — Return on 
board. — Leave Jamaica. — Arrive in New York. — Home. 

About nine o'clock, with the mail on board, we started forward across 
the Gulf of Darien, and soon entered on the short swell of the Car- 
ribean Sea, and after a pleasant run of two days and a half we entered 
the harbor of Port Royal, opposite the Government buildings. They 
stand at the extreme point of a narrow peninsula, and about three miles 
distant by water from the city of Kingston. 

Port Royal was once a place of considerable importance, but destroyed 
by an earthquake in the latter part of the seventeenth century, nothing 
remains to tell oi' the site of the proud city, but this strip of land and the 
water that floats over its sunken ruins. 

Kingston is situated on a low, sandy beach, backed by the high moun- 
tains of Jamaica. These are covered with coffee plantations, which 
have greatly fallen into decay since the emancipation act. I would ad- 
vise ail lavorable to the immediate abolition of slavery, to visit the 



SANTA ANNA. 91 

island of Jamaica, and particularly Kingston. Containing about 35,000, 
the greater part of the inhabitants are blacks, ami of the most insolent 
and vicious character. Here, dressed in the garb of the British soldier, 
they enjoy freedom in perfection. 

Perambulating the streets, I was greatly annoyed with the importuni- 
ties of the "coloi'ed popidation," either in the Ibrm of beggars, or "to 
show Massa California where he can buy any thing in de great city of 
Kingston." They suppose that if a man has been to Caliibrnia, he has 
ot" course returned with a gold mine in his pocket. Acting upon this 
j)rinciple, the rascals take care to charge well for any httle service or 
information required of them. 

Taking one of the many dilapidated hacks that were most indus- 
triously urged upon me, I drove through some of the principal streets, 
the houses of which I found pretty much on a par with my vehicle. 
Some of them in other parts presented a very elegant and tasteful ap- 
pearance, surrounded by gardens containing flowers, vines, and trees. 
Many beautiful residences are seen a short distance from the city. 
Having but a few hours to remain on shore, I desired my sable guide to 
drive to every place of interest with which he was acquainted, in the 
shortest possible time. Obeying my wish, he pointed out the military 
barracks, theatre, and several churches of the Episcopal, Catholic, and 
Methodist denominations, all near each other, and built around a vacant 
space, or common, in the upper part of the city. Clustered around the 
square, though most incongruously, they presented a very pretty appear- 
ance. Continuing my ride, we came opposite to the railway station, a 
fine brick edifice. The road conducts to Spanish Town, distant some 
fifteen miles in the interior, and the capital of the island. Stopping at 
some of the elegant-looking variety stoi'es which abound in Kingston, I 
was not a little surprised with the rich fabrics and endless curiosities 
they disclosed, but somewhat perplexed at the pertinacity their owners 
occasionally evinced to force sales, nolens vulens. 

The climate of Kingston is pleasant, for though the sun was hot, it 
was not oppressive, and is generally considered remarkably healthy. 
The interior is represented as a Paradise. The streets were very dusty, 
with narrow sidewalks, and the houses built of dingy brick. The mar- 
kets were stocked with all kinds of vegetables and tropical fruits. The 
exiled Santa Anna has here taken up his abode within a short distance 
of the city. Aware that he was not fond of receiving visits from Amer- 
icans, and particularly those returning from a territory so recently 
wrested from his country, I declined Sambo's ofier of driving me thither, 
for as I had purchased a monkey,'* I cared not to see the lion. 

* I had bought a beautiful little animal of the monkey trihe, a Marmoset, recently 
caught near Bogota in New Granada, which I vahied as a rare specimen of its class. 
Not much larger than one's hand, with long, busliy wliite hair standing out from a 
most diminutive black face, it had all the tricks and playfulness of the monkey, 
without his vicious propensities, and was a most interesting and attractive little 
animal. He fed on fruits and vegetables. "When he would see me approaching, he 
would wliistle with the clear, soft, and varied notes of an accomplished mocldng- 
bird. I kept him till I airived at New York, when finding it necessary to leave 
him on board for twentj'-four hours, I placed liim in charge of a female employed on 
the steamer, who neglected my particular request to attend to him, imd he perished 
from cold. 



92 HOME. 

Alighting from my crazy vehicle at the upper landing, I found several 
of my friends waiting to be conveyed on board. Engaging a boat from 
among a dozen, the superior merits of each of which, were most loudly 
extolled by their dusky owners, in about an hour and a half we came 
along side the steamer in a torrent of rain. 

Not having completed our supply of coal till the following day, and 
being unable to obtain correct information as to the time of our departure, 
I did not venture again on shore. It was night however before we got 
under way, and bade adieu to Kingston. 

Little of interest occurred from this time to the end of our voyage. 
We saw three water-spouts, cruised along the coast of San Domingo, 
steamed through the "Windward Passage," and with much rain, a high 
sea, and head-winds, rolled on our course for New York, where we 
arrived on the morning of Sunday the 1 1th of November, having made 
our run from Chagres in the space of nine days. 

Leaving my reader among the Gothamites, I hasten on to the Monu- 
mental City. 



THE END, 



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